BillFitzmaurice.info

Hey Y'all,
Here's my build thread for one 24" THTLP from a flat pack from speakerhardware.com. I'm a beginner when it comes to workworking. I decided to go with the flat pack for that reason. I've had a surge of motivation and energy for tasks and projects around the house this spring/summer and finally ordered the flat pack once I had a clean garage and work bench to actually assemble it! The one similar project I did a few years ago was to assemble a DTS10 sub kit from Danley. That went swimmingly and the beast is making some wicked LFE in my basement HT. Now I want horn loaded bass to mate with my Klipschorns in the living room.

Page 8 of the newer THTLP plans explains how to attach the driver screw retention blocks to the baffle (panel 6). "...put adhesive on a block, clamp it in place, drive a screw through the baffle pilot hole to hold the block until the adhesive cures..."

I searched the site for info about the retention blocks and discovered that it's best to use solid wood rather than ply, but, how the heck do I clamp the block and drive a screw through the pilot hole into it AT THE SAME TIME?

The clamp is blocking any access to the pilot hole

MA043HA wrote:"
I searched the site for info about the retention blocks and discovered that it's best to use solid wood rather than ply,

-1. Solid wood will split. Plywood won't.

The clamp is blocking any access to the pilot hole

Use a smaller clamp. For instance:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2-in-C ... /203735823

Thanks Bill. You saved my baffle panel. I was able to chisel off the glued solid oak blocks I made before the PL dried. I'll replace them with some of the same ply as the rest of the cab using SMALL clamps and screws.

Given how critical it is that these blocks not come loose, should I drive 3/4" or 1" screws into them on either side of the pilot hole for insurance?

They're not going anywhere once the adhesive sets. Plus once the driver's installed there will be a screw through them as well.

Glue up a scrap with PL and try to break it loose.

LelandCrooks wrote:Glue up a scrap with PL and try to break it loose.

Did that............ruined my scrap dammit!!!

Started a new job last week and kinda forgot about this build thread but not about the build Here are a few pictures from the almost complete THTLP.

The second side fits on pretty good although the screw pilot holes will mostly have to be redone. The plans say "...using clamps and/or plywood jigs to square the assembly to the side." It seems to fit squarely on except for a 3/8" discrepancy in one corner at the end near the driver. What to do about that?

Suggestions?

Generally this happens when something is slightly twisted. Warped panel usually, twisting the assembly. It throws the last panel out. On a cab this long it's magnified. It's not an easy fix. 6ft long bar clamps maybe. But you run the risk of warping the whole cab so it does not sit flat. Square it up at the back side, pulling it into alignment as far as you can. Then trim the front. It won't be that noticeable.

LelandCrooks wrote:Generally this happens when something is slightly twisted. Warped panel usually, twisting the assembly. It throws the last panel out. On a cab this long it's magnified. It's not an easy fix. 6ft long bar clamps maybe. But you run the risk of warping the whole cab so it does not sit flat. Square it up at the back side, pulling it into alignment as far as you can. Then trim the front. It won't be that noticeable.

Being the woodworking, DIY speaker building noob that I am, I've been following the nicely illustrated plans so far in terms of "squaring" and using jigs to guide and flatten panels "into alignment". Short of buying some 6 foot bar clamps I realize I have no idea how to "square it up" and pull it "into alignment". I need some more detailed help here

Make an extender in which you hook the end of a clamp in on one end, and another clamp on the other end to make a long clamp. With one end/side of the last panel fastened down, pull the side and the panel into alignment by putting a clamp on the fastened end and the other clamp end on the upright panel.