BillFitzmaurice.info

Building a TTLS. Will be loading it with a Dayton DCS255-4 10 inch and powered with the Dayton 250 watt sub amp.

Got 2 sheets of Arauco, got the saw sled made; loving that. Got one sheet cut today, just 4 panels, the two sides and two of the internals. Thinking I'm gonna need another half sheet though, not sure if I'll be able to get the braces out of what is left after cutting the panels.

Also, brewing up my batch of beer. Should be ready to drink about the time I finish the TTLS.

thunderw0lf wrote:Building a TTLS. Will be loading it with a Dayton DCS255-4 10 inch and powered with the Dayton 250 watt sub amp.

Got 2 sheets of Arauco, got the saw sled made; loving that. Got one sheet cut today, just 4 panels, the two sides and two of the internals. Thinking I'm gonna need another half sheet though, not sure if I'll be able to get the braces out of what is left after cutting the panels.

Also, brewing up my batch of beer. Should be ready to drink about the time I finish the TTLS.

MY BROTHER!

Coming along nicely sofar. Going to be 21 inches wide. Got the first two panels together tonight. Although, panel 2 will be about 3/16 inch closer to panel 5 at the end than it is at panel 1. I hope that won't hurt it too much because it's not moving now.

Yes, it's being assembled in the living room because it's too cold in the garage for the PL to cure. I'll do all the cutting and stuff in the garage and bring the pieces in to assemble.

It is possible to cut the PL joint, wedge open a gap to force new PL into, and then position correctly using the guides as shown on page 3 &7. A multi-crafter tool, hand saw or even a hacksaw blade will do.

I have nothing I could do that with. Tried to pull the nails out but they're in too deep, I'd leave a big gouge in the wood if I dug them out. So I guess we'll see how much it hurts it. Crossing fingers.

thunderw0lf wrote:Tried to pull the nails out but they're in too deep ......(snip)........ Crossing fingers.

That must be that fancy new ninja technique for pulling nails. It's the talk of the town on the DIY forums across these here internets, but I don't quite get it just yet.

Sorry, bad joke and I know it, I just couldn't resist. Getting me coat already. Please do keep posting updates and pics of your progress

3/16" isn't going to make a difference as long as it is air tight.

lowsound

A little more progress. Got panel 5 cut and the spacer. Yes, it is in fact possible to get a circle as accurate with a jig saw as it is with a router. Will post pics later.

Next step is figure out what I need for the braces and make and install the 2/5 braces. I will cut each piece as I go, not making the mistake of cutting ahead and it not fitting again.Gonna need at least another 1/4 sheet for the braces, didn't take the braces into account when figuring how much material to buy. oops, but we learn from our mistakes right?

Incidentally, I ended up having to buy a new circular saw the other night, the shaft on the one I had was apparently worn out because it was moving about an 1/8th inch. Can't get accurate cuts when the saw has that much thrust can you? I got a nicer saw now, laser beam cutting guide( I use my saw sled though for long cuts, not steady enough to keep it straight freehand), anti kick-back design. cuts angles to 51.5 degrees. Cuts more smoothly than the old one; meaning it glides easier.

One thing I've noticed, cutlist is not very good at finding the cutting solutions. While it is a handy tool, I find I have to arrange the parts manually quite often.

I tend to do the same with cutlist. I am not sure if it gives a better result per se, but at times I find other arrangements make more sense to my brain at least. Or it simplifies the cuts that I have the shop do before the pieces fit into my car.

For braces I tend to keep scraps unless they are very small (or I have no space left). They come in handy for making jigs, braces, or just that one extra bit of ply that is missing for the next project. It saves a bit on using fresh ply.

Cutlist finds solutions that maximize the square inches of leftovers/scrap. Cutlist doesn't necessarily find the most logical or EASY to cut solutions. Sometimes, I also manually rearrange parts in order to make the cutting that much easier. Typically, I use Cutlist to give me an accurate idea of how much wood I really need to buy. Was especially useful when I built 4 T48s...that's a lot of wood.

Got panel 5 and the spacer in today. And there probably won't be any more progress till the weekend, gonna be too cold even with the heater in the garage to go out there to cut any panels or braces.

Got a question before I get to that point in the build. Regarding the 3/10 braces, is there any tricks to getting them in and relatively square? Looking at the install order, to me it looks like panel 10 should be installed before panel 9 just to ease brace installation.

thunderw0lf wrote:Got a question before I get to that point in the build. Regarding the 3/10 braces, is there any tricks to getting them in and relatively square? Looking at the install order, to me it looks like panel 10 should be installed before panel 9 just to ease brace installation.

The braces look harder to install than they are, because they're tapered. A long pair of water pump pliers makes it easy to slide them in. Panel 9 goes in first so it will flatten any warp at the end of panel 10.

Thanks for the tip Bill. Never heard them called water pump pliers before though, always called them channel locks, not even my dad called them that and he was a mechanic in the navy during Vietnam and then for the post office.

Anyways, more progress. Got panel ten and the braces left to put together. Cabinet should be assembled by Saturday. Will still need to make the stand, going to have this down firing, partly because that's what I prefer and partly because if I have the horn mouth up I know at some point my cat will end up stuck in the horn and I wouldn't want that to happen.

Still gotta figure out how I'm gonna break in the driver, only way I have to send the tone to the driver is to disconnect a speaker(yea I gotta get more speaker wire), use the wire to connect to the sub amp, unplug my current sub to use that rca cable, headphone out on my phone into auxiliary input on my receiver. And since my phone updated, it cuts the volume if you leave it on max for an hour or so warning you about hearing loss. And the only way to get the ten volts is to have the volume higher than it will run without a warning popping up. I ran into because a podcast I listen to regularly with headphones is often low on the record level and I have to turn it up to hear it at a normal level. As a sidenote, not sure exactly how accurate it is but the most I can get is about 90 db on my headphones plugged into my phone according to my Radioshack DB meter.