BillFitzmaurice.info

I have read many in older posts claim to not be able to do a good job cutting with a circular saw. Here is what you do to make a panel crosscut/rip jig for a circular saw. Rip one piece of 1/2" ply to 5", then another of the same thickness, rip to 10&1/2". Both should be 12" longer than any length cut your going to do. I like having a 5 footer and a 8 footer. Screw and glue the 2 pieces together flush along one long edge. If you have access to a table saw, but not at home, it's best to use that for this. Alternatively you can use the factory edges of a sheet at the staggered edges, with the rough cuts on the flush edge. Notice the pencil line along the right edge, this is the free area that the saw's motor does not go into, and is used to denote the clamping area. It winds up looking like this



After you have screwed and glued the jig together, use the circular saw you're going to be using with the jig ( this is important because different circular saws have differing shoe (table) widths), and run it tight to the upper plywood piece to cut the lower (wider) piece to the table width of the saw. Your jig is done.

Now to use it, mark the cut you're going to make, paying attention to which side of the mark you're going to need to cut:



Now place the leading edge of the jig on that mark, the saw will cut exactly the leading edge of the jig. Pay attention to which side of the mark to cut, and use a framing square to square the jig to the piece.



Now clamp the jig to the piece:



Now run the saw's table edge along the upper guide, making sure to keep pressure to keep the saw's table tight to the fence.




You have just made an absolutely perfect cut that would rival any table saw, and is easier than passing a large sheet of ply through a table saw.

heavybdrums wrote:I have read many in older posts claim to not be able to do a good job cutting with a circular saw.

You pretty much summed up Bill's Panel Jig plans. No big deal, but give the guy some credit too! (And maybe $1.95. It's worth it.)

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/PanelJig.html

jimbo7 wrote:

heavybdrums wrote:I have read many in older posts claim to not be able to do a good job cutting with a circular saw.

You pretty much summed up Bill's Panel Jig plans. No big deal, but give the guy some credit too! (And maybe $1.95. It's worth it.)

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/PanelJig.html

Nope ...The Panel jig is for a table saw, this jig works without table saw. The panel jig of Bill Fits's is for cutting compound angles on a table saw, this one only makes 90deg straight cuts. If it's the circular saw sled that you refer to, this is a better design due to the width of the 2 pieces leaving room to clamp it to the work and allows the saw's motor to miss the clamps. Also this design allows the wider portion of the saw's foot to rest on the jig, making for more accurate cuts. I take no credit for engineering this jig it is a commonly used jug from old furniture makers/carpenters. Also I own ALL of the plans on cd.

Instructions on how to make a circular saw sled are on page 14 of the Panel Jig plans. I very rarely clamp mine in place, I have pilot holes drilled in it so that it screws in place. I might initially clamp it to hold it secure while I drive the screws.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Instructions on how to make a circular saw sled are on page 14 of the Panel Jig plans.

similar but too narrow for my needs. Added here is extra width to allow for clamping. a 6" and 2" component is a bit too narrow for this.

heavybdrums wrote:

jimbo7 wrote:

heavybdrums wrote:I have read many in older posts claim to not be able to do a good job cutting with a circular saw.

You pretty much summed up Bill's Panel Jig plans. No big deal, but give the guy some credit too! (And maybe $1.95. It's worth it.)

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/PanelJig.html

Nope ...The Panel jig is for a table saw, this jig works without table saw. The panel jig of Bill Fits's is for cutting compound angles on a table saw, this one only makes 90deg straight cuts. If it's the circular saw sled that you refer to, this is a better design due to the width of the 2 pieces leaving room to clamp it to the work and allows the saw's motor to miss the clamps. Also this design allows the wider portion of the saw's foot to rest on the jig, making for more accurate cuts. Also I own ALL of the plans on cd.

Bill,
Jimbo is right.
At least on my older panel jig plans, the circular saw sled is the last item, at the bottom of that set of plans.
And, there are times when, used as a zero clearance cutting jig, regardless of how wide it is, it will need to be screwed rather than clamped to use it.
If required, you can also make version's that are not 90 degree guides, to help doing long angled cuts without a table saw.

Still, it's good to see someone take the time and effort to post things like this up