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				dr 200
				Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 9:05 pm
				by Scott Brochu
				
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:06 am
				by sstillwell
				Yay!  Keep 'em coming!
  
 
Scott
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:40 am
				by Scott Brochu
				
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:09 am
				by sstillwell
				Nice routing on the recessed handles.
Looks "Pro". 
 
Build all done except for paint+duratex and assembly of speakers+hardware?
Scott
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 9:05 pm
				by Scott Brochu
				
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 9:35 pm
				by bassmonster
				Nice work!  Looks great.  

 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:58 pm
				by J_Dunavin
				NICE! Love the finish job! 
Are those handles from Leland?
Is that a six pack??
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:06 pm
				by sstillwell
				Four to go along with the two I already have.
I'm a happy camper...can't wait to get 'em and make some noise!
The extra boards sitting loose inside the cabinets are pre-cut baffles for me to mount Dayton PT2C-8 ribbons in.  The NL4s in the back are already wired for biamp...just have to cut the holes for the tweets and switch things around.  I've got enough ribbons (4) for a pair of the boxes...if it sounds as good as I expect it to, I'll "upgrade" the remaining boxes as well.
Nice to be able to have the best of both worlds...melded arrays for sheer volume, and ribbons for articulation.
 
 
 
Scott
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:08 pm
				by sstillwell
				Note:  most of the time I'll be using either one or two pair of the ones pictured here...the third pair is strictly for outdoor gigs where I need more distance and volume than I can cover otherwise.
Or to rent out for multiple systems. 
 
Scott
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:10 pm
				by J_Dunavin
				I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:58 am
				by sstillwell
				J_Dunavin wrote:I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
You're biamping with piezos?  What crossover freq/slope?  What passive components are you using (in other words, does the passive crossover get bypassed when you biamp?)
Scott
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:12 am
				by GirlyHandedDog
				sstillwell wrote:J_Dunavin wrote:I'm bi amping my four pack and love it. I'm interested to see how you'll like all six of yours.
You're biamping with piezos?  What crossover freq/slope?  What passive components are you using (in other words, does the passive crossover get bypassed when you biamp?)
Scott
 
Most people bi-amp so they can use active components and get a bit more output in high volume situations.  It would be a waste to use passive components while bi-amping... unless you're using ribbons that require a passive x-over.
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:17 am
				by sstillwell
				Well, for piezos you at least need to have resistors on their to make sure the impedance at high frequencies doesn't drop too low...that can cause some power amps to go into oscillation and burn out.  Not too common any more, but worth protecting against.
It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal.  Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.
Scott
			 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:26 am
				by GirlyHandedDog
				sstillwell wrote:
Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.
Scott
Yeah, that's what an active crossover does.  Ribbons must be run with a passive filter, "ANY other HF component" doesn't, as active will work fine.
sstillwell wrote:
It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal.
Unless you're just plugging things in willy-nilly and crossing your fingers hoping that it works,  you don't need to add a capacitor.  I pay attention when I wire things.  If you're making speakers for an AV club at a high school, that's a different story.
 
			
					
				Re: dr 200
				Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:38 am
				by sstillwell
				GirlyHandedDog wrote:sstillwell wrote:
Piezos won't care much, but ANY other HF component needs protection against LF...not just ribbons.
Scott
Yeah, that's what an active crossover does.  Ribbons must be run with a passive filter, "ANY other HF component" doesn't, as active will work fine.
sstillwell wrote:
It's also fairly common to leave at least a capacitor in series with the HF components to protect against being inadvertently wired to a LF or full-range signal.
Unless you're just plugging things in willy-nilly and crossing your fingers hoping that it works,  you don't need to add a capacitor.  I pay attention when I wire things.  If you're making speakers for an AV club at a high school, that's a different story.
 
That's fine if you're always the one hooking up the gear.  If you're in a rental environment you can NOT count on things being connected correctly 100% of the time.
I didn't say it was "required", I said that it was "fairly common".  If your active crossover is properly set, you don't need any passive components on ribbons either...IF you are sure everything is wired and set correctly.
Scott