Different method for clamping sheaths on Jack Lites
Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:36 am
OK, here is the method I use for clamping the sheaths of the Jack lites into place WITHOUT using proprietary clamps.
This method will not suit everyone, but will be time saving for the astute.
The reason I do it is because I never build one off of a cab, it's always at least two, most times four for any one build project. This means I don't have to have a lot of clamps ready with fiddly bits of wood and it frees up the build for me to carry on.
There are dangers with this method.
1) If you don't wrap the rectangles with food wrap beforehand, it's good night and good gardening.
2) Whilst the width cut must produce a tight fit, don't make it over-tight otherwise the food wrap will split..
3) When sliding the sheaths into place and ramming the block in, ENSURE the sheaths butt fully to the edge of the driver baffle.
4) It takes an effort to pull the rectangle blocks out, but they will come out. Do this AFTER the PL has set
Hence the cord knotted through the holes
The beauty of this method is that when you come to build more Lites, you have a time saving clamp system. The downside is you spend a couple of more bucks on ply ( I use rubbish 1/2" )
It takes no longer to make those rectangles than it does to make the clamp blocks mentioned in the plans - you just have to be more accurate that's all.
This method will not suit everyone, but will be time saving for the astute.
The reason I do it is because I never build one off of a cab, it's always at least two, most times four for any one build project. This means I don't have to have a lot of clamps ready with fiddly bits of wood and it frees up the build for me to carry on.
There are dangers with this method.
1) If you don't wrap the rectangles with food wrap beforehand, it's good night and good gardening.
2) Whilst the width cut must produce a tight fit, don't make it over-tight otherwise the food wrap will split..
3) When sliding the sheaths into place and ramming the block in, ENSURE the sheaths butt fully to the edge of the driver baffle.
4) It takes an effort to pull the rectangle blocks out, but they will come out. Do this AFTER the PL has set
Hence the cord knotted through the holesThe beauty of this method is that when you come to build more Lites, you have a time saving clamp system. The downside is you spend a couple of more bucks on ply ( I use rubbish 1/2" )
It takes no longer to make those rectangles than it does to make the clamp blocks mentioned in the plans - you just have to be more accurate that's all.
