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kekani wrote: Off the top of my head, wouldn't one run the subs off 1 channel, and tops off the other?

Generally, yes, but I don't think Kenkenni has a DSP/crossover at all yet, which likely means he's sending full-range signal to the SLA's and sub.
I'd bet the sub has an internal crossover, but we don't know make/model specifics yet...

Sorry for the late reply. Work was calling. I do not have a DSP or cross-over, Though I did plan on getting a new amp with DSP built in.
I also thought about a DBX but I am not sure if I really need it if the SLAs already have a cross-over inside the cab. The speaker
connections are from amp to SLA, then from the SLA to the second SLA speaker, and finally from the second SLA speaker into a
powered sub. The QSC RMX 850 I have is 2-ohm stable. There are different versions of this amp also. My sub is an EV ETX 18" and
it plays well with the SLA Pros. I have the Sub gains dialed down to about -32 though because I'm testing the setup in a small room.
Even at such a low gain setting it is still putting out decent bass. It sounds really good alongside the SLAs.

@ kenkenni, the only problem with this setup so far, is that the SLA cabs are not cut off below 100 hz. That could pose to be a problem in that if too much power is put to them, a driver(s) could blow. Also, the overlap freqs between the sub and the SLAs may have a phasing problem. This is why a DSP unit is desirable.

If you're cool with your EV sub, and you're not worried about limiting a horn sub, then one of the amps with onboard DSP will do what you need. You could EQ and hi-pass the SLA's easily with that...

It's a powered sub? I looked up the specs and couldn't find a passive version...

Tom Smit wrote:@ kenkenni, the only problem with this setup so far, is that the SLA cabs are not cut off below 100 hz. That could pose to be a problem in that if too much power is put to them, a driver(s) could blow. Also, the overlap freqs between the sub and the SLAs may have a phasing problem. This is why a DSP unit is desirable.

It's not just desirable, it's mandatory.

kenkenni wrote:I also thought about a DBX but I am not sure if I really need it if the SLAs already have a cross-over inside the cab. The speaker
connections are from amp to SLA, then from the SLA to the second SLA speaker, and finally from the second SLA speaker into a
powered sub.

The crossover is internal to the SLA, unless you added one in to crossover between your tops and subs. My amp has an internal crossover which is why I asked my previous question of running subs and tops off different channels. Now that we know you have a powered sub, I guess the amp question is moot.

However, I'm trying to wrap my head around sending a powered signal from the SLA's with Speakons to a powered sub with an xlr/trs input. I must be missing something.

Kekani, I have a 1/4"cable with a SpeakOn to 1/4" adapter on one end. SpeakOn side on the SLA and 1/4" side into left input on sub.
Also since a cross-over is recommended I will put in an order for the DBX along with the remaining parts for my short SLAs. This
DBX looks a little complicated. I never used one before, but I will learn it eventually.

kenkenni wrote:Kekani, I have a 1/4"cable with a SpeakOn to 1/4" adapter on one end. SpeakOn side on the SLA and 1/4" side into left input on sub.
Also since a cross-over is recommended I will put in an order for the DBX along with the remaining parts for my short SLAs. This
DBX looks a little complicated. I never used one before, but I will learn it eventually.

I'm thinking you're connections can't be good for the sub, but I don't run powered subs so I'm just thinking out loud.

You can get a DRPA+ fairly reasonable now thay the DRPA2 is out. You can get a DRPX for even less, which would probably work well for you.

kekani wrote:

kenkenni wrote:Kekani, I have a 1/4"cable with a SpeakOn to 1/4" adapter on one end. SpeakOn side on the SLA and 1/4" side into left input on sub.
Also since a cross-over is recommended I will put in an order for the DBX along with the remaining parts for my short SLAs. This
DBX looks a little complicated. I never used one before, but I will learn it eventually.

I'm thinking you're connections can't be good for the sub, but I don't run powered subs so I'm just thinking out loud.

You can get a DRPA+ fairly reasonable now thay the DRPA2 is out. You can get a DRPX for even less, which would probably work well for you.

Might he have "high-level" speaker inputs on the sub?

Tom Smit wrote:

kekani wrote:

kenkenni wrote:Kekani, I have a 1/4"cable with a SpeakOn to 1/4" adapter on one end. SpeakOn side on the SLA and 1/4" side into left input on sub.
Also since a cross-over is recommended I will put in an order for the DBX along with the remaining parts for my short SLAs. This
DBX looks a little complicated. I never used one before, but I will learn it eventually.

I'm thinking you're connections can't be good for the sub, but I don't run powered subs so I'm just thinking out loud.

You can get a DRPA+ fairly reasonable now thay the DRPA2 is out. You can get a DRPX for even less, which would probably work well for you.

Might he have "high-level" speaker inputs on the sub?

Thanks Tom.

Damn if I didn't have to look that up. Saw a lot of info about it for car audio, and Home Theater, which makes sense. Didn't see a whole lot on pro audio, at least I know it exists. I would've never thought you could run an amplified signal, into an amp. . . now I know what I was missing.

Tom Smit wrote:

kekani wrote:

kenkenni wrote:Kekani, I have a 1/4"cable with a SpeakOn to 1/4" adapter on one end. SpeakOn side on the SLA and 1/4" side into left input on sub.
Also since a cross-over is recommended I will put in an order for the DBX along with the remaining parts for my short SLAs. This
DBX looks a little complicated. I never used one before, but I will learn it eventually.

I'm thinking you're connections can't be good for the sub, but I don't run powered subs so I'm just thinking out loud.

You can get a DRPA+ fairly reasonable now thay the DRPA2 is out. You can get a DRPX for even less, which would probably work well for you.

Might he have "high-level" speaker inputs on the sub?

According to the manual, it's not equipped with speaker-level inputs.
Kenkenni, you'd probably do better coming out of your audio interface, into the sub, and take the sub output into the QSC amp for the SLA's. It still will send full range to the SLA's, so you'll have to be careful not to blow them up, but at least you won't overload the sub input....I'd bet your 'clip' light on the sub has been flashing like mad...

NukePooch wrote:. . . but at least you won't overload the sub input....I'd bet your 'clip' light on the sub has been flashing like mad...

This is what I was missing, but I guess I wasn't missing. . . carry on. . .

NukePooch wrote: According to the manual, it's not equipped with speaker-level inputs.
Kenkenni, you'd probably do better coming out of your audio interface, into the sub, and take the sub output into the QSC amp for the SLA's. It still will send full range to the SLA's, so you'll have to be careful not to blow them up, but at least you won't overload the sub input....I'd bet your 'clip' light on the sub has been flashing like mad...

I'm surprised it didn't blow the sub amps immediately.

The sub is only there to pass the lows. The lights barely blink even when I increase the volume to full at the
mixer. My amp volume is set at about 9 O'clock and the actual volume at the sub is tamed at -30.
It gets loud with no distortion even with the amp volume at almost full-clockwise. I will try the alternate
connection you suggested and see how different it will sound.

My DBX Driverack PA2 came in. I haven't had time to do much with it yet because of work. I have it set up as a two-way with no sub configuration. I
am running it mono at the moment as I only had one XLR connector. Bought another XLR connector today and I'm going to set it for stereo next.
I have not set any limiters, cross-over, or auto-eq yet. The interface takes a little getting used to. Can you guys that have SLAs and a Driverack PA2
offer up some setup and configuration pointers? The only thing I was able to do so far was re-do my gain structure. My mixer has hella headroom though.
Faders all the way at the top and not one clip light. It's an old Behringer MX1604A I've had for years and still sounds good to this day. Don't sleep on
the Behringer brand. They have some keeper products out on the market.