Ok, l have replacement covers ordered, one the same size and one 3/16" larger in diameter, could l either remove most of the original cover and fit the new larger size, or just glue the larger one straight over the original. I'm wondering if the extra weight changes T/S parameters?Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2024 7:41 am Dust covers are easily replaced. Removing the old cover is a delicate job, you don't want to cut the cone, but it doesn't have to be 100% removed.
DR build questions
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Re: DR build questions
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
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Re: DR build questions
Extra weight will change the parameters, so the old one has to go.
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Re: DR build questions
I cued up all the neighbours songs, and let it rip for 3 hours this afternoon... still cant stop smiling! Finished up with Enter the Sandman really loud, the system not even breaking a sweat, the amps were still cold!
These DR280s would outperform my TLAPs, it's just hard to believe how! My mind has been blown with the effortlessly powerful precise bottom end, and face melting clarity of the DRs
Now to finish painting.. going to spray Duratex on the T48s, l think rolling them would take forever.
These DR280s would outperform my TLAPs, it's just hard to believe how! My mind has been blown with the effortlessly powerful precise bottom end, and face melting clarity of the DRs
Now to finish painting.. going to spray Duratex on the T48s, l think rolling them would take forever.
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
Re: DR build questions
See, now that's what I'm talking about. A simple, elegant, and stylish sledge hammer. I can tell you took that pic before you started playing it... the structure behind is still standing. LOL
I think anyone doing recorded content outdoors should consider a sub stack like that as the standard starter pack stack. You pretty much can't go wrong with that setup, unless you need to be able to transport your system in the back of your Honda Civic. Also happens to be the finisher stack for most too. Not too many of us would need more than that.
So jealous. I bet that was three hours of heaven. You didn't happen to get any video, did you?
I forget Keryn, how wide did you build your T48's?
I think anyone doing recorded content outdoors should consider a sub stack like that as the standard starter pack stack. You pretty much can't go wrong with that setup, unless you need to be able to transport your system in the back of your Honda Civic. Also happens to be the finisher stack for most too. Not too many of us would need more than that.
So jealous. I bet that was three hours of heaven. You didn't happen to get any video, did you?
I forget Keryn, how wide did you build your T48's?
Last edited by Seth on Sat Mar 09, 2024 1:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Re: DR build questions
Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 1:10 am let it rip for 3 hours this afternoon... still cant stop smiling!
face melting clarity of the DRs
In a weird way it feels quite satisfying to be able to say:
TOLD YOU SO!
Nice to see you are happy with how things are turning out. Well done mate

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Re: DR build questions
Honestly, I personally believe rolling 'em is faster. By the time you get setup to spray, do the primer coat, clean the sprayer, start the duratex, clean the sprayer so it doesn't clog between coats, etc......Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 1:10 am Now to finish painting.. going to spray Duratex on the T48s, l think rolling them would take forever.
I just wrap the roller in plastic wrap and it will stay wet overnight. No overspray. No material waste like spraying.
Now, if you have a booth already setup and spray all the time, that's a different thing. But, otherwise - I can get on primer and two coats of duratex all in a day if I need to.....and that's with drying time between. And with multiple cabs, by the time I'm through coating all of them with primer, I can start with the second coat of primer right away. I give a little drying time between coats of duratex, but it doesn't take a lot.
Either way, you can't beat duratex!
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: DR build questions
Apply Duratex outdoors on a sunnyday, let them cure in the sun, otherwise it takes days for it to fully harden.
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Re: DR build questions

It was mate, I thought about video, but I was too busy standing there with goosebumps and my jaw dropped!
One pair at 37" (3015LF) by mistake, and the other 36" (KL3015CX-8)
You were right Anton, now I know what STUPID LOUD is! Happy is an understatement, thank you, I'm still smiling today

Oh ok

That's a great tip Bruce, Duratex is $190AU a gallon here, & the large textured roller holds quite an amount of paint which when you wash it out seems like a waste. I would use a standard large roller for the primer, yea?Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 9:19 am I just wrap the roller in plastic wrap and it will stay wet overnight.
Will do Bill, thank you!Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 10:50 am Apply Duratex outdoors on a sunnyday, let them cure in the sun, otherwise it takes days for it to fully harden.
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
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Re: DR build questions
I use the 4 inch rollers that Leland sells for duratex. Much less waste and lets you get into the nooks and crannies. Here's the link to 'em.Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 5:00 pm I would use a standard large roller for the primer, yea?
https://www.speakerhardware.com/4-durat ... refill.php
I'm sure you can find this same type where you are. I think in all of the cabs I've done over the years, I've only thrown away one of those rollers. I wash 'em out with my spray nozzle on the garden hose and they are good to go again.
For primer, I just use the cheapest flat black paint I can get. You can slop it on with a roller or a brush.....I often use the foam brushes for the primer, then throw 'em away. The flat black dries so fast that I can start the second coat right away.
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Re: DR build questions
In my opinion, inconsequential mistake aside, that is the quintessential combination. It would take 9500 watts worth of amplifier and six double loaded 18" JBL's (12 drivers total) to match the long term low frequency output capability you have right there, with only four 15's and less than 2kW of amp.Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Sat Mar 09, 2024 5:00 pmOne pair at 37" (3015LF) by mistake, and the other 36" (KL3015CX-8)
Sound quality and peak output potential, I doubt there's a system in all of Australia that can match it, on a single standard (in New Zealand and Australia) 10 amp 230v wall socket/receptacle.
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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Re: DR build questions
Really? Holy... 
There's still room for another pair of each cabs on that plug!
I was pulling LF out too.. At stupid loud with a Psy Trance track playing, the limiter started to just flicker on the down beat..
There's still room for another pair of each cabs on that plug!
I was pulling LF out too.. At stupid loud with a Psy Trance track playing, the limiter started to just flicker on the down beat..
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
Re: DR build questions
Holey vintage gear Batman!
We gotta get you a Driverack!
As Grant would say... It's not optional. What are you using for a limiter?
We gotta get you a Driverack!
As Grant would say... It's not optional. What are you using for a limiter?
Build in process - 2 WH6, one Alpha 6a loaded, one PRV Audio 6MB250-NDY loaded
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
Two 2x6 shorty SLA Pro's
One T39, 16", 3012LF loaded
Tall AutoTuba, 20" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
TruckTuba, 8½" wide, 2x 8" MCM 55-2421
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- Posts: 559
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:50 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: DR build questions
Thanks Tom!
I like it retro man! Yea, l could do with an upgrade when something pops..
I did have one.. l prefer an EQ I can adjust quickly, without having to navigate digital menus. Grant used both a Driverack and an analogue EQ, which l will do at some stage.
It's a Multicom Pro XL, which is doing the job atm
AT8 14", AT10 19", T30 28" LAB12, T48 36" 3015LF, THT 20" LAB15, SLA 4x3"/4x4", CArray 6x4", TLAH, TLAP, J10 FA, J12 FA, OT8 CD, OT12 FA, OT15 CD, SLAP 2x6"/4x6", WH8, DR280 MA, XF210. Next J10L
Re: DR build questions
wow. that system looks beautiful
i bet it sounds even better
makes me want to build a 2nd T48 already

i bet it sounds even better
makes me want to build a 2nd T48 already