BillFitzmaurice.info

Bill, thank you for your suggestion and explanation on what is happening. I am assuming you mean something like the BFD 1124? If so, I blew it two months ago when I had a chance to pick up one for $45....

I'll keep an eye out anyways....

Thanks again for offering this great build....

NCDaveD

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

NCDaveD wrote:Finally wrestled the TTLS upstairs w/help from SWMBO. Set it up in it's place and fired it up. In a word...disappointing. Muddy sounding, but louder. Thought about it a minute and realized that due to placement and running off a single LFE output channel, the two sub's soundwaves were hitting me at different times, which is probably what was causing the "muddiness". So I laid the TTLS down, aimed it at the corner the same way my TT is pointed and sure enough, the sound cleared up and became louder.

Using two subs will help fix some room modes but the combined outputs also will create others. The next step is to use an appropriate EQ, like a BFD, to get the room response as flat as possible. Then you have two options, getting the best response at the listening position or averaging a few room locations. You have to accept the fact that perfection isn't possible, but you can get it pretty darn close.

So, would he use the BFD to EQ each sub seperatly, one on each channel with different settings, or would he just EQ them both together as if he only has a single sub?

2Channon wrote: So, would he use the BFD to EQ each sub seperatly, one on each channel with different settings, or would he just EQ them both together as if he only has a single sub?

Both together. You could EQ them separately but it would complicate matters. But the BFD is a stereo device, so it's a possibility to be investigated if dual mono isn't sufficient.

Thanks NCDaveD for your trial and error experience. Hopefully it will enable some of us to skip the "error" part of it in the future. If you decide to try to EQ them and run them together, please continue to share your journey.
Thank you too, Bill, for sharing your wisdom with noobs like myself. I am really enjoying my education.

Bummer NcDaveD, you must be pretty spewing. Luckily you got given options to try and sort it out. Thanks for being honest with your findings too.

Bill's designs all seem to be so brilliant, just like running my T39's in a tiny room for fun, they can't be expected to perform under every single situation. When the variables are favourable to their design.... good God, incredible.

Hopefully the EQ can sort thing out for you to a happy medium

Titanium Hand wrote:Bummer NcDaveD, you must be pretty spewing.

Not Spewing, just disappointed. I probably had unrealistic expectations to begin with....thinking I could just stick in another sub and have it work correctly. The more I think about it, the more I realize I should have known this from the beginning.

Thankfully, I derive more enjoyment out of the building phase than anything else, and it helped me deal with the personal things going on the end of last year. So I don't consider it a loss, just an "educational moment"

2Channon, thanks for asking the question that was on my mind, but hadn't actually asked it yet, and thank you Bill for answering it. I will revisit this thread (if it hasn't dropped totally out of site) when I get the eq equipment.

NCDaveD

BFD1124 on it's way. Seriously contemplating another TT build, this time a mirror image of first TT built. Should be easier to EQ based on what I heard earlier.

Now to decide...REW or omnimic..Since I would have to purchase all the hardware, (including exterior soundcard), looks like price is not a whole lot different. Decisions...decisions...

NCDaveD

NCDaveD wrote: Now to decide...REW or omnimic..

NCDaveD

Neither. This, along with HolmImpulse freeware, is what I use for general purpose measuring:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=390-801

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones- ... 166&sr=8-1

I'm a little confused. Is this a Table Tuba Long Style build. I recently bought the plans and see no bracing for the speaker chamber in my version of the plans.

Wayne, The bracing in the speaker chamber was something I added so that I could make panel 6 removable. In the plans, this panel is permanently attached. I made it removable to make it easier installing the speaker.

NCDaveD

Great Idea! If you don't mind I think I'll copy your idea.

Have at it! I've "borrowed" many others ideas from builds to make my life easier...

NCDaveD

A few ideas in this thread that are well worth copying, especially:

el_ingeniero wrote:Looking at the mouth, it brings to mind some kind of weapon a Mechwarrior would mount. Bass Cannon, anyone.

Yep, I can picture it now... weathered metal look, yellow stripe around the mouth, maybe an illuminated driver chamber and/or mouth. Conveniently I have a friend that can airbrush who wants a big sub for home use - could finish and paint it with this aesthetic in mind.

Did the exact same thing with the driver panel measuring 6" from the wrong edge.
Installed the first T-nut, then thought I should just check if it fits and
sure enough... Luckily it was easy to remove with a flat head screwdriver

NCDaveD wrote:88h88, yep, that is an old Sony, manufactured date March 1990. Still works perfectly

For those building the TTLS, please note the length shown for panel 10 for the cutlist program is incorrect (page 6 of directions). Add 10" to the dimension shown. All other panels check out OK. Also, I noted that althought the instructions show panel 6 fits to inside of panel 1 throughout the build, the layout shown on page 6 shows panel 6 fit to end of panel 1. Don't get confused by this as I did. The Sketchup model shows the instructions to be correct, i.e. panel 6 fits to the INSIDE of panel 1.

Time to get cutting!

NCDaveD

I just made this mistake on panel 10 . Guess I should have triple read, and gone through the post to find any difference.