BillFitzmaurice.info

Greetings to all. What a dedicated crowd . . .people with genuine enthusiasm and a plan to sat that way . . .
Proceeding very carefully, reading the plans and all reference threads, here and at HTS and AVS , measuring, re-reading and remeasuring and looking at dry fit blocking, securing, clamping etc.
FIRST SNAG: panel 3, properly dimensioned and angled, does not hit on panel 2 as indicated in the plans.
Follow the plans!
I'd like to glue it asap as I have enough time to get it right the the first time and 1 panel a day works for me.
So, whats the fix? I still have 2 hours today to install it.

edit: while awaiting some feedback, I remeasured and recut and find that if panel 3 if dimensioned 1" wider over what the plans call for, it hits the marks.
But it is right?

asarose247 wrote:I remeasured and recut and find that if panel 3 if dimensioned 1" wider over what the plans call for, it hits the marks.
But it is right?

I don't think so. Panel 3 is most definitely 7 inches. If you need to make it 8 inches long to hit the marks the marks are wrong.

Thanks or the encouragement.
I'll recheck my rechecking and hit the marks.
Following the plans

looking ahead;I'm going on a cruise for a few weeks so progress will be slightl delayed, however,

Which amp? the PE Bash 300 or the SPA 250?
now my room is 10' by 11' as a factor and I do have a BFD 1124 as I work my way through REW'ing the room and current dual Klipsh Sub 10 set up.
Music is really fine, however . . . the roll off at 40 is unacceptable
Is there going to be an advantage to the resisitors switch out on the spa 250 CB with regards to LF roll-off and what ever it changes?
Now I realize I can just get the amp and after testing and setting up my freshly minted THTLP and moving it around and running REW and if needed the BFD etc, as nauseum, I could opt for the resisitor change but I believe I can also order the amp from PE with that change made for me. (problems that go away by writing a check!). I have the lead time so
Suggestions constructive and presumable from experience, please. And maybe fails to avoid
thank you

oopsie with respect to above inquiry!
The combined silence and wisdom told me to learn some more re BASH 300, and ta-da

Wait until its done and what REW and movement tell me before I might need to change something.

Thanks for the challenge and inspiration.

If you use over 100 watts you'll break your house and wake up everyone in a 1 block radius. Either amp will be fine.

FEEDBACK REQUEST. please
I'VE done the break-in.
Panel 6, the spacer and speaker and the PL'd t-nuts all line up.
QUESTION: What is a recommended way to "secure" the end of the 2" 10-32 screws threads projecting beyond the t-nut into the throat area?
I can see that I have about 3/8th's inch. Can I use dabs of PL to secure the screws and get air-tight isolation as well.
PL and some blue Loc-tite?
IF I can manage to work it out, could I use PL AND Antivibration nylon nuts on the screw projection?
I'm willing to spend the time and money to get it right the first time.
Thank you.
and to Missle Crisis: Nobody in the house but me and the neighbors don't care. Lucky me! ZERO WAF: Ethan said to Embrace that, hence this build.

Don't use loc-tite. It's too much for t-nuts / h-nuts. Even 222 (purple) is too much.

A little dressing of plain white glue or a dollop of rubber cement is the trick. Otherwise you'll make your driver a permanent addition to the cab.

All hail simplicity!
Thank you.

I meant to say any more than 100 watts into a tht and you'll go deaf in short order (if youtube can be trusted) . Haha but really I'm pretty sure that if you want to push more than 230 watts into the cab safely you'll need limiting and a hpf.

asarose247 wrote:Panel 6, the spacer and speaker and the PL'd t-nuts all line up.

You should not use PL to hold the T-nuts/H-nuts in, as PL does not stick to most metals. PL should only be used when making plywood to plywood adhesive connections. I would urge you to remove the ones that are installed, fill in the holes, rotate the driver a bit and start over on the driver baffle mounts. Not if, but when, the PL releases from the T-nuts, you will have a BITCH of a time fixing them once the cabinet is built. An ounce of prevention...

To add, use epoxy.
And.... http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewt ... Ut#p192850

Folks here are just so inspirational
panel 6 and spacer and speaker and epoxied tnuts , with that extra little screw also epoxied, all lined up and panel 6 glued in. surplus plywood and nice spring weather make for great sawdust making leisure . . .

from another thread and as was mentioned here about limiters . . .
Could a DSP 1124p fit the bill? I have a version 1 model I was trying to use to REW for the dual Klipsch sub 10's AND
Could anyone recommend a USB midi so I just upload my REW settings?

thank you

You don't really need a limiter on a HT sub like the THT-LP. It honestly will do STRUCTURAL DAMAGE to your home well before you hit those kind of levels. Ask bassmonster, Radian and I don't recall who broke the drywall corner in their basement.

Thank you WRT smoothing the road ahead . .

Any experience with using a powercord strain relief (well siliconed) for pass-thru of the speakerwire connection WRT the back panel. Do I want to leave a bit extra wire inside for any future (?) considerations. Would a dab or more of silicon keep such an arrangement in place and not be a source of noise of whatever?

Wouldn't a good tail of wire make for simplifying placement without a "jack" protruding? and a subsequent "spacing" issue. I have no issues WRT to "esthetics" of placement so I get to put it where it will measurably sound best.