BillFitzmaurice.info

Here goes...
I received my Lab12 driver today. The sub is beautiful. I purchased some lumber and will begin building some jigs and cutting fixtures tomorrow.

Enjoy the build!

Just looking at that sub makes my back hurt.

Chris_Allen wrote:Just looking at that sub makes my back hurt.

Hey now! Let them learn the hard way like we all have. Isn't that part of the reason we end up building more and more?

guide rail check, i have been using guide rails for years now always just clamped a straight edge to the work piece, it took a long time to properly align up the rail for a perfect cut, this way makes it so quick and easy. I have never used PL before, i have always used liquid nail or industrial wood glue, so far i like the way the PL seems to be working out, i made sure to pick up a large-ish supply of shop towels to protect my self.

ACUA wrote: i made sure to pick up a large-ish supply of shop towels to protect my self.

Use these.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-mil-nitr ... 68497.html

You'll learn how much PL to put down with minimal squeeze out and less mess as you go.

ripped the major sections at 23", cut and drew in rough layout,

ACUA wrote: so far i like the way the PL seems to be working out, i made sure to pick up a large-ish supply of shop towels to protect my self.

The trick to a nice PL joint is to not smear it around or wipe it with a towel. Do a glue up and then let the squeeze out be. In about 4-5 hours, depending on your temp and humidity, come back and the PL should be mostly set-up but still soft enough to scrape away with a 2" putty knife or other flexible blade. If you get your timing on the set-up time just right you can make a nice clean joint; scrape too soon and it still smears around, wait too long and scraping it is like chipping concrete. Here is a before and after photo:




+1 to the blue gloves, wear them religiously even after you are done gluing up, your hands will find the wet glue no matter how careful you are. If you don't, your hands will look like this for a week:


Couple other tips: after you lay the bead, release the pressure on the gun by pressing the catch with your thumb and lay the nozzle on a piece of cardboard or scrap wood as some PL will squeeze out the nozzle.

i must admit that i have some reservations about using basic 5-ply 15/32" plywood, i always used heavy MDF 3/4" for its density which helped against sounding tinny... i am using a 1/4" round over for the internal edges, it tends to give me piece of mind concerning potential turbulence. i made some assembly jigs and located some wax paper, I installed the first panel of the enclosure. I drilled a hole in the section of the side panel that becomes the window, i am adamant about using a flush trim router to cut the windows out of the sides after the main internal walls for the driver chamber are secured. I will be making new doors to seal the driver chamber. i cant follow the plans exactly

ACUA wrote:i must admit that i have some reservations about using basic 5-ply 15/32" plywood, i always used heavy MDF 3/4" for its density which helped against sounding tinny... i am using a 1/4" round over for the internal edges, it tends to give me piece of mind concerning potential turbulence.

The braces are what make the cabinet rigid. Make sure you use the recommended amount. While the roundover doesn't hurt anything, it doesn't have any benefit either. In a port, the high air velocities can make turbulence, but in a horn there is no airflow. It is a pressure wave that propagates through the horn, the air more or less stays still.

sets jigs and installed second panel, cut panel 3 and poked a hole for the drivers to breath through, made a router jig to poke the right size hole!!!!

at first i thought hey i will use this ring as a template for my driver cut out. i will be clever and secure it like this, then when i was cutting it went bbbbbvvvvvttttt so i made a proper router jig and got back to business...

ACUA wrote: i am using a 1/4" round over for the internal edges, it tends to give me piece of mind concerning potential turbulence.

That will have absolutely no effect below roughly 10kHz.

i cant follow the plans exactly

Then you might as well not bother building it at all.

I am not having the luck i was hoping too with this PL. seems to take forever to set up. I made a 90degree jig and used PL to join the two pieces and three days later as i was pulling the jig off the work piece the glued joint came apart. the PL looked like puddy on the inside like it had not fully cured. i have never had to wait that long with wood glue or liquid nail, i have had great luck with liquid nail for projects similar to this one have any of you tried it? the wax paper does not pull off of the PL very well. it will take some tinkering to get what i want out of it.

well third panel on and curing. i have my reservations about the PL or my ability to use it properly!!!!

Post a picture of the PL that you are using.......what you are describing is not at all the way it is supposed to cure. Joints are rockhard if left overnight. Plus, you should be using fasteners to hold the panels in place while the glue cures.