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ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 5:11 am
by osse
Hey ppl, the price difference here in Europe is huge between ipr 1600 and 3000 and I bought a ipr 1600 to see how well it could drive my 3012lf's. Turns out it delivers 55 vrms before going into ddt(funny as it claims 40 volts on the box), would the extra headroom of the 3000 be worth the more than twice price??
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:32 am
by BrentEvans
That extra 5v before the 3012 voltage limit would be barely audible.
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:36 pm
by DJPhatman
Are you bridging the 1600?
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:03 pm
by osse
DJPhatman wrote:Are you bridging the 1600?
Nope! Would it benifit? how do I do this?
I mean, as long as the amp can give a little above 50vRMS for long durations of time... would I have any benifit of going stronger amp? will one amp sound louder than the other with both limited at 50 volts?
Also, does it matter how many cabs I add to it? would it drive 2 or 3 cabs with 55vRMS on each side too?
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:20 pm
by AntonZ
osse wrote:how do I do this?
Not. Do not bridge. Your amp is giving almost max voltage already for your cabs.
would it drive 2 or 3 cabs with 55vRMS on each side too?
It would drive two Titans per side comfortably (assuming 8 ohm drivers). Three is within specs as well, but I would prefer to not drive my amps under 4 ohms on a regular basis. Three Titans parallel on a single channel would be near 3 ohm. Can be done, is within specs, I wouldn't do it. The IPR's are supposedly solid, but all amps lives longer if you don't drive them "balls to the wall".
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:33 pm
by BrentEvans
DJPhatman wrote:Are you bridging the 1600?
IPR series is not bridgeable without some creative engineering.
Bridging an IPR 1600
Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:38 pm
by wcriley
Creative engineering:
1) Connect the input signal to channel A.
2) Use a TRS (balanced) cable to connect from the 'Thru' out of channel 'A' to the 'B' Channel input.
3) Then use two Neutrik speakon connectors with the positive speaker wire connected to a Speakon connected to channel 'A' positive (i.e. wired to 1+) and the negative speaker wire connected to a Speakon plugged into channel 'B' wired to negative (i.e. 1-).
Re: Bridging an IPR 1600
Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 7:56 pm
by BrentEvans
wcriley wrote:Creative engineering:
1) Connect the input signal to channel A.
2) Use a TRS (balanced) cable to connect from the 'Thru' out of channel 'A' to the 'B' Channel input.
3) Then use two Neutrik speakon connectors with the positive speaker wire connected to a Speakon connected to channel 'A' positive (i.e. wired to 1+) and the negative speaker wire connected to a Speakon plugged into channel 'B' wired tyouo negative (i.e. 1-).
No... You would have to reverse the polarity of the input to channel 2 and wire the negative speaker lead to 2+. The manual wwarns against bridging though.
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:16 am
by wcriley
Interesting. I guess I need to research this further.
My info came from Peavey's Power Amp forum. I recall reading there that the channel inputs have reversed polarity. But I'm basing that on memory from a year or more ago...and my memory isn't what it used to be.
I don't think the manual for my 1600 mentions bridging at all, let alone warning against it. I
have read (on the Peavey forum) that the 4500 and 6000 can't be bridged.
Re: ipr 1600 vs 3000 performance
Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:36 am
by Rune Bivrin
wcriley wrote:Interesting. I guess I need to research this further.
My info came from Peavey's Power Amp forum. I recall reading there that the channel inputs have reversed polarity. But I'm basing that on memory from a year or more ago...and my memory isn't what it used to be.
It's quite possibly true. By reversing the inputs
and outputs on one channel the two channels will utilize opposite sides of the power supply polarities, which reduces power supply pumping quite a bit. This can be a good thing if the power supply is somewhat marginal.
If this is how it's done it's actually quite correct to go from +1 on one channel to -1 on the other. You just have to chose the correct combination; switching the channels will leave you with two ground connections to the speakers.
And remember, bridging is rarely a good thing.