BillFitzmaurice.info

Hello,

I'm new to the forum and would like thank you in advance you for your help. I have a couple of projects in mind that I was hoping to get some help with.

Let’s start with the easiest one, I have an empty Cab form what used to be a Mackie SR 1530 and I would like to load some drivers/speakers to it and get it running as passive full range cab for our band’s PA.

My question is; which speaker/drivers would you recommend for it?

My second project will be Building some Wedgehorn 10 Full Range Floor Monitor, and I know I will need assistance with that, but we can take it one project at a time.

Again Thank you for your Help.

I know it probably does not make any difference but here a little info on what the original cab had:

Transducer:
Low-Frequency:
Diameter 15-inch (381mm)
Power Handling 300 watts Dynamic Program Power

Mid-Frequency:
Diameter 6-inch (152mm) diameter
Power Handling 100 watts Dynamic Program Power

High Frequency:
Exit Throat 1-inch (25.4mm)
Power handling 100 watts Dynamic Program Power

That sounds like an original RCF one (RFC? my memory is going)

I also have one of those gathering dust. The cab will have been designed for specific drivers, retrospectively trying to fit some is a guessing game. In all honesty, it's not worth the effort. Sell it as an empty cab and move on.

Did Mackie do something special with the cab to make it worth redeeming? I don't know Mackie's background, if they are into research and development or not.

I vote for saving yourself time and effort shining up a common box. Spend the time finding quality wood, custom crafting it into one of Bill's designs and getting something extraordinary out of it. No one will say, "Wow, you did that!" with a refurbished Mackie. Tell them that amazingly clear and loud party music is pumping from two 8's and a 12 inch sub and watch jaws drop. Then say you built them. True story every event I do. It was tough for me to build my PA, but the rewards keep coming.

I am Planing on building some DR 250 in the near future, I was just hoping to save some time since I have a few gigs as soon as 20 days and I could really use any extra cabs I can get a hold on with the least amount of$$.

We do a lot of gigs anywhere from 100-500 people, I'm currently running the 2 JBL JRX125 and 2 Cervin Vega Subs.

on a side note I was also wondering:

Would the DR 250 be good competition to the JBL JRX125?
how many would I have to Build to at least Match the 2 JBL?
and how much $$ would I be spending on Each DR 250?

1 DR250 with the big port or even unported since you have subs will equal the JBL pair on SPL.....but the sound quality is no comparison if these are the JBLs I have actually heard.

wow they are that good huh, how much would cost me to build such a speaker? My be my wife will let me spend the next 20 days trying to build one.

TheCesar wrote: I'm currently running the 2 JBL JRX125 and 2 Cervin Vega Subs.

Having done two gigs in the last two weeks on JRX boxes (the 2-15 ones), I and tell you in no uncertain terms that my OT12s leave 'em in the dirt in volume and clarity.

I've never heard the DR250s, but everyone says that they are even better.

Bruce Weldy wrote:

TheCesar wrote: I'm currently running the 2 JBL JRX125 and 2 Cervin Vega Subs.

Having done two gigs in the last two weeks on JRX boxes (the 2-15 ones), I and tell you in no uncertain terms that my OT12s leave 'em in the dirt in volume and clarity.

I've never heard the DR250s, but everyone says that they are even better.

Nice, so how much $$ did it cost you to build the OT12s and how much time did it take you to build them?

TheCesar wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:

TheCesar wrote: I'm currently running the 2 JBL JRX125 and 2 Cervin Vega Subs.

Having done two gigs in the last two weeks on JRX boxes (the 2-15 ones), I and tell you in no uncertain terms that my OT12s leave 'em in the dirt in volume and clarity.

I've never heard the DR250s, but everyone says that they are even better.

Nice, so how much $$ did it cost you to build the OT12s and how much time did it take you to build them?

+1 to everything said above. JRX125 severely lack output and quality of sound.

A pair of OT12's (or DR's) will destroy them.

Someone that has worked with wood before can knock out a pair of OT 12's in a day or two. A novice in a week or so. YMMV

Cool! I have some of experience with wood so should be somewhere in the middle

Any Ideas on an Aprox US$$$ figure im looking at for a pair. of OT 12's.

TheCesar wrote:Cool! I have some of experience with wood so should be somewhere in the middle

Any Ideas on an Aprox US$$$ figure im looking at for a pair. of OT 12's.

Depends on your wood costs and how you plan to finish them (duratex, carpet, tophats, etc)

Approved drivers run about $65-150 depending on model if I remember correctly.

Jon Barnhardt wrote:

TheCesar wrote:Cool! I have some of experience with wood so should be somewhere in the middle

Any Ideas on an Aprox US$$$ figure im looking at for a pair. of OT 12's.

Depends on your wood costs and how you plan to finish them (duratex, carpet, tophats, etc)

Approved drivers run about $65-150 depending on model if I remember correctly.

So if i get this right, about $150 for the electronics, $50 lumber, Hardware & $50. $20 soda and chips so about $250-275 would a safe figure per cab?

and how big of a power would I need to run to cabs?

Same again, depends on driver choice


Look at the deluxe kits from Leland at speakerhardware.com to build your DR's.

DR's take longer to build than Otops, so if you have 20 days, get going

I think you are in the ballpark.

They will get extremely loud on just 50 watts. I usually run mine on a plx 3002 (because I had prior) which is about 500 watts per channel and I never see the second led lit (gain usually set about halfway or less on the amp). I've done demos with them on a little 100 watt combo mixer with good results.

(this post is about OT12's) (Dr's are even more sensitive)