BillFitzmaurice.info

I've got the plans for a THT, I've read them twice, going on thrice. I'm in the hunt for a used table saw and some more clamps. I've found the plywood, and I already know my driver. So, my first question is amp related. I was thinking about the Behringer iNuke1000DSP. It's around 200 or so watts (actual), has DSP and isn't expensive. With that said, I know it's not the "best" choice. I was hoping for a few other options. I've looked at Crown and Peavy, but they might be too much. Hoping to keep the actual build part to around $500 (excluding the table saw, jig saw, and clamps)

I'll be posting more questions, the instructions are amazingly detailed; however, my brain wired differently and sometimes the obvious escapes me

I'm totally ready to do this and can't wait to start!

I have one of these that I really like. If you want / need a standalone component. Price is similar to your Peavey.


http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... r--300-813

Thanks for the reply and link! I'll go check it out.

I went for the BASH 300 at Parts Express. They are on sale right now for $125, everyone says they are plenty of power. I was able to get a refurb for 100, otherwise the iNuke was my next choice. I'm sure i'll need the DSP at some point from what i've read here.

Good luck on the build, hoping to start mine in the next week or so.

For your intended use of powering a HT sub, the amp will be in a corner somewhere, not moved, not stepped on and probably in a climate-controlled room to boot. The iNuke is a good candidate for this usage scenario. But, the iNuke 1000 puts out 750W RMS at 4 ohms bridged, which is overkill for this usage scenario.

That said, $125 for the BASH300 is a good deal. They are proven HT sub plate amp, very popular for good reason. It puts out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. Is your driver a 4 ohm driver/load? If so, the BASH amp is probably the better and cheaper bet.

If it were me, I'd get the BASH300.

For traditional HT subs, a 15" in a sealed box or some driver in a (usually too small) ported box, 300 watts is nothing. But Bill's designs are all about efficiency. They all get stupid loud and low with not a whole lot of watts. The tradeoff of course, is size; they are not small and some are huge. But that's Hoffman's Iron Law: Low, Loud, Small - pick two.

miked wrote:For your intended use of powering a HT sub, the amp will be in a corner somewhere, not moved, not stepped on and probably in a climate-controlled room to boot. The iNuke is a good candidate for this usage scenario. But, the iNuke 1000 puts out 750W RMS at 4 ohms bridged, which is overkill for this usage scenario.

That said, $125 for the BASH300 is a good deal. They are proven HT sub plate amp, very popular for good reason. It puts out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. Is your driver a 4 ohm driver/load? If so, the BASH amp is probably the better and cheaper bet.

If it were me, I'd get the BASH300.

For traditional HT subs, a 15" in a sealed box or some driver in a (usually too small) ported box, 300 watts is nothing. But Bill's designs are all about efficiency. They all get stupid loud and low with not a whole lot of watts. The tradeoff of course, is size; they are not small and some are huge. But that's Hoffman's Iron Law: Low, Loud, Small - pick two.

Hey Mike - I wouldn't be bridging the iNuke. But, I have been considering the BASH300. I know Bill recommends building a box for it. I'm guessing that isn't going to be too difficult.

I'm still looking for a good table saw. I had bought a used Craftsman, but it wasn't as advertised and I didn't realize that until I got it home. Luckily, the guy I bought it from took it back. Now I'm looking at a used Jet - no model number, but I'll get that on Friday when I go look at it. Another option is a different used Craftsman (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/t ... 05279.html). Lots of nice extras, but about an hour and a half from me. It's only $75 less than the Jet (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/t ... 73011.html). Don't know if the number on the top right of the motor is a model number (it is the model number). It's really close to me, like 20 minutes away. I know dick about table saws, but I'm trying to read up on them.

Rowan611 wrote: I'm still looking for a good table saw.

THT is a monster, with very large panels to cut. Unless it's an industrial sized saw you'll do just as well with a circular saw, a very good blade, cutting/assembly table and a saw sled to keep the cuts 100% accurate. The latter are both in the panel jig plans.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Rowan611 wrote: I'm still looking for a good table saw.

THT is a monster, with very large panels to cut. Unless it's an industrial sized saw you'll do just as well with a circular saw, a very good blade, cutting/assembly table and a saw sled to keep the cuts 100% accurate. The latter are both in the panel jig plans.

No I don't have the room for an industrial sized table saw, or the permission to spend that kind of cash. I've been trying to think of ways to do it alone. There are stands with rollers you can buy, thought I might buy a few of those, but perhaps not.

Using my circular saw would save me a bit of money; I have a Diablo blade on it now, I think it's a 40 tooth. Is that good enough? If not, a suggestion on a better blade would be appreciated. I just looked through the panel jig plans. I see the saw sled instructions, but not sure if the cutting/assembly table you're referring to is the Panel Jig; if so, how would I use it for a circular saw?

Thank you Bill!

Rowan611 wrote:Using my circular saw would save me a bit of money; I have a Diablo blade on it now, I think it's a 40 tooth. Is that good enough?

40 is OK, though for the smoothest possible cuts you'd want 60.

I just looked through the panel jig plans. I see the saw sled instructions, but not sure if the cutting/assembly table you're referring to is the Panel Jig;

Pages 10-12.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:40 is OK, though for the smoothest possible cuts you'd want 60.

Pages 10-12.

Thank you Bill

I can look for a 60 tooth and check out pages 10-12.

That looks easy enough to build. I think I'll give it a go with the circular saw. I'm also going to build those guides that follow the instructions for the table. I do have another question; how do I cut some of the single degree angles with a circular saw? My experience with a circular saw is all based on rip cuts for the fence I built and straight lines, lol. Would the extreme cutting angle jig possibly work? It doesn't seem like it would.

Again Bill, much thanks.

Rowan611 wrote:how do I cut some of the single degree angles with a circular saw?

Make a sled where the blade isn't flush to its edge but has an inch or two clearance, allowing it to be angled. After setting the blade angle measure the distance from the blade to the sled edge to place the edge correctly. Make sure the blade ends up on the correct side of the cut line.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Make a sled where the blade isn't flush to its edge but has an inch or two clearance, allowing it to be angled. After setting the blade angle measure the distance from the blade to the sled edge to place the edge correctly. Make sure the blade ends up on the correct side of the cut line.

Will do. I'll have to practice that a bit. Thank you again Bill!

Rowan611 wrote:

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Make a sled where the blade isn't flush to its edge but has an inch or two clearance, allowing it to be angled. After setting the blade angle measure the distance from the blade to the sled edge to place the edge correctly. Make sure the blade ends up on the correct side of the cut line.

Will do. I'll have to practice that a bit. Thank you again Bill!

Do it with a test cut on a piece of scrap. Mark a line for the sled, screw it in place, run the saw just enough to make a notch in the wood, measure the distance from the sled alignment line to the notch. Use that measurement as the sled offset from the cut line on the part.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Do it with a test cut on a piece of scrap. Mark a line for the sled, screw it in place, run the saw just enough to make a notch in the wood, measure the distance from the sled alignment line to the notch. Use that measurement as the sled offset from the cut line on the part.

Will give it a shot. Thank you!