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If I have 2 X 12" loaded 27" tuba 30 = 10 ohm load then I would need an amp 1200 watts at 8 ohm, what happens to the 10 ohm load this power rating now becomes 1000 watts or less? just curious building 4 cabs per side/ 2 amps???

djlivex wrote:If I have 2 X 12" loaded 27" tuba 30 = 10 ohm load then I would need an amp 1200 watts at 8 ohm, what happens to the 10 ohm load this power rating now becomes 1000 watts or less? just curious building 4 cabs per side/ 2 amps???

Watts Mean Nothing!
Limit what matters, the amp's output voltage, per the plans. If considering a purchase check the amp specs for maximum voltage output. No specs? No sale.

looking at amps on ebay and a distributor for crest amps. I guess I am getting ahead of myself will check voltage output before hooking up. Thanks!

Bill, having scoured both Crown and QSC websites - I can find no mention of output voltage in their manuals or spec sheets. Short of taking a volt meter into a store and firing it up, how do you suggest finding the voltage of an amp prior to purchasing?

Bruce Weldy wrote:Bill, having scoured both Crown and QSC websites - I can find no mention of output voltage in their manuals or spec sheets. Short of taking a volt meter into a store and firing it up, how do you suggest finding the voltage of an amp prior to purchasing?

QSC used to, perhaps they ceased doing so. Anyway, take the RMS rated output into 8 ohms, mutiply it by 8, the square root of the product is the amps voltage swing capacity. 400 watts is therefore 56 volts. Ignore peak watts and other such marketing crap, and lower impedance load ratings. Compare the voltage capability to your limiting voltage, you want the amp to have that much plus a bit for headroom. A lot more is wasted capacity since you won't use it anyway.

Unless you used it to toast your drivers.

Dave Non-Zero wrote:Unless you used it to toast your drivers.

edit: Hey Dave, are you gonna post a 280 build thread?