BillFitzmaurice.info

I ordered the plans months ago. I've been scrounging materials and I'm finally kicking this thing off. My intent is to use the Dayton HF in the plans, but short term I'll be using another driver. My goal is to eventually build a second, but one for now to work the kinks out.

I have on hand:
2x BASH 300s
3 sheets 4'x8' Aruaco 5 equal ply
various T-nuts and Hurricane nuts
2 of the large tubes of PL3x

Just ordered today:
2x Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4

I was going to jump on the Eminence 4ohms on eBay recently, but I was able to scrounge enough for the pair of these. I really wanted all the bottom I could get, and Aluminum cones are just plain sexy.

Now if I can just figure out how to post pictures...

Ok, we're off...and the first snag... lets check the square on that fence... I saw a nice video on cutting round shapes with a table saw, I'm going to pass after this...

Yes, those pictures are from a while ago. I had purchased all my wood on Fathers Day. That was my day to putz in the shop all day. Both my sons helped me cut the 4x8 sheets down into manageable chunks with a saw guide and circular saw. But when I started using my table saw to make nice square pieces, I had that little detour with a broken fence. I can't stress enough to people to be careful of kickbacks. BFM's sled works much better than just a fence for cutting short pieces like that hexagon flange to thicken the mounting...

Anyway, this set me back a few weeks. I was worried i'd be out several hundred for a new fence. Lucky me, Jet was able to get me just the T that broke, and a handle that I broke last year for well under $100. I love my Jet 10" SuperSaw. And just in case anybody is curious, I have a 40 and 60 tooth Freud blades. I love them, clean them with a little oven cleaner when they get pitched up from all this flippin' pine!

Ok, here I have most of the wood whittled down to size.
I also lightly laid out side 1 sketches.
I cut side 1 exactly 36x36 and side 2 I left at least 1/2" of stock. I'm planning for a little out of square at some point.
Maybe next time I can afford the BB and skip the warps! I set my table saw for 23.5" and ripped all the panels down at once.
I didn't want to fight uneven joints when gluing side 2 on.

I have the access hole cut, mistake number 2.
Only close scrutiny will show, but my circular saw bearings must be shot, blade wobbled and made some sloppy cuts.
I also decided to paint the inside flat black to help mark my lines and got carried away.
Now I'm painting all the internals, probably OCD.

You should have finished painting.

Edit: the painting will be easier for that side, now. then again, once you have the panels installed, you'll be painting at the mouth area anyway.

I always get this urge to paint the driver interior white in my builds.

Tom Smit wrote:You should have finished painting.

Edit: the painting will be easier for that side, now. then again, once you have the panels installed, you'll be painting at the mouth area anyway.

My plan is to stain the mouth the same color as the outside, just not sure at what stage I'll do it.

jimbo7 wrote:I always get this urge to paint the driver interior white in my builds.

In retrospect I should have gone for white, the black will make it hard to see when it's all glued up.

Here is panel 1 going on, after rookie mistake #3.
I cut panel 1 bevel wrong and ended up shortening it 1/2".
I'll have panel 6 overlap, since they all had extra stock.
I made a straight edge of sorts to help with warp by laminating some 3/4" plywood and squaring it up on the table saw. After the clamps came off, it appears I introduced warp vertically, or maybe it's a photo trick.
Hopefully it will straighten when I put panel 2 on.

That panel will straighten out when you attach the three other panels to it and put the two corner braces in.

I am worried that your work table is not supported enough in the center. You need a rock solid and well braced straight table to build on. You should have two by fours on 16" centers supporting the plywood table on which you build (ideally) or your table is going to sag in the middle and this will transpose into your build. Screw some 2 by 4s on edge under your table surface every 16" and support the table by placing the two by fours onto your saw horses.

Panel 2 went in ok, panel 1 still looks warped while clamped but I (hope) think it's an optical delusion. After the clamps came off, seems good, good squeeze out all around.
Starting to think I should have tooled the wet PL with my finger like Bryson and Rowan611.
I've been chiseling it out since it seems to come out clean when it's cured.

Made a crude jig for my RotoZip since I can't seem to find one of those router hole cutting templates. It works, not as clean / square as a router, but not bad, only 1/8" kerf if you can call it that.

Panel 3 went in easy, however I didn't get good squeeze out on this side.
Inside oozed good, I'll have to caulk that one a bit.
I couldn't resist painting again while I was tinkering.

howiez wrote:I couldn't resist painting again while I was tinkering.

That'll be good for a few extra pounds down the road.

I did the same thing with my AT's using polyurethane. No regrets. YOBIO.

Test fit of my driver