BillFitzmaurice.info

Hey guys, first i'll just add im a virgin builder so don't be too hard on me so ive just started my Tuba 18. Hopefully it wont take me too long, as im abit tied up with work and family and the general stuff. But anyways ill keep the updates coming as it happens. Constructive criticism welcome Heres this arvos start, lines look abit funny as i started with pen, but the found my pencil!

http://s710.photobucket.com/user/motogp ... sort=3&o=0

Also a quick stupid question. How much would it affect the sound if i took the driver cable out the back instead of the side? The reason being is that extra 100mm ive got at the back is for a plate amp. (the amp wont be built into the internal space)

Hi and welcome to the forum.

It doesn't matter where the cable comes out as long as there are no air leaks.

Also, it might be advisable to build your plate amp in a separate box. This gives you more flexibility and it will only take up 12mm more space for the end panel.

Chris_Allen wrote:Hi and welcome to the forum.

It doesn't matter where the cable comes out as long as there are no air leaks.

Also, it might be advisable to build your plate amp in a separate box. This gives you more flexibility and it will only take up 12mm more space for the end panel.

+1 Most new people reckon the plate amp needs to be mounted on the speaker cab. The reason we say no is easy: you want the amp as close to the source as possible, but the sub needs to go where it sounds best, and gives the best in-room response. They are almost always not the same place.

No worries. I was just thinking itd be abit easier rather than make a separate box for amp and find a place to put it (my office space is rather cluttered with music gear and lots of cords etc) also itd be easier to transport. if i was to still mount it on the sub and take the cable through to the back would you suggest sealing the hole with adhesive or using a connection box.

brown18 wrote:No worries. I was just thinking itd be abit easier rather than make a separate box for amp and find a place to put it (my office space is rather cluttered with music gear and lots of cords etc) also itd be easier to transport. if i was to still mount it on the sub and take the cable through to the back would you suggest sealing the hole with adhesive or using a connection box.

How you make the connections doesn't matter. As long as the horn path is air-tight.

FTR, putting the amp in the cab can make for connection nightmares. Ground-loop hum being top of the list. Build yourself a handsome cabinet for the plate amp, and keep it close to the main amp/receiver. You want all of the electronics plugged into the AC mains at the same spot.

Keep it up. We want reviews soon.

BTW. You motard race?

jimbo7 wrote:Keep it up. We want reviews soon.

BTW. You motard race?

Yea use to. Getting back on a gsxr 600 hopefully soon, been missing the sport bikes

Sorry there hasn't been much progress did some cutting today and got a few of the panels done. Still waiting on my Dayton Audio driver to arrive from parts express. Also waiting to hear back from a NZ building supply business regarding loctite PU adhesive. I am trying to get hold of Loctite MP5000, which is the same formula as PL premium. Haven't really looked at other alternatives, as thought id try get the tried and trusted first. I assure you this project will be on its way soon, as id like to have a go at some T30s afterwards

Finally had a week of progress, let me know what you think. http://s710.photobucket.com/user/motogp ... t=3&page=1

Looks good! It won't be long now.

From what I can see, you have some decent PL squeeze-out, so, that is good.

Tom Smit wrote:From what I can see, you have some decent PL squeeze-out, so, that is good.

Remember the days when you talked about your main squeeze......and it had nothing to do with glue?

LOL!