BillFitzmaurice.info

Love to hear your thoughts on this.

As most of you would be aware, I am nearing completion of a PA.

I was talking to a mate the other day who I've organised to perform at the upcoming festival and he said "do you want my cabs for sidefill, they're good for 3000W". No thanks mate.

While working away on the WH8's I ruminated over this.
My subs are running on less than 450W into 4 ohms (per pair) when on the limiter.
My tops are not clipping at 215W/8ohms (1 each channel) when the limiter is engaging on the subs.
-10dB on the master faders is yielding me 120dB+ with the channel strip fader is on 0dB

So, technically, I have a 1300 and something watt FOH system.

There's not a lot of commercial systems available that would claim a true 1300W and reach well above 120dB (and sound freakin awesome).
When I was a young er boy playing, we used to hire a 5000W PA that seemed to take up half a room.
My new rig is less than a 1/4 of the physical size and eats that PA for breakfast.

So, for those supposedly knowledgable potential clients who "haftaknow how many watts is your system" as the basis for hiring you, how do you go about it.
I know word of mouth is great, but you have to get the gigs to get the word of mouth going. Catch 22.

Is there any equivelant, like, "it's equal to a 3000W PA but because of it's efficiency it takes less power to do that"...

Figure out what the absolute highest output (bridged at 4 ohms) is for each amp that you will bring. Add 'em up. Then say -

"I have xxxxx thousand watts available."

If you don't feel that's enough....throw a couple of old amps in your trunk and add them in too.

Never want to lie.....but you can tell 'em the truth a whole bunch of different ways.

Now me....because I like to teach, and am naturally long-winded - I'd try to explain it to 'em.

I like Bruces idea but I would answer the question with a question first. "How many watts are you looking for and why?" Or "Do you know what spec tells you how loud a speaker is or why it sounds good?" That would open you up to some minor education.....last but not least...give them a demo. Bring a top and some subs, add an amp. Also.let them know your system is tuned to allow maximum SPL wothoit fail, does your competitor? Then tell them how many watts are available. 98% of the people don't know what the hell 1w/1m means or how it affects anything.

Won't work for all but some.

Grant Bunter wrote: Is there any equivelant, like, "it's equal to a 3000W PA but because of it's efficiency it takes less power to do that"...

Say that and all you'll do is confuse them.
Since your rig is at least 6dB more sensitive than commercial gear multiply the speaker wattage by four and leave it at that.

Try this one:


"Watts? Who cares about watts? My system hits 10 on the Loud-o-Meter."

I get this question all the time when my friends ask me about the dual TT in my car. I'll answer that the voltage limit of the dual TT is around 32v. Most of them don't speak in volts; they want a wattage answer. 400w doesn't satisfy them. Most of them seem to think "anything under 1000w SUX!" The simplest solution to this is a "sound check" , but if that's not possible I'll just answer in the total "max" power of the two JBL GTO804, which is 1600w combined. In reality I'm using less 400w, so less than 1/4 of that 1600w number. The 1600w number seems to satisfy.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote: Is there any equivelant, like, "it's equal to a 3000W PA but because of it's efficiency it takes less power to do that"...

Say that and all you'll do is confuse them.
Since your rig is at least 6dB more sensitive than commercial gear multiply the speaker wattage by four and leave it at that.

Thanks all,
Bruce, it is good to teach, provided the listenee is willing to learn, but I understand what you mean.
Maybe I should just say "it goes to 11".

Subharmonic, yes a different approach to the same problem.

Bill, very sensible.
So I have a 5200W FOH system (based on RMS rating).

Grant Bunter wrote: So I have a 5200W FOH system (based on RMS rating).

And based on how it sounds who's to say that you don't?

Yep yep, don't forget that speaker manufacturers do this too, so i guess it's an accepted practice

For example, take the low end yamaha cabs that are sold for around $400. They have a wattage rating of 1000watts when they actually have drivers that are outperformed by the beta's. So all they do is take the 250watt thermal rating and double that to give you the "program" power, then double again to you give you the "peak" wattage: 1000watts. Of course, they're not going to mention that their xmax only allows 120watts

Grant Bunter wrote: Maybe I should just say "it goes to 11".

Yup. "It goes one louder..."

The local sound company has a loud rig and it sounds completely strained. My rig sound as full and sweet as any I've ever heard. I'd LOVE to get my rig at one of the local recreation department events, get it in a big outdoor area and really let it go.

Like this? It was cool. I made friends.

Hi all

Here in South Africa we also have "How many thousand watts is your system ?", when I reply to them that my system is measured in "volts and not watts" they frown and I can see these guys think "what an idiot" until they hear the system and then I'm the best thing next to "freshly baked bread".

I've heard a lot of systems here in South Africa and yes the top companies with mega bucks systems do sound awesome, besides them I am not at all shy to go head to head with the other boys, not to mention mine is the " best bang for buck" system out of all of them.

My OT12's and T48 combination has really got people talking and as per my bookings I'm getting in, well that also speaks for itself.

Guys be proud of your systems as they are awesome..

Jose

I think Bruce is on the right track: Ask a question to answer their question. That puts them in thinking mode so when you give them the inflated figure there's more of a chance it'll all sink in.

Simply ask them what SPL they wish to achieve, and at what distance. If they wish to discuss watts, add up the AC power ratings of all your gear and give them the number. It's just as meaningful as quoting the manufacturers amp power ratings without all the necessary impedance load values, efficiency, line sag, etc.