BillFitzmaurice.info

Building these to replace Yamaha SM15Vs for monitors. The Yamahas are fine, but heavy. I'm hoping the WH10 will be much lighter....

The panels were all cut a few weeks ago when I was cutting the OT12s that were just finished. Had a few easy bevel cuts to finish up, along with braces, baffle, and strips for attaching the covers.

After cutting the hole in the baffle, I traced the outline of the speaker ring on it and knocked off the corners with a jigsaw. Then I used double-sided tape to attach the speaker ring and used a router with a bottom bearing to trim to size. Here's what three stacks of WH10 parts look like... Time to start gluing 'em up......

Started assembly this morning...

Used the "W" jogs to hold the braces perpendicular while gluing and nailing. Braces all done.....the picture makes it look like night. It was taken at 10am this morning. Big storm coming through central Texas. Really dark, wind, rain, and maybe hail.....I love it! We're in a drought and can use the rain - probably won't be enough though. More in a little while....

One shell done....two to go.

Three shells done.....cut the parts for the handhold pockets.

Probably won't get to touch 'em again until Monday. Three day golf tournament starts tomorrow. It'd cost less and be less frustrating to stay home and work on monitors.....oh well.....

Thats looking good Bruce, keeper coming.

Back at it....

Built the boxes for the handholds and installed them last night. Cut the ports in the horn sides with a hole saw then used a router to round over the edges. Next up - opening up the handholds from the outside. First, drilling access holes.

I used a jig saw to open the holes bigger. I didn't want to try and hog out all that material with the router. Used the router with a bottom bearing bit the flush up the opening with the inside box. Then, finished up by rounding over the edges.

Went off the reservation here a bit....

Decided to put all four horn sides together before attaching the baffle. Attached the two sides with the horn jig as per the plans, then used some 2 1/2" spacers - along with marking the horn bottom and top so they would line up correctly. Then, I removed the jig and used the spacers along with a clamp to keep the top exactly the right width apart. The reason I did this is that the jig is hard to align so that the width is exactly right. I just made sure that the bottom panel was correct, then used the spacer for the top. This created a really nice flat surface to attach the baffle.

Next, I put the pet screen on the baffle instead of the horn. This made it easy to stretch and keep the staples out of the way. Then the baffle was glued and nailed in place along with the spacer ring. Next up is fitting the horn to the shells with a setback for the grills.

Man, trimming the horn to fit in the shell is very tedious. Finally got it to fit and because I'm putting grills on, I've got to cut the horn back some.

I ran screws through the shell to hold the horn in place. Used the plies as my measuring device...left 6 sticking out. Then used a router bit with a top bearing to trim the horn flush with the shell. One side left to go.... Now here's the real problem....there is no room to get screws back there to hold the driver. Working with Leland for a fix. Looks like it will have to be T-nuts as the recex screws just ain't gonna fit.

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Now here's the real problem....there is no room to get screws back there to hold the driver.

There is, but you have to pre-drill pilots before assembling the cab, and use a right-angle driver or 1/4" socket wrench to get at them. What works best is a 1/4" socket on a u-joint at the end of a long extension on the ratchet.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Now here's the real problem....there is no room to get screws back there to hold the driver.

There is, but you have to pre-drill pilots before assembling the cab, and use a right-angle driver or 1/4" socket wrench to get at them. What works best is a 1/4" socket on a u-joint at the end of a long extension on the ratchet.

Do you mean to do that with a square head bit and use the recex screws? Or, go with t-nuts?

Bruce Weldy wrote:

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:
Now here's the real problem....there is no room to get screws back there to hold the driver.

There is, but you have to pre-drill pilots before assembling the cab, and use a right-angle driver or 1/4" socket wrench to get at them. What works best is a 1/4" socket on a u-joint at the end of a long extension on the ratchet.

Do you mean to do that with a square head bit and use the recex screws? Or, go with t-nuts?

Screws.

I always say you can't have too many tools....but, I'm beginning to wonder. Drove away from the house to go find a long extension and a u-joint for my 1/4" drive. A couple of blocks away, I thought hmmmmm....maybe I'd better do some checking before I go buy something.

Sure enough, I had a long extension and a u-joint in a little case that I had gotten from my dad when he died....I guess I ought to do an inventory some day. I'm always coming across stuff that I forgot that I have.

So, to make a short story long - I think I can make the recex screws work. I did drill the holes at an angle to make it a little easier to get back in there.

Now to get the horns glued in.