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n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:12 pm
by TrevorMag
As outlined in a couple of other threads, my first and biggest mistake was to use AWP marine ply, which is very stiff and strong, but also very heavy.
It also had a bit of a "pullups" issue, as can be seen here.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:16 pm
by TrevorMag
Handle and jack plate cutouts were done with my router's template follower and some pine offcuts.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:18 pm
by TrevorMag
I used the same system to do the vent cutouts.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:21 pm
by TrevorMag
I made a perspex jig to do the driver cutouts, since my router didn't have a circle jig. Since the position of the centre hole is critical, I made a test cut first to check my measurements!

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:26 pm
by TrevorMag
As discussed in another thread, the glue I chose was too runny. If you ever find yourself in this situation, oven paper is your friend!
I also had to adjust the width of the baffle, and I have mounted my hand sander (using dowels - removable) to a sheet of MDF.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:27 pm
by TrevorMag
In keeping with the Jedi theme of this esteemed website, <gestures> "these are not the clamping images you are looking for"!

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:29 pm
by TrevorMag
The bracing was clamped in an ever so slightly more legitimate manner

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:30 pm
by TrevorMag
When removing some of the bracing screws, the glue had gripped them so firmly that they sheared right off. Fortunately, this didn't happen on any of the edges I intended to round over.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:33 pm
by TrevorMag
I pressed the damping foam down on the bracing, then turned it over and marked the temporary indentations before they disappeared.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:35 pm
by TrevorMag
Attaching the back, being deliberately generous with the runny glue to guard against leaks.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:41 pm
by TrevorMag
I used the same perspex jig to keep the router level when doing the roundovers.
The "inset" baffle presented a problem, as the edges that extend past it are not thick enough to support the roundover bit's guide wheel.
I therefore had to "pad it out" (and level everything) so that a roundover could be cut on the protruding sides, top and base.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:43 pm
by TrevorMag
I decided to build a grille standoff, which I don't think I would do again.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:46 pm
by TrevorMag
The magic of Duratex is that someone as obviously green as myself can get such a brilliant looking result!
I brushed on the first layer, sanded it, then put on two more with the roller.
As the Hobart summer was as unreliable as ever, I used the back my car as a curing oven.

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:49 pm
by TrevorMag
I found a sheet metal workshop that sold me some perforated metal at a very good price, and cut to size.
I sprayed it with metal primer, then red enamel. This stuff forms a fine red dust that gets everywhere!

Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:52 pm
by TrevorMag
I bought some aluminium bar to frame the grille, and cut it to size with a hand hacksaw.
I went for the brushed aluminium look, at first with an actual brush but then found that sandpaper gave a more uniform result.
Finished off with a sprayed layer of clearcoat.