BillFitzmaurice.info

Gday all, after a big break between builds my mind has been settled, thanks to the input of fellow forum members, I'm going to be building two Omnitop 112's.
Given the cost of freight to Australia I've chosen to go with the Deltalite 2512, as I was able to get one, which I collected today from Ron Anchak for a song.
I'll be purchasing the rest of the gears from Leland/ SpeakerHardware enlisting ShipiTo to get it to Australia.
I'm going to be ordering the Deluxe Piezo kits with Melded Arrays and Crossover/Filter Prebuilt onto PCB Boards cause no doubt Leland and Co. will be a whole lot more proficient at soldering than I. It saves me time and headaches too!
Duratex is available in Aus now which I am quite tempted to buy, however an Australian company 'Durham' makes a comparable product called "ViroTuff" which is economically priced and recomended to me by a fellow Aussie forum member - so I'll be giving that a whirl, whilst I'm at it I'll re-finish my T39's with the durable coating to match.
Given my last experience with Aruaco was good, I'm going to go with that again too. I'm going to use the good folk at MisterPlywood Brookvale to cut the panels too, I'm back to working 7 days a week from tomorrow along with 6 evenings a week Gym to get fighting fit for my wedding so any opportunities to accelerate my build I'll be taking.
Where I'm going to appreciate some input is with regards to Grill Fabric / Mesh materials? Are there any Aussies that can advise me of a locally available product? Even our enzed bretheren... Harley or Gregory East - any advice for grill materials will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again all - I'm chomping at the bit to start moving forward.

On a final note, would anyway feel it risky to commence my build with just one 2512 to use as a template for the baffle? I'm hoping to get my timber one day this week and wont be getting my gear from Leland for about a month but really want to make a start before my life gets any more hectic Cheers all

Titanium Hand wrote:
On a final note, would anyway feel it risky to commence my build with just one 2512 to use as a template for the baffle?

So, you say you're going to have a 2512 in each cab? OK then. I don't know if you are using a jigsaw to cut the circle, but if you are , then it's easier to just clamp your spacers together so that they are square and cut out both holes at the same time. With them still clamped, mark and drill the mounting holes.

TH, welcome back form your sojourn...

My steel supplier can get me perforated steel (all that mesh really is) but I think he sources from Melbourne. Mate, check out the yellow pages! Has to be someone in Sydney that can get it, or manufactures it.
You want mesh/grill with a greater than 60% open area. That is available in a variety of hole sizes and styles. 1.6mm thick may seem flimsy, but all mesh really does is stop prying fingers (and finishes a cabs look IMHO). Over that thickness starts adding significant weight. Any decent knock will dent any mesh. Once you fix it it will be solid enough.

Rockard is awesome paint too, see it in the Aussie suppliers sticky

Thanks for your advice Tom, I'll be using that exact method!
Steel mesh it shall be Grant, I'm pretty confident working steel too so should be able to yield a satisfactory result.
I've noted the great Aussie Speaker paint 'Rockard', it just seems a tad expensive for me. The ViroTuff gear I'm looking at is something like $68 for 4 litres which is right down my alley! Rockard just can't compete price wise. I think it was anomolous that recommended it to me and he's had great results.

On the subject of finishing cabs.... The half inch roundover bit is our friend to match with most of lelands corners and the 12mm ply, isn't it?

Thanks again

Oh fantastic, will be watching this thread... I'll be building T39s and OT12s soon (I keep saying that! ) so it'll be interesting to see how you fare with local materials.
Be sure to post costs and suppliers as you go, for future reference

No sweat bit smasher, I plan to keep this thread a bit more 'strictly business', will post all costs as incurred. Cheers. You're welcome to come check out the progress in the coming weeks, or see the finished projects - more importantly hear them

right then, on topic only lol

I think old mate wanted to charge me around $180 inclusive for a full 2400 x 1200 sheet. 6mm diameter perfs x 1.6 thick 64% open area.
Just to ballpark your calculations.

Titanium Hand wrote:You're welcome to come check out the progress in the coming weeks, or see the finished projects - more importantly hear them

For sure, once they're done I'll get over your way to check them out!

Gaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrhhhhhh Bloody life getting in the way of speaker building! Had the Titans out from 7pm through 3am on Saturday night for my sisters post wedding party. didnt miss a beat, I wish I'd had the omnitops done though. I'm totally understanding the value of good tops now. I can't wait

I'MMMMMM BaAAAAAACK!

Hello all, time has come to make saw dust.
I built a nifty amp rack over the past couple of weeks to make sure I still had it in me.

This afternoon I supported the local small business and purchased a gallon of genuine DURATEX soo excited. It was $89.00 AUD collected it from the shop myself.

I bought a 12mm roundover bit, dear as poison might I add - however it did a bloody great job on my amp rack. I'll be layin down my first ever coat of D-Tex on the rack tonight practising for my Otops!

I will be shooting through my order to Mr Crooks shortly Hopefully he can help me out for a couple of Otop Kits minus the drivers along with a hoard of corners for my titans and amp rack / psuedo roadcase thingo

I should know better, but... can someone help me out and advise me what grit to rough up my enamel painted titans with before applying the DURATEX? Thanks in advance guys - I've less than 7 weeks to my wedding so its a now or never kind of project! And I'm nervous as all get out

Cannonsound have done well to get Duratex in.

I'm still into 15 litres of rockard big time, about 1/3 left with 2 coats on everything I've built so far.

I reckon just give your old paint job a scrub with 40 grit to rough it up. Should stick after that.

You can get away with a 3/8" roundover bit for the smaller corners, bit 1/2" will be fine.

Have fun with your build and your wedding

I was considering the Rockard, however the lack of smaller receptacle meant the starting price of approx $200.00 was to great a hurdle for me!

Thanks for your advice regarding the router bit size. I double checked the Penn Elcom webpage and they advise the correct radius for the Chevron 1405 is 10mm. Which as you suggest 3/8".

Has anybody used a 12mm or 1/2" roundover bit for the Chevron 1405 corner with success? I'm sure I've read it in many a post round these parts.

There is no advice regarding the basic metal corners, however Leland's site suggests 1/2" is spot on so I'm hoping all will be well as I've already given the amp rack the once over

I just placed my order for SpeakerHardware all sorts of Pre-Made Piezo's and baffles and crossovers, DIY is soo much easier when somebody with years of experience (and true, tried and tested jigs)pre assembles the tricky bits for us!

Ermagerhd. More arrays. My eyes are blurry from all the arrays I've done over the last week. Sam hasn't been able to get home in about a month, and I'm about to give out. He's far faster than I on arrays. Hell, he's far faster than I am on everything. Damn bifocals anyway.

Thanks for the order mate!

TH,
With your router and 12 mil bit, set it to full depth, do a test run on a scrap. If you think it's taking too much, just raise it about a mm or so and it will take less and have a lower diameter curve, around about 10mm in fact. Test again, then check fit of your corner piece...

I understand all the fuss about Duratex now

It is a seriously good product. I rolled on my first ever coat of it on my amp rack this afternoon. Wow! I sprayed on a flat black from aerosol as recomended by many on here first. Thinned the Dtex down, and applied it gently with a generic 100mm foam roller.

It is everthing I hoped it would be and more - beautiful.