BillFitzmaurice.info

So, I thought I would consolidate my threads into one which is more fun to look through (with pictures)

some updates:

Found designs,
Purchased,
found escapemcp on forum,
Turned out he lives less than half an hour away from me,
got help!

Bought wood, got lab drivers, got qsc gx5 ex display for £205(Booya!)

So, question no 1 - are these screws (or the 1 1/4 inch ones) a good bet (the best bet) for keeping panels in place whilst gluing?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kreg-SPS-F1-1 ... 3a76a9e2d6

and heres to cutting the baffles

You have a local local? Awesome.

Screws wise I use these to great effect. They're cheap too so load your cabs up with as many as you need. T60 panels being loooooong multiple screws just means you're damn sure the PL is being compressed for maximum sealing potential. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+ ... 850/p32280

I think these are the ones i already have, think they will do the job is is it worth the extra outlay?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-bla ... 1000/63372

I used those to build my OT12s and I really didn't feel like they had enough bite. For the 8 quid it'll cost you to get a couple of boxes of the others I'm not sure it's worth pissing around with.

IMO, and FWIW, my DIY experience says to me Pan Head would need to be taken out, i.e. used only while the glue sets. But dry wall screws (trumpet fluted heads) might just pull into the wood so you can leave them in. See what others say - I'm only a stapler so far, in speaker building terms.

Uksounds wrote:and heres to cutting the baffles

it's not a good idea to have your hand in front of the jigsaw when cutting your workpiece.

I can't comment on other plywoods, but with Baltic, you'll snap the heads off drywall screws trying to countersink them without pre-drilling with a countersink bit.

If you have a brad nailer, just predrill 2 locating holes and use regular finishing nails for locating pins until you drive some brads into the panel. Then you can pull the locating pins afterwards and just have a tiny 1/16" hole to fill.

Something else which is not so obvious with screws is that the piece being fixed ought to have a ‘clearance’ hole in it, i.e. a just big enough hole that the threads fit through and don’t bite into any wood. This enables the screw to properly clamp the joint without any external load being applied to the work-pieces. That is the engineering approach to properly fixed/clamped joints. If only a single pilot drill of the screw thread minor diameter is used to drill both work-pieces in the joint (to drill out the ‘core’ of the screw), then the inserted screw ONLY holds the 2 pieces where they are, relative to one another, and there is no clamping effect from the screw - In this case the pressure needs to be applied to the joint externally.

The method employed should be to drill the ‘core’ pilot hole through both work-pieces (for alignment) and then take the piece being fixed, off, and drill a slightly larger hole through the pilot holes – hey presto. I use a cheap digital vernier gauge for measuring up screws and a set of 0.5mm increment jobbing drills for the hole requirements.

Not attempting to ‘teach ones grandmother to suck eggs’ – I mean, I’ve never sucked an egg in my life, yet!, ….also slightly more mechanical engineering than general wood-working and PL absolutely demand, but the clamping effect afforded by a screw when set up in the right way is more than a person can apply and more importantly closes up any gaps there might be.

(hell, who needs a picture when a thousand words will do)

Charles Jenkinson wrote:Something else which is not so obvious with screws is that the piece being fixed ought to have a ‘clearance’ hole in it, i.e. a just big enough hole that the threads fit through and don’t bite into any wood. This enables the screw to properly clamp the joint without any external load being applied to the work-pieces. That is the engineering approach to properly fixed/clamped joints. If only a single pilot drill of the screw thread minor diameter is used to drill both work-pieces in the joint (to drill out the ‘core’ of the screw), then the inserted screw ONLY holds the 2 pieces where they are, relative to one another, and there is no clamping effect from the screw - In this case the pressure needs to be applied to the joint externally.

The method employed should be to drill the ‘core’ pilot hole through both work-pieces (for alignment) and then take the piece being fixed, off, and drill a slightly larger hole through the pilot holes – hey presto. I use a cheap digital vernier gauge for measuring up screws and a set of 0.5mm increment jobbing drills for the hole requirements.

Not attempting to ‘teach ones grandmother to suck eggs’ – I mean, I’ve never sucked an egg in my life, yet!, ….also slightly more mechanical engineering than general wood-working and PL absolutely demand, but the clamping effect afforded by a screw when set up in the right way is more than a person can apply and more importantly closes up any gaps there might be.

(hell, who needs a picture when a thousand words will do)

Or, just use screws with no threads in the top third! Will pull panels very nicely together

Brilliant! LOL.

As mentioned, the heads of dry wall screws tend to get ripped of.

I'd try these:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-tite-pr ... -200/39260

If Birch, definitely countersink. Filling and sanding afterwards doesn't take long but unfortunately, I'm too lazy to screw in the braces but it is a good idea.

leamy_f wrote:

Uksounds wrote:and heres to cutting the baffles

it's not a good idea to have your hand in front of the jigsaw when cutting your workpiece.

Its not my hand

Thanks for the help everyone
Il get my friend to pick up some of those screwtite screws tomorrow with a bit of luck

You mentioned a pedal-powered system in another thread...

Uksounds wrote:qsc gx5

is this going to be run from an inverter, or do you have a seperate amp for the bike system?

bitSmasher wrote:You mentioned a pedal-powered system in another thread...

Uksounds wrote:qsc gx5

is this going to be run from an inverter, or do you have a seperate amp for the bike system?

Hi,
Sadly, the pedal power rig has gone out the window for now, the organisation simply does not have the funding to buy / build one, and a genny is only £25 for the time we need. On the plus side, we should still be doing the sound - 2xT60 20" in a park for a bike jump opening, hoping for complaints from at least 2 miles...