BillFitzmaurice.info

Pretty happy with the way that turned out Using lockwire in three spots to attach the diffuser worked well

Looking sharp.

Thank you very much mate, seeing them take shape is wicked

Tom Smit wrote: ↑Sat Jan 20, 2024 1:28 am Looking sharp.

Agreed. And if I may add to that, I think it is an understatement.

Clever use of lock wire. I wasn't sure how you intended to go about. The way you did it makes the wire completely invisible from the war end of your cab. In this incarnation of the DR plans the tweeter array does not need to be airtight IIRC so the holes for wire will do no harm. Well done.

AntonZ wrote: ↑Sat Jan 20, 2024 7:22 am Agreed. And if I may add to that, I think it is an understatement.

Thank you for your kind words mate!

Slow progress is better than none.. T48 no.4 is underway If by chance l'd like more midrange, could a DR280 and 250 be used together? (A pair of each per side) I ask as an XF210 made its way back to me last week and l remembered it was loaded with these woofers They're another obsolete "FS" brand 10inch, rated at 280w.
I'd like to build all 3 of the DR series, just wondering if they can be combined in any way? I guess there'd be no point to a 280/200 stack..?

Combining tops with different frequency and phase responses is a can of worms you don't want to open. Besides, if the XF210 was correctly done those are guitar drivers.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2024 7:56 am Combining tops with different frequency and phase responses is a can of worms you don't want to open.

Ok thank you Bill

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Feb 16, 2024 7:56 am if the XF210 was correctly done those are guitar drivers.

The cab is to XF specification, these drivers are not, l'm sourcing correct ones atm. l know better these days not to use an out of spec driver

The speaker fairy has delivered 4x used 2510s
The front gaskets have been ground off and one needs a new dust cap, which l was aware of before purchase.
A pair will be loaded into DR250s, the other pair J10 Lites, will l need to purchase recone kits to restore the front gaskets, or can l use gasket tape when the time comes? The original gaskets are level with the frame

I wouldn't hesitate to use gasket tape, myself. I might not even fix the dust cap. Or I might try sucking the dent out of it, if I could get my lips to seal.

Use a hand held vacuum cleaner.

Seth wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 5:02 am ..Or I might try sucking the dent out of it, if I could get my lips to seal.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 7:37 am Use a hand held vacuum cleaner.

Yes, that would usually work, however there's three pinholes in the cover, and it's a little mangled from a previous attempt, it looks weak.

Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 4:03 pm it looks weak.
20240227_065326.jpg

Doesn't matter....it doesn't do anything except keep out the dust. The problem is when the edge comes loose and rattles. The holes and dents won't hurt anything. But, doesn't hurt to run a little bead of superglue around the edge of the dust cover to ensure it doesn't come loose.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 8:06 pm Doesn't matter...

Ok, l was caught up thinking the pinholes would contribute to an air leak, so l could reinforce any suspect spots with Starbond (rubberised CA glue) and confidently load the driver into a DR? How comparable are the pressures/forces on the driver cone inside a DR throat, to the horn path of a Titan or Tuba?

The dust cap seals drivers with vented backing plates or "vented pole piece". It appears the 2510's are vented. Still, I'd think a little of the rubberized CA glue would do just fine.

Dust covers are easily replaced. Removing the old cover is a delicate job, you don't want to cut the cone, but it doesn't have to be 100% removed.