BillFitzmaurice.info

Ok, just getting started with my standard THT sub...

using the MFW-15 driver and getting Baltic Birch Plywood for the wood...

grabbing some wood nails to use instead of screws for the case (much handier than using wood screws)

will start the cuts on Monday when I have time....

1 1/4" pneumatic brad nailer FTW!

DJPhatman wrote:1 1/4" pneumatic brad nailer FTW!

yeah, my buddy has one of those.... we're gonna grab some 1 1/4 brads and use those puppies

Don't get ace brand brads for the nailer. Not strong enough for the BB. Had serious trouble with them going everywhere. Get name brand higher end brads for your BB builds. Trust me and the pain my fingers suffered with them ACE brand making a 80 degree turn and hitting my fingers instead of going straight in.

Just a friendly warning. Think we use Bostich now.

ewetho wrote:Don't get ace brand brads for the nailer. Not strong enough for the BB. Had serious trouble with them going everywhere. Get name brand higher end brads for your BB builds. Trust me and the pain my fingers suffered with them ACE brand making a 80 degree turn and hitting my fingers instead of going straight in.

Just a friendly warning. Think we use Bostich now.

thanks for the warning. Bostwich I'll keep an eye out for. any other good brands to look for?

See your hardware store tool guy and ask for the pro level stuff and tell him (her) you are working in hardwood.

The current ones we have for building are Porter Cable! We have also used the previously mentioned Bostich. Stay way away from the Ace though.

The key to using a brad nailer with birch is a good quality gun and plenty of pressure. With sufficient velocity even a soft lead bullet goes through birch quite easily.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:The key to using a brad nailer with birch is a good quality gun and plenty of pressure. With sufficient velocity even a soft lead bullet goes through birch quite easily.

sweet. that I've got covered. Makita brand pro brad nailer can launch through over 2 inch nails/brads without blinking so I'm set... now I just gotta wait for the MFW-15 drivers to come in... and of course choose a powerful enough amp (was thinking of the PE 240 watt plate then remembered that it doesn't get more than 150watts in reality)..... deciding to go pro or get a good 300-500 watt plate...

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:The key to using a brad nailer with birch is a good quality gun and plenty of pressure. With sufficient velocity even a soft lead bullet goes through birch quite easily.

You would think. With the two brands we get them to seat consistently 1/8" below the surface with no issues at all, but ACE branded ones come out the sides at random and at will. Just no idea where they are going. Unload the gun and go back to the other brads and all is well. No more ACE brand for us.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:The key to using a brad nailer with birch is a good quality gun and plenty of pressure. With sufficient velocity even a soft lead bullet goes through birch quite easily.

Not quite,Bill, with all due respect. That "soft lead bullet" won't pentrate straight and true if it has the dimensions of a pin rather than a fat bullet. Ewetho and I use a high quality nailer and a shop compressor capable of running auto body equipment and a pneumatic car hoist. I have the scars on my knuckles from cheap brads and have had to pry one brad out of a bone. I have ONLY had that issue with the lame A$$ Ace Hardware Brand we got in a hurry. Now I use highest quality I can find mostly Porter Cable or Bostich.

oooofffffffffff, first day... got the Baltic birch from the lumber yard. my buddy and I used the circular saw and after a little trial and error got out the main panel. marked everything and cut out the access panel... got to wait till Sunday when he gets back and we'll take the rest of the cuts to the University of Arizona and use their panel saw to make EASY cuts... very stressful day


and just to make sure I'm reading the plan right... for panel one it says to make a 10 degree angled cut on one side????

wormraper wrote:
and just to make sure I'm reading the plan right... for panel one it says to make a 10 degree angled cut on one side????

What do you see in the Sketchup model?

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

wormraper wrote:
and just to make sure I'm reading the plan right... for panel one it says to make a 10 degree angled cut on one side????

What do you see in the Sketchup model?

lol, took me a bit but I finally was able to see it in the sketchup when I used the blue overlay for height, width etc...

We went down the UofA prop shop with his girlfriend (manager of the prop shop) and we did all the cuts (except for like 3 panels) there... tomorrow we start gluing on the panels... The drivers got held up in Texas due to weather so they get here on on Monday... then we'll work on panel 3.

ok, pictures will come once I can upload them. but we installed panels 1 and 2 today and got them clamped down.