BillFitzmaurice.info

So I finally got to the point where I can get started on the pair of TAT for my sound bike project...
In my neighborhood there is a place where you can borrow a fairly equipped wood working shop. All good news for me as I don't have a garage or a shed in the back yard where I can make my projects. Therefore my speaker interest has been restricted to smaller BT/Chromecast Audio based mini or medium sized speakers.
But here goes! First little time lapse is splitting the sheets into smaller strips which makes it easier to handle. I used the circular saw, as the table saw in the shop couldn't take the width of the entire sheets. Having converted the measurements in inches to millimeters, I used an online service to make the cut skeet. I will do all the individual panels with 90 degree cuts, on the maximum dimension, and thereafter do the angles on each panel.
It may prove to be a difficult way to proceed... I will definitely be wiser as I go along.
https://youtu.be/ipE-ZGeKjEI

I had hoped that I could transfer the photos taken with my phone directly to the forum, but the files are too big. Could an auto compress feature be a future possibility..?

Status after 3 days of wood working, and making sawdust...

Must say that all the advice regarding different tools and supports for making everything square, has come in very handy! I have never made cabinets this complex with this accuracy..!!
Thanks!

It's looking good, though, I would have test fitted the driver and drilled pilot holes in the baffle first.

If you don't center your driver correctly, you might find it fowling during high excursion.

Holes have been marked during test fitting of driver. No pilot holes have been drilled yet, so you might have a point. Think I can get the driver centered OK though.
Was thinking of using threaded inserts, but think I have read some where on the forum that they are not the best solution... (?) But once the driver is placed on the baffel, why should it be removed?
I am thinking about making a different (smaller) access hole in the sides, as my driver has a some what smaller magnet than the specified types. Of course it is a trade off with accessibility to the driver.

Threaded inserts would be very hard to install at this point and are only really suitable to the smaller drivers. I've used them before and they work fine but T-Nuts are better even if they are a pain to get straight.

The advantage of the blocks and screws is that you are guaranteed no air leaks as long as your screws aren't too long.

As for removing drivers, you will if you end up blowing it! Also, the nuts/screws can work loose over time.

If you haven't drilled the pilot holes, I suggested making a template that you sit in the baffle that aligns the driver position and allows you to drill guided holes into the baffle. So you test fit the driver central to the template and transfer the guide holes to your baffle. If one of your holes is slightly off it can quickly turn into an air leak nightmare. T-Nuts are quite forgiving from this perspective as you can epoxy the threads and have a slightly larger drill hole for a bit of play with the bolts holding the driver down.

Chris_Allen wrote:As for removing drivers, you will if you end up blowing it!

Check! Duly noted, with thanks!

Got to the point where the last side is going on. I am still amazed how accurate the box is when following the instruction! Totally square! Very few things to sand down or correct with the router.
Must admit that I have miscalculated the process of fitting the driver with only one access hole. I am currently trying to figure out a way to fit the driver from one side only, and I might have to make some metal "thingy" to get to the goal there. More on that later..

Isn't she pretty?

Having read all (or probably most) of the praises of PL glue, I had to try to use the EU version of this excellent product. In a tread I found a link to an Ebay seller who had a product which should be like the PL...

I am sad to report that this glue does not match the alleged properties of PL. It does not harden like PL, and worst of all it does not have the "solidness" of the PL glue.
On the good note it sets quite fast, and as it comes in a package ready for a caulking gun, it is easier to apply. But I could probably have saved a few bucks, and quite some time on delivery if I had chosen a Bostik PU glue...

A quick question: Do I need to dampen the rear chamber of the TAT?

Some fine work there.

If I remember correctly, none of the sealed chambers have dampening. What's the point? In a ported rear chamber you want to stop those nasty frequencies escaping, so added dampening is a requirement.

With direct radiator subs there's also the matter of damping above bandwidth harmonics that otherwise could reflect back to the cone, causing higher THD. In a folded horn if that happens those harmonics are filtered out by the bends in the horn, so no damping required.

Thanks guys!

Sound bike?
Really keen to see pics of the bike - I'm guessing it's a dutch trike to carry subs that big

Padde298 wrote:Having read all (or probably most) of the praises of PL glue, I had to try to use the EU version of this excellent product. In a tread I found a link to an Ebay seller who had a product which should be like the PL...

I am sad to report that this glue does not match the alleged properties of PL. It does not harden like PL, and worst of all it does not have the "solidness" of the PL glue.
On the good note it sets quite fast, and as it comes in a package ready for a caulking gun, it is easier to apply. But I could probably have saved a few bucks, and quite some time on delivery if I had chosen a Bostik PU glue...

I used this brand for all 9 of my BFM designs though it was in a big squeezy bottle rather than the caulking gun option. I wonder if they differ in formula??

Never had any issues with it personally!

*edit: I've used both the 30 minute and quick drying 10 minute versions (which is pinkish).