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Which amp to use with a T-18, with recommended MCM 8” driver (home theater application) - small room (15x18)?
If you followed my saga elsewhere, you might know that I am returning to vendor a defective Dayton 240 watt amp.
Now I discover Dayton is making some changes and only a 240 watt with bass boost is available now. Otherwise I must wait till April to get a non-bass boost Dayton 240 watt plate amp.
Would the Bash 300 watt be as good or better choice? Or should I even consider the Dayton 250 Watt, or something else?
Also I see mention of the O-Audio vs another brand at Parts-Express, is there a preference for brands?
I am open to suggestions. Thanks.

Satisfaction has been found with any of those amps. I don't remember any complaints, so, it's up to you!

:Can you not turn off bass boost?

Gregory East wrote::Can you not turn off bass boost?

With the model they have in stock - there is no switch. I was told I could modify it by changing some resisitors. Not exactly what I wanted to do. I hate to get something then immediately start messing with it. And I susppose it would void the warranty (technically).

Strange, I just had trouble with a new Dayton 240 watt sub amp too. Same story - they no longer manufacture that amp but a new model will be coming out. My amp was new and would shut down in less than a minute of use running a THT Dayton 15" DVC (4 ohm load) at moderate level. I could connect the THT to a BASH 500 or an old Jamo 110 watt sub amp and they would perform perfectly. PE tested the amp and determined it was fine. So I just returned it and paid the extra $20 for the BASH 300.

What was wrong with your amp?

Oh, and I think the Dayton 240 would be overkill for that poor little MCM driver. 100 watts would be about all it can take.

67baja wrote:Strange, I just had trouble with a new Dayton 240 watt sub amp too. Same story - they no longer manufacture that amp but a new model will be coming out. My amp was new and would shut down in less than a minute of use running a THT Dayton 15" DVC (4 ohm load) at moderate level. I could connect the THT to a BASH 500 or an old Jamo 110 watt sub amp and they would perform perfectly. PE tested the amp and determined it was fine. So I just returned it and paid the extra $20 for the BASH 300.

What was wrong with your amp?

The problem I had was a hum (with no input to the amp). In other words - the only connections were power to the AMP, and the AMP connected to the speaker, there was a hum.

67baja wrote:Oh, and I think the Dayton 240 would be overkill for that poor little MCM driver. 100 watts would be about all it can take.

This is what I have been wondering (also). Is 240 Watts overkill? Would 100 or so do. I don't mind spending a litttle extra. In fact - with the 240 W Dayton connected and watching a bust-em-up, shoot-em-up movie, the sound was great (aside from the hum).

I'm running http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-784 with my TAT with the same driver and it's more than enough for my situation.

67baja wrote:Strange, I just had trouble with a new Dayton 240 watt sub amp too ... So I just returned it and paid the extra $20 for the BASH 300.

What was wrong with your amp?

Just got in my replacement amp. Also a Bash 300. I am in business. Maybe it is my imagination - but is sound better than with the Dayton 240 Watt unit. (That really does have to be my imagination).

But anyway...no hum now. I will point out that the Bash 300 only has a 2-line power cord. But, in this case, that did not appear to be the cause of the hum anyway (at least as far as I can tell).

wallywally wrote:I'm running http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-784 with my TAT with the same driver and it's more than enough for my situation.

Thanks for the advice. By the time I read your post - my new amps was already on the way. I proably spent way more than needed by getting such a large amp (BASH 300) - but you never know - there may be a bigger project in the pipeline and I would be ok.

I realize I'm reviving a dead thread here, but I have the same basic question with a little variation.

After seeing someone else post their experience using a single Tuba18 for a pro DJ event, I am thinking a herd of these might be a good choice. For small events where I didn't need incredible output, I could use just one and the size of one is great.

The problem I see is, the driver is a low power rated 4 ohm driver. For pro rackmount amps, I would think I'd want power between about 180w and 240w based on the driver specs. There aren't any usual suspect pro amps I know rated that low unless I pulled out my old Peavey CS800 but it is very heavy and that isn't where I want to go with this.

The Dayton plate amps at PE don't have XLR inputs which I would insist upon and the 240w version doesn't seem to be available.

With an 8 ohm driver, I could put two subs per channel but that isn't going to work mainly because the MCM is a 4 ohm.

So barring finding an appropriate 8 ohm driver what pro rackmount amps deliver 180-240w @ 4 ohms?

Doing a little digging, I found what I think might be a good solution for 1 to 4 T18's with the MCM driver.

Electro-Voice PA series PA4150L

Since it would be in a rack, If I got this I would use a an active rackmount mixer/splitter in the rack and all the outputs would be XLR to Phoenix cables. A 4u rack would handle the whole thing with 1u for a power strip.

beeherd wrote:Doing a little digging, I found what I think might be a good solution for 1 to 4 T18's with the MCM driver.

Electro-Voice PA series PA4150L

Since it would be in a rack, If I got this I would use a an active rackmount mixer/splitter in the rack and all the outputs would be XLR to Phoenix cables. A 4u rack would handle the whole thing with 1u for a power strip.

For the price, you could buy 2 IPR1600s, and have more power and less weight.

BrentEvans wrote:

beeherd wrote:Doing a little digging, I found what I think might be a good solution for 1 to 4 T18's with the MCM driver.

Electro-Voice PA series PA4150L

Since it would be in a rack, If I got this I would use a an active rackmount mixer/splitter in the rack and all the outputs would be XLR to Phoenix cables. A 4u rack would handle the whole thing with 1u for a power strip.

For the price, you could buy 2 IPR1600s, and have more power and less weight.

The IPR1600 is the least powerful of the IPR's and its output is about 4x the RMS power handling at 4 ohms of the MCM rating. I want my amp to have no more than 2x RMS aka 1x program. Too much risk of a blown driver otherwise. If there were 8 ohm versions available, no problem.