BillFitzmaurice.info

Hi,

I'm building the V-plate for T39's and was wondering about a couple measurements. The plans say to drill 6 pilot holes, but 4 are shown. 4 makes sense as the T nuts are in the opening of the subs.

I'd use at least 6 as that is a long length of wood that could vibrate. I did find that the v-plate plans (at least on my T30) seemed a bit of an afterthought, and didn't go into as much detail as the rest of the build. I actually think this isn't a bad thing, as it's forcing you to put into practice the methods you have just learnt building your sub!!

I drilled the 4 holes on the side in the mouth of the sub. I used shitty ply for it and it's solid.

I use 4 clamps as per Bruce Weldy's method and haven't noticed any troublesome vibration. Plate is a (probably excessive) 1" thick BB.

whines wrote:I use 4 clamps as per Bruce Weldy's method and haven't noticed any troublesome vibration. Plate is a (probably excessive) 1" thick BB.

Thank you for that. I had searched before asking but obviously not the correct terms. So if anyone else is looking here is the link to Bruce's method. Simple and neat. http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... it=v+plate

Dan56 wrote:

whines wrote:I use 4 clamps as per Bruce Weldy's method and haven't noticed any troublesome vibration. Plate is a (probably excessive) 1" thick BB.

Thank you for that. I had searched before asking but obviously not the correct terms. So if anyone else is looking here is the link to Bruce's method. Simple and neat. http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... it=v+plate

Bruce's clamps work great, I use them too. I used thread-locker on the bolts instead of welding. I also dipped the plate in Plasti-dip after it was all together.

jswingchun wrote:Bruce's clamps work great, I use them too. I used thread-locker on the bolts instead of welding. I also dipped the plate in Plasti-dip after it was all together.

The red tread locker I assume? Did you drill the hole in the plate small so that the bolt treaded in? Plasti-dip? Nice idea.

I use 1/2" high density foam weather stripping as "padding" between the plate and the sub, and one (1) bolt to hold down the V-plate. Not so much as a single rattle.

Dan56 wrote:

jswingchun wrote:Bruce's clamps work great, I use them too. I used thread-locker on the bolts instead of welding. I also dipped the plate in Plasti-dip after it was all together.

The red tread locker I assume? Did you drill the hole in the plate small so that the bolt treaded in? Plasti-dip? Nice idea.

No need to thread 'em in. The bolts and thread-lock work fine. That's how I did my second v-plate. The welding was overkill and a PITA.

Now that I have 6 subs...it's easier to just stack 'em up rather than v-plate.

Maybe one day I'll be able to v-plate the stack of 6. Not sure if the plate does anything once the stack gets 6 feet tall. Has to be a diminishing return in there somewhere. Bill?

Dan56 wrote:

jswingchun wrote:Bruce's clamps work great, I use them too. I used thread-locker on the bolts instead of welding. I also dipped the plate in Plasti-dip after it was all together.

The red tread locker I assume? Did you drill the hole in the plate small so that the bolt treaded in? Plasti-dip? Nice idea.

A nut, a bolt and thread lock. I don't remember the color, but the permanent one. The plasti-dip makes 'em look cool if nothing else. I guess it protects the cabs some too. A put on a whole bunch of coats and it has held up really well.

Sorry to jump in here, but I have an odd question about the v-plate...
The plans show it as small as it could possibly be to span the gap between the horn mouths. How crazy am I for wanting to cut it so that it covers the gap behind the cab as well?
As in, make it substantially larger so that the subs could double as a stage extension?
Make it safe to walk on, or maybe put Wedgehorns on, whatever, but I don't want a gap someone could step into.
Is that crazy talk?

Ryan Sober wrote:Sorry to jump in here, but I have an odd question about the v-plate...
The plans show it as small as it could possibly be to span the gap between the horn mouths. How crazy am I for wanting to cut it so that it covers the gap behind the cab as well?
As in, make it substantially larger so that the subs could double as a stage extension?
Make it safe to walk on, or maybe put Wedgehorns on, whatever, but I don't want a gap someone could step into.
Is that crazy talk?

You can do it if you don't have the chevron corners on the cab. With the corners, the plate won't sit down properly.

Bruce Weldy wrote:
You can do it if you don't have the chevron corners on the cab. With the corners, the plate won't sit down properly.

You mean cutting away the excess cab behind the horn mouth that isn't part of the horn?
I hadn't planned to do that... I plan to put casters there.
So, I'm not crazy?

Ryan Sober wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:
You can do it if you don't have the chevron corners on the cab. With the corners, the plate won't sit down properly.

You mean cutting away the excess cab behind the horn mouth that isn't part of the horn?
I hadn't planned to do that... I plan to put casters there.
So, I'm not crazy?

The "Chevron corners" are the plastic pieces that cover the corners of the cabinet to protect the corners. They also act as a locking system when you stack them. You could cut an opening in your V Plate to sit around them so that the plate rests totally on the cabinet side.

Using the plate as a shelf may not be so bad but personally, I would not want people walking on them regularly. They are built strong, but if they are sitting on any surface that is not flat then you are creating stress points as the underside of the cab as it bridges the unevenness. I'm thinking of a situation where they are sitting on a lawn, or field. Nothing would happen right away. Nothing may happen ever, but...

Dan56 wrote: Using the plate as a shelf may not be so bad but personally, I would not want people walking on them regularly. They are built strong, but if they are sitting on any surface that is not flat then you are creating stress points as the underside of the cab as it bridges the unevenness. I'm thinking of a situation where they are sitting on a lawn, or field. Nothing would happen right away. Nothing may happen ever, but...

Yeah, I doubt I'd ever have people (singers) standing on it anywhere but a concrete-floored bar. That's where this system is most likely going to be used.
Also, I'm not afraid to brace the thing against the ground. A piece of 4x4 into a 2" deep receiver (front and back?) ought to do the trick, right?