BillFitzmaurice.info

WOW lot of stuff to get started...

First question - how long do you have to wait for PL to set to start moving it around and adding more panels? Is 12hrs enough?

PICS in the morning!

I usually waited 20-24 hours. I'd usually put in a couple panels per day.

I have assembled almost every panel of subs in one day - but only if I used screws to hold everything tight so it did not move while I was adding the next panels. I like to spend an entire day building sometimes rather than just one or 2 panels per day.

PL is pretty much unmoveable after 12 hours, but actually takes 7 days to fully cure.
Just remember the goal of the PL is not just to stick the ply together, but also fully seal the joint.
Fully sealed joints are the golden rule of these cabs. I've not put all panels in in one sitting, but done more some days than others. I generally leave the cab over night before proceeding...

Well, been 12 hrs now, so I need to hit the shop and get to work! I don't have my speaker yet, so I'm tempted to cutout for the speaker baffle just from the MFG specs. 10.08" overall diameter, 9.05" baffle hole diameter. I can't imagine that a little sandpaper wouldn't fix any tight spots. Still the hurricane nuts and epoxy for that panel. I suppose I could put in panel #3...

Building these things sure make you want nicer tools... My table saw is a cheap craftsman. Direct drive, table top is 16" x 26" wide. Cutting a miter edge on these panels, 15" wide, is hard, and lacking in accuracy. Oh well... Been reading the Tips thread. There is a lot of great info in there for sure. Exposes me to tools that I didn't know exist though!

Don't proceed without your driver on hand!

You want to check that the driver does in fact go in properly and you need the driver to install your hurricane nuts precisely. Adjustments to hole size and putting in Hurricane nuts is much easier with the panel not installed.

Grant Bunter wrote:Don't proceed without your driver on hand!

You want to check that the driver does in fact go in properly and you need the driver to install your hurricane nuts precisely. Adjustments to hole size and putting in Hurricane nuts is much easier with the panel not installed.

+1! Once that baffle is installed, about the only thing you could do is widen the driver hole in spots with sandpaper. BUT, the most important thing is the placement of the t-nuts. Once you drill holes and they're in, they're in. The baffle is the most important panel in the cab. If the driver doesnt' sit flush and/or leaks around the gasket or moutning hole, your driver will be toast very quickly when you fire it up.

You are doing "the Harley trick" on your tnuts, I hope? At the very least you should be installing a small screw in-between the "arms" of the tnut so it cant rotate on you. The proper way is that little screw AND expoxy holding the tnut on. Yes, it's a PITA to do, but the payoff is worth it. See my T48 build thread (in sig) for lots of pics. Ignore all the negative comments about my tnuts not working/being bad/etc. That was user error. Everything worked out just fine.

Tnuts are great, but they are an "All in or nothing" proposition. You either take the time to do it correctly, or you will have problems.

I've always waited at least 12 hours before moving any PL'd panels. As Grant pointed out, you're not only looking for mechanical strength, but the sealing properties of PL as well. Depending on the temp/humidity where you're working, PL can cure perfectly in a normal amount of time or it can crack on the outside before the inner parts are cured due to excess heat (Texas) in the room.

Please don't go assembling the cab panels out of order. The plans are laid out the way they are for many good reasons. Most of us have tried to outsmart the plans at one time or another and wound up making fantastic piles of firewood for our efforts.

Go ahead and ask lots of questions; we're here to help. Rule #1: If in doubt, WAIT and ask a question.

ps
Also as Grant pointed out, air-tight is the most important aspect of building these subs. If your panel winds up with a 31-degree angle instead of 34, don't worry about it. Use a LOT of PL and there will be no problems. PL is the best stuff since sliced bread.

miked wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote:Don't proceed without your driver on hand!

You want to check that the driver does in fact go in properly and you need the driver to install your hurricane nuts precisely. Adjustments to hole size and putting in Hurricane nuts is much easier with the panel not installed.

You are doing "the Harley trick" on your tnuts, I hope? At the very least you should be installing a small screw in-between the "arms" of the tnut so it cant rotate on you. The proper way is that little screw AND expoxy holding the tnut on. Yes, it's a PITA to do, but the payoff is worth it. See my T48 build thread (in sig) for lots of pics. Ignore all the negative comments about my tnuts not working/being bad/etc. That was user error. Everything worked out just fine.

Go ahead and ask lots of questions; we're here to help. Rule #1: If in doubt, WAIT and ask a question.

Definitely waiting on the driver. Been putting this off for two years... no hurry now. Also I plan on using the "Harley Trick" on the t-nuts. It just seems the best way to do it. As soon as the package comes in from Leland, I'll get going on the rest.

Thank for the input. Never built kitchen cabinets this detailed!

Saddle wrote:

miked wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote:Don't proceed without your driver on hand!

