BillFitzmaurice.info

I purchased a second Titan to go with the one I built with a friend. I loved the price and skipping the build phase, but since it wasn't a visual match to my other, I knew some work needed to be done.

Here it is, fresh out of the van, with all manner of debris stuck to the felt-like carpet. Being an extraordinarily hot day (look at my yellow grass), I left it in the sun and then peeled the carpet off. Unfortunately the adhesive didn't want to let go. I scraped, sanded, rubbed it with soapy water, goo gone, adhesive remover and gasoline, but there was no magic bullet. Scraping was the most effective, but time consuming. Even after I scraped, fibers were still there and it was still sticky. So I painted it. It turned out okay. I saw where the spots needed wood filler, and the fibers that resisted scrapping stayed flat. The second picture has one side unscraped, one side scraped, and one scraped and painted.

I plan to Duratex it, so texture isn't going to be bad. Next step is sand, fill and sand. Then prime and Duratex.

Revenge of the rat.

After seeing that, it sure does give strong points to go straight away with Duratex. At my place of employ, I have to remove adhesive sometimes, and I don't like it. I have found that methanol, or rubbing alchohol works. I'll sort of work it in, and then use a scraper/ razor blade to scrape off. Rinse/repeat.

After more sanding and scraping, I used a ton of wood filler. Carpet covers up a lot. Then I sanded some more. This is a big box -- I used 3 cans of black spray paint to cover it. Hopefully I can Duratex it tomorrow or the next day. Here's hoping I have enough leftover.

This Titan was made for the Lab12, and has the chamber reduction panel built in. I'm going to use a Kappalite 3012LF, so I need to open up the chamber. I charged up my old (really old) cordless drill, but it only lasted for two holes before dying. I was hoping to get my jigsaw in there, but it was too tight, and the drill holes were just a smidge too small. I'll have to try to borrow a dremel or something similar. I'm driving myself to finish it by Sunday, so I can use it at a gig where bass will be welcome.

Gauss wrote:I'll have to try to borrow a dremel or something similar.

Harborfreight oscillating tool maybe? Cheap and effective and fits into tight quarters.

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillatin ... 68861.html

jswingchun wrote:Harborfreight oscillating tool maybe? Cheap and effective and fits into tight quarters.

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillatin ... 68861.html

I have one. It's a good tool, the blade holder is problematic. You have to crank the hell out of the bolt to get it to stay.

After 3 or 4 years, the Duratex I bought for my first T39 is still good. I added water, and it acted a little funny, but after a little time getting the textured roller rolling, it started to look right. It would bead up, then the roller would seem dry, then suddenly it would start flicking all over my hand and shoes. Oh well, it works amazing in the end. I love Duratex. This gallon has now covered two T39 and two DR200s. Even with my same old 99 cent brush, it looks and covers great.

I noticed it on the first round of pics and now on the finished pics: The line I see where the side meets the top, is that a gap or just not well sanded panels? Of course if its a gap, re-glue it and check for air leaks there. If it's just a not quite finished corner - who cares, run it!

edit: Duh, that's the access panel! Never mind, never mind, never mind. Sorry about that - I haven't built a t39 yet so assumed the worst. Go about your business.

This T39 was made right after the price skyrocketed on the 3012LF, and so the design was adapted for the Lab12. I'm assuming that piano hinges turned out to be a weakness in the design and so they were removed from the modern ones. Also, the reduction panel cutoff the bottom of the chamber, instead of vertically like the new ones. My favorite part is the corner, where the lid fits between the sides. Finished Duratexing the bottom tonight. Tomorrow I'll assemble the rest and test it out. I'll still have to open up that reduction chamber somehow.

glad you dealt with the rat fur! at the time it was the cheapest option for covering. I think if you swiss cheesed that reducer panel enough the driver wouldn't notice the difference, also a 4'' holesaw would speed work up!

Note for anyone converting from Lab12 to 3012LF: The actual diameter of the Kappalite 3012LF is larger than the Lab12. I started running my sander to open up the circle a little bit, but there's more to remove to get a fit.

Have you considered a small router to cut out the bulk of the reducer panels? The remaining pieces could be cleaned up with a sharp chisel.

I ended up borrowing a dremel and using a drill saw attachment. It wasn't easy, or pretty, but I cut out a large hole. When I'm done getting my motorcycle put back together, I'm going to finish sanding the baffle hole large enough for my 3012LF.

Thanks for the tip.

Done. I found hand sanding with really rough sandpaper was the best way to enlarge the diameter of the baffle hole. My fingers seemed to push the sandpaper into the curve better than other things I tried.

The previous owner must have used silicon sealant to make it airtight, (and when he removed the driver to sell the box, it was no longer effective,) because this thing was as sealed as a screen door. I pulled off the silicon leftovers, the flattened foam seals and filled the 'extra' bolt holes and gashes in necessary bolt holes, with wood filler. The four middle bolt holes that bolt into supports were all leaky and oversized, so I filled them with wood filler and put the screws in place while it dried. I'm not sure if that made them air-tight, but I carefully routed foam around those holes to isolate them. In the end, it worked.

I finished it in the morning, leak-tested it, loaded it in the van and set it up for an outdoor concert. As a secondary leak test, I compared its output with my other T39 and they were similar, with the new, larger box being slightly louder.

Good deed!

Sounds like a fair bit of recovery work involved to bring it up to standards, but in the end, saved you from the sawdust.