BillFitzmaurice.info

Here's a build thread for four DR250s to be installed at our church which seats around 500.
Early question: What's the size of the slot in the throat horn supports? Plans say, 2"...survey says...woops, j/k; erm, Sketchup says 2.25". And, what's the slot for? Later on it is sealed off with the reflectors so, is it for extra and required internal volume?

thanks,
Dana (rip of ripNdeb)

ripNdeb wrote: And, what's the slot for? Later on it is sealed off with the reflectors so, is it for extra and required internal volume?

thanks,
Dana (rip of ripNdeb)

Yes, Internal Volume.

2" Wide Slot in the Horn Support.

3" Wide Slot in the Baffle.

In the nine months I've been at this I never would've imagined I'd be tackling four DR250s. If I can do it.....etc.

Here's my quick and dirty zero clearance 10 degree sled for the throat horn sides. It's a little awkward to clamp and then secure on the work bench but was quite effective. This was taken just after the cut:


And, this shows the underside of the setup:


And here it is clamped to my Walmart tote workbench (after the cut):


I'm glad there is only one of these (divider) per cab:


Here's a fairly quick setup for the 3 degree trim with some misc. scrap to support the saw over on the right:




And here is what just has to put a smile on every BF builders face:


And, here is my question of the day: I've got 20 holes/slots to cut out. What are your tips/methods/ideas for making these cutouts in the throat horn supports and in the baffles?

Thanks,
Dana

They don't have to be pretty. I do a rising table saw cut for the long sides, finish with a jigsaw. You could plunge cut the long sides with your skilsaw.

LelandCrooks wrote:They don't have to be pretty. I do a rising table saw cut for the long sides, finish with a jigsaw..

+1

LelandCrooks wrote:They don't have to be pretty. I do a rising table saw cut for the long sides, finish with a jigsaw. You could plunge cut the long sides with your skilsaw.

Swingin'! Even on my little Craftsman. Thanks guys

Quick question:
I've got a little jig that makes near perfect melded arrays; I first used it for a pair of OTops. I say near perfect because each one comes out to 1-7/8" high instead of the 2" as suggested in the plans. So, the array will come out over an inch shorter. Can I just make the top and bottom flanges a tad larger to compensate or should I adjust/remake the jig?

Oh, and more pics coming. I'm very pleased with the progress - even as slow as it has been

ripNdeb wrote:Quick question:
I've got a little jig that makes near perfect melded arrays; I first used it for a pair of OTops. I say near perfect because each one comes out to 1-7/8" high instead of the 2" as suggested in the plans. So, the array will come out over an inch shorter. Can I just make the top and bottom flanges a tad larger to compensate or should I adjust/remake the jig?

Oh, and more pics coming. I'm very pleased with the progress - even as slow as it has been

I would shim the jig 1/16 so there is a minimal gap between elements when stacking units.

IF you can, try adjust the jig. This will allow better integration of the tweets between each cab. Each cab by itself would be OK, it's the difference when adding cabs that I'm trying to get across.

Jig adjusted, perfect 2" thanks guys!
Now, my next question is this: All the tweets Leland sent me sound marvelous so could I simply hot glue around the element housing for the airtight seal? Seems like if one went bad, it could be taken off with some effort if necessary - at least far less effort than disassembling them all and trying to seal them in that tiny space around the flange. Any thoughts or techniques on this?

ripNdeb wrote:Jig adjusted, perfect 2" thanks guys!
Now, my next question is this: All the tweets Leland sent me sound marvelous so could I simply hot glue around the element housing for the airtight seal? Seems like if one went bad, it could be taken off with some effort if necessary - at least far less effort than disassembling them all and trying to seal them in that tiny space around the flange. Any thoughts or techniques on this?

old school rubber cement after cutting and testing, prior to array assembly.

Reviving an old thread with a quick question: What sort of glue for the throat filler - the kind of throat fillers Leland sells for the 250? PL work OK for that? I've been taking pics so they'll be up someday Health issues brought construction to a halt for a few months.
Thanks,
Dana

edit: Oh, and one of the little metal connectors came loose on one of the tweets. It still seems to be connected but has definitely come apart from the housing. Would a little epoxy take care of that or perhaps just cover it up with ABS?

I too am building 4 DR250's But I think you are about 2 steps ahead of me in the build process. I will be watching this thread. If I can help with anything let me know.

You could probably glue it back, but I'd replace it. They're not much fun to get to after you finish a DR.

Hot glue on the throat fillers.

Been on and off for quite a while now; health issues, life issues. I've gone from 4 DR250s to two and now just trying to get ONE finished 'till I get more $$$ for more excellent kits from Leland.
Just the usual stuff you've seen before: gluing on the braces to the baffles and beginning the drawing and layout of the top/bottom


This actually one of my favorite parts - measuring, drawing, checking, double checking.




More tomorrow; gettin' sleepy here. Too much photo resizing, uploading, posting. One of the difficult parts of the build