You want to check that the driver does in fact go in properly and you need the driver to install your hurricane nuts precisely. Adjustments to hole size and putting in Hurricane nuts is much easier with the panel not installed.

You are doing "the Harley trick" on your tnuts, I hope? At the very least you should be installing a small screw in-between the "arms" of the tnut so it cant rotate on you. The proper way is that little screw AND expoxy holding the tnut on. Yes, it's a PITA to do, but the payoff is worth it. See my T48 build thread (in sig) for lots of pics. Ignore all the negative comments about my tnuts not working/being bad/etc. That was user error. Everything worked out just fine.

Go ahead and ask lots of questions; we're here to help. Rule #1: If in doubt, WAIT and ask a question.

Definitely waiting on the driver. Been putting this off for two years... no hurry now. Also I plan on using the "Harley Trick" on the t-nuts. It just seems the best way to do it. As soon as the package comes in from Leland, I'll get going on the rest.

Thank for the input. Never built kitchen cabinets this detailed!

You're very welcome. We are happy to help; welcome aboard! I'm sure these kitchen cabinets you're building will turn out great! I've done stuff like that too. LOL!

When you use the epoxy be sure to keep it out of the tnut threads. I put little pieces of tape over the bolt holes before applying epoxy. Turned out I really didn't need to do that, but better safe then sorry. Also, VERY IMPORTANT. Before you mount the tnuts, run a bolt through each and every one of them to ensure the threads aren't bad. Out of 32, I threw away 2 or 3 (can't remember) but I did wind up chucking a few. If you only bought "just enough" from Leland you can always buy more at Lowes or HD. The time to find out a tnut has bad threads IS NOT when you're trying to mount the driver in a finished cabinet.

Just take your time with the build. READ other build threads to see where the pitfalls/trouble spots are. I shoved my braces in too tightly and it caused me lots of stress. That's one of the major problem areas to avoid and I fell right in it face-first. Also, don't worry about the appearance of the unfinished cab. Lots of holes, gouges, uneven spots...the trim bit on the router (or a sander), wood putty and Duratex will make even the ugliest cabs (mine) look like pro cabs.

Some quick pictures. I have only attached the top at this point. I'll cut and install panel #2 and #3 when the speaker and hardware arrives. This build forced me to insulate the ceiling and one wall of my shop, then sheetrock the wall. Hang some lights... Just to have a place to work. So building this speaker is increasing the value of my property!!



Hoping that my application of PL and the "Squeeze Out" is about right. Haven't made a mess yet... that's coming for sure.








I built one of the panel cutting jigs. Works nice with my saw. I need a finer blade (more teeth) though, it splinters stuff out.


Won't get anything else done on it tonight...

Oh yea... what is the recommended uploaded picture size? (or limit)

Thanks

Looking great!

I see you've already taken away the PL squeezout for where the back goes. Much easier to also do the spots where panels 2, 3, and 9 go now as well.

You can do some more in a fashion, if you temporarily dry fit panel 3 you could just about get the 3-5 braces cut too...

Your amount of PL squeezeout is perfect. Just leave it. Let it dry, and use a sharp chisel to remove later IF you need to. And by "If you need to" I mean only if you need to remove the dried PL where it would prevent you from attaching additional panels. Otherwise, just leave it. If you've never worked w/PL before, this will be a good introduction for you. It will bubble and bulge from between panels. Unless you need to scrape it away to attach another panel, just leave it alone.

miked wrote:Your amount of PL squeezeout is perfect. Just leave it. Let it dry, and use a sharp chisel to remove later IF you need to. And by "If you need to" I mean only if you need to remove the dried PL where it would prevent you from attaching additional panels. Otherwise, just leave it. If you've never worked w/PL before, this will be a good introduction for you. It will bubble and bulge from between panels. Unless you need to scrape it away to attach another panel, just leave it alone.

Thanks! A spot on the back side of that pic never did squeezout... but it's 'right there'.. so I'm sure it's ok.. The tube just leaks and leaks and leaks even after you release pressure. Not a lot, but you do need remember where you laid it down before it makes a mess.

I used a nitrile glove that really helped save the fingers...

Welcome to the wonderful and messy world of PL. Releasing the pressure on the tube after every application is a start. Be sure to also PLUG the nozzle with a screw that "jams in there" just enough. PL is a PITA. It is not easy for anyone, period. Consider it a "right of passage." Just remember: There's no such thing as using too much PL, but there is such a thing as using NOT enough." Glop it on there, man. BFM cabs are all about air-tight.

I'm going OT here, but I want you to understand this whole deal. Unlike commercial offerings which chose a cabinet size and then "make" a driver work "well enough", BFM cabs are DESIGNED around the driver and then the cab is spec'd to be really great around it. That's why there is a recommended driver list for any BFM cab. The TS parameters of the recommended drivers are all close enough that they will all work well. The main diff b/t the recommended drivers is power handling NOT freq response.