BillFitzmaurice.info

Hey everyone!

I just put the side on my Tuba HT yesterday (around two weeks after I ordered the plans)! This is the first enclosure I've ever built, so it definitely is not perfect and putting the side on was one the worst part of the whole build (just knowing that there is a chance that the PL may not sealed a section). I started out wanting to build a sealed box, then decided on a ported box, and then found Myn's thread and ordered the plans as soon as I finished reading his thread.

Today I took off all of the clamps and the couple hundred pounds of weights I had on top of it (letting it cure for about 30 hours) and now I'm trying to decide on the best way to finish it. I am thinking of sanding it, followed by black latex, and then finishing it off with duratex paint. But I was wanting to ask if there is another textured paint that is recommended instead of duratex? I'm willing to buy duratex, just would prefer something that I could buy locally. But if I'm better off with duratex, then I'll definitely go ahead and order it.

I also started straightening out the edges (I had cut the side so it had some over hang just in case), but I ran into some bad luck. The screw that holds the bearing on came undone when I was going over the top edge and caused my router to slightly mess up on of the edges Luckily my Bondo will be coming in on Wednesday, so I shouldn't have any troubles filling it in. So, after getting all of the edges fairly straight, I was thinking of going over them with a round over bit, but I'm pretty nervous about messing up and ruining the whole project. Is there any good looking trim that I could put over the edges in case I mess up? I've been practicing on random scrap pieces of wood, but would like to have a back up plan just in case...

Also, is it ok to remove all of the screws around the edges? I really hate to remove them, but I will need to if I used the round over bit. I'm sure it is but just want to be safe

And I have one word of advise for anyone starting this build for the first time, don't accidently use your panel cover as scrap wood and make a brace out of it


Here is a few pictures if anyone is interested:

That's a lot of questions but here are some answers. I may miss some stuff.

Yes you can take out the screws.

Yes round over the edges.

I wouldn't add trim, but that's your choice. You can find some if you want at any lumber store.

As far as a local replacement for Duratex...where are you located? I doubt you can find anything better than Duratex. It is easy to apply, tough and doesn't give off fumes during application or curing.

Always check your bearing on router bits before using them, but I bet you know that now...

You aren't the first or last to cut up your access cover to make a part. Mark it on both sides after you cut it and it won't happen again.

Thanks for all of your help! And I am definitely going to start checking the bearings after each side.

I'm going to take your advice and use the round over bit after I finish filling in all of the holes and order some duratex later today!

Thanks again for your help.

elementfbl114 wrote:Thanks for all of your help! And I am definitely going to start checking the bearings after each side.

No problem.

You shouldn't have to check the bearing after each side, just check it when it's time to put it in the router. It's not going to come loose that quickly.

Also, put your general location in your profile so people know where you are from.

The screw that holds the bearing on came off again last night when I was going over the edges I replaced the screw and it seems to be holding better now.

I also ordered duratex from Speaker Hardware yesterday and it should be coming in today since I live so close (Missouri)! I actually paid for 2 day shipping, but since I live so close, the guys at Speaker Hardware changed my shipping to the cheapest shipping method and refunded me the difference They seam to be a really great company and will definitely be going back there again for future builds.

elementfbl114 wrote:They seam to be a really great company and will definitely be going back there again for future builds.

+100000

Anyplace within 2 or 300 miles is overnight on standard ground.
Freight costs are a real sticky thing with me. I try to keep them as cheap as possible.

I messed up and was about to ask what impact it would have on the over all sound of the Tuba HT. Looking to see if some one had already asked this, I happened to see the picture of this build and he did the same thing and I doubt he even realized that he messed up as well. You can see, on the last picture, that this baffle is turned around 180 degrees. So the question is; what impact will having the baffle turned around 180 degrees so that the driver is closer to the front of the enclosure, by about 5", then what the plans call for?

Do I really need to rip it out and turn it around or is this mess-up one that will not be noticed with this forgiving design?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Flashjet

So long as the driver can be fitted it should be fine, would be my guess, you got t-nuts already mounted?

Gregory East wrote:So long as the driver can be fitted it should be fine, would be my guess, you got t-nuts already mounted?

Yes, the t-nuts are in place and epoxied so I think I will be fine as the drive will fit.

I have found two other pictures in different threads with same mistake and they didn't mention it either, so I am guessing that it is a common mistake and one that has little or no negative end result in the sound quality.

Thanks,
Flashjet

elementfbl114 wrote:The screw that holds the bearing on came off again last night when I was going over the edges

I used to have that happen with 1/4" collet bits, but never with 1/2" collet. They run much smoother and cooler, and with 2HP behind them never bog down. The only thing I use my old 1/4" router for now is cutting holes and radius cuts with a 1/4" spiral bit.