BillFitzmaurice.info

myn wrote:This bracing reminds of of that kids game "Operation. In this case the goal is not to get the PL all over your cabinet!

I like the analogy! I also hate getting PL all over, but, as I said recently (and someone has picked in up in the signature), we've got to learn to accept that well-braced and airtight is more important than being pretty on the inside.

myn wrote:EDIT: There is something wrong with the [IMG] inline referencing. Submitting a post with an inline pic fails.

I had the same problem all day yesterday (although I didn't realize that the image had anything to do with it since I never tried posting without the image). It seems to have been resolved, however, as I posted an image using the [IMG] tag this morning.

[== 07/09/2009 ==]

With panel 7 now installed I can see the end of this build finally!

I've begun to notice that some of my panels aren't exactly the same width (23.5") width. Some are out a 1/16th of an inch (see macro photos below). What do you guys do to get them even? Sanding or lots of PL or ?

Ooh...did you not cut all the panels to the same width all in one shot on the table saw?

Well, at this point, it doesn't really matter. Do take a power planer (if you have one, AND know how to use it) to take the high ones down evenly. If not, a very sharp bench plane or jointer plane should work, and less possibility for mistakes, but more elbow grease. Sanding can work, but can also leave you with waviness and unwanted bevels/rounds in the panels....

Did you not see the un-even problems as you were dry-fitting the parts? Definitely make sure after you have evened out the problems that the rest of your panel stock is all the same width, and it matches what is already on the box...

Best of luck. This is not a situation I would want to be in, but with some work, you'll end up OK.

JSS

myn wrote:I've begun to notice that some of my panels aren't exactly the same width (23.5") width. Some are out a 1/16th of an inch (see macro photos below). What do you guys do to get them even? Sanding or lots of PL or ?

I ran into that issue with a couple of the panels on my T39's. I cut almost all of them in one session on the table saw, but there were a couple that were done later, and they were off just a bit (note to self--never do that again!). What I did was use a sanding disc attachment on my corded drill and took them down to where they were even with the others. I took them down just a little at a time and used a straight edge laid over the top of the panel edges to see when they were OK. There was a little waviness and unevenness, but nothing that PL can't fix. All turned out well in the end.

maxmercy wrote:Ooh...did you not cut all the panels to the same width all in one shot on the table saw?

Well, at this point, it doesn't really matter. Do take a power planer (if you have one, AND know how to use it) to take the high ones down evenly. If not, a very sharp bench plane or jointer plane should work, and less possibility for mistakes, but more elbow grease. Sanding can work, but can also leave you with waviness and unwanted bevels/rounds in the panels....

Did you not see the un-even problems as you were dry-fitting the parts? Definitely make sure after you have evened out the problems that the rest of your panel stock is all the same width, and it matches what is already on the box...

Best of luck. This is not a situation I would want to be in, but with some work, you'll end up OK.

JSS

I think those macro shots make it look worst than it is. Regardless, It's still out at least 1/16th.

I've used a circular saw for everything including the long rip cuts length wise to get as many of the panels the same width as possible.

It appears that all of the panels EXCEPT for panel 1 are dead on same width. Note that the macro photo shows Panel 1 and the adjacent panels. I wonder if I cut a very very thin 1/16th of an inch strip and bind it to the top of panel 1? Or maybe there is something else that could fill the gap? 1/2" Veneer end strips maybe? I'm thinking planing all of the others down would be worst than just building up the single panel that is not as wide?

Now I'm worried

Ideas are appreciated.

So, are you saying that the one panel that's off is 1/16th too short? If that's the case, there is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you've got good PL squeeze out when you attach the size, and you're set. PL will easily fill a gap of 1/16th.

Worried? About what? On the side of the PL tube it says "fills gaps to 3/8" !!!

I've built a Wedgehorn and an Autotuba... I was glad all my cuts were within 1/16" !!!

IMHO you will be fine... Fageddabout it...

"I wonder if I cut a very very thin 1/16th of an inch strip and bind it to the top of panel 1?"

Careful cutting that 1/16" strip....

In your case, that is exactly what I would do. Test fit well, use wood glue (roll it on, or squeegee if you are good, if possible to minimize squeeze out), lots of clamps, go back and 'caulk' the joint with PL if you are paranoid. Do not wipe the wood glue excess after clamping on the outside edge, just scrape off the beads later. Cleaner joint that way if you want to finish the cab nice.

If you are gonna paint the sucker, by all means let the PL do the work.

Small setback; you'll be up and running again soon.

JSS

David Carter wrote:So, are you saying that the one panel that's off is 1/16th too short? If that's the case, there is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you've got good PL squeeze out when you attach the size, and you're set. PL will easily fill a gap of 1/16th.

+1 (or is that +2?)

myn wrote:[== 07/09/2009 ==]
With panel 7 now installed I can see the end of this build finally!

It has been my (limited) experience that with all panels installed, you are about 50% there.

djohnson573 wrote:

myn wrote:[== 07/09/2009 ==]
With panel 7 now installed I can see the end of this build finally!

It has been my (limited) experience that with all panels installed, you are about 50% there.

Really?

I guess there is the finishing steps (sanding, duratex, hardware assembly, driver install + wiring, access panel + flanges install).

That about cover it?

How is everyone testing for air leaks? soapy water?

myn wrote:How is everyone testing for air leaks? soapy water?

i have a 3-4 foot length of clear plastic tubing that I use like a stethoscope. I play a 30hz test tone and put one end of the tube to my ear and run the other end along all the seams where there could possibly be leaks. If there is a leak, you'll hear the air blowing out through the leaky area.

[== 07/13/2009 ==]

I finished installing the panel 2/7 braces and reflector this past weekend. Check out my funky clamping system (below)

I am seeing a trend in my usage of PL. I seem to be going crazy with it. Maybe a little overboard.. I'm hoping the PL squeezeout doesn't have any affect on the horn path.

I was making great progress on the weekend so I decided to cut out panel 8 and panel 8/9 reflector. To my dismay the 8/9 reflector was off by an 1/8th of an inch . Is there a trick everyone is using to get perfect 45 degree angle reflectors the exact length with their circular saws?

Squeeze-out is your friend.
He is telling you "no leaks here".

bgavin wrote:Squeeze-out is your friend.
He is telling you "no leaks here".

+1