BillFitzmaurice.info

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:22 pm You might also be able to get it done with a 3" deep router bit too.

Now, that is an interesting idea. It would have to be really slow going. I've never seen a router bit that long - don't know if it would be very safe.

But, it's a thought.....thanks.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:26 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:19 pm It looks like this is the Top Hat you have. You should have the depth available with about a half inch to spare, based on the SketchUp of my 2018 plans.

I'd consider using a forstner bit along with a drill guide like this. I think you can even screw it into place to keep it steady.

I'm afraid anything short of a really solid drill press won't be stable enough to keep the bit from grabbing and just tearing the brace up.

I hear ya. Easy enough to just use the router then. Hole pattern then clean it out to depth. Could even chisel out the portion the router wont reach if needed.

A really easy solution would be to use a threaded pole mount

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:48 pm A really easy solution would be to use a threaded pole mount

Except that I could never use the sub unless the pole was in it.....or a plug....

Anyway, I already bought the regular pole.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:33 pm

I hear ya. Easy enough to just use the router then. Hole pattern then clean it out to depth. Could even chisel out the portion the router wont reach if needed.

Everything has to be done (accessed) through that 1 1/2 hole. Chiseling would be pretty much impossible. I did find some long router bits - although with the router base obscuring the view, I'd be working blind in there.

Gonna' have to think about this one for a while....

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 8:05 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:48 pm A really easy solution would be to use a threaded pole mount

Except that I could never use the sub unless the pole was in it.....or a plug....

Anyway, I already bought the regular pole.

Could use it the same as usual, the back side is sealed.

I bet you could use a spade bit, just make sure it's really sharp, and that the tip is centered going into the brace.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 10:05 pm I bet you could use a spade bit, just make sure it's really sharp, and that the tip is centered going into the brace.

My neighbor was over and we discussed that.....you think it would be better than a forstner bit? Seems like they'd both have the same problem catching on the edges.

Either way, it would probably be best to drill a small pilot hole all the way down to keep it centered all the way through.....

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 9:46 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 8:05 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sat Dec 12, 2020 6:48 pm A really easy solution would be to use a threaded pole mount

Except that I could never use the sub unless the pole was in it.....or a plug....

Anyway, I already bought the regular pole.

Could use it the same as usual, the back side is sealed.

Ok, you are going to make me look harder at that.....you realize that you're costing me money here....

Thoughts that I had: predrill a pilot hole (necessary regardless of what is next), and then use a hole saw to remove the plug
: use a Forstner bit inside a sleeve to go through the brace
: use an oscillating saw to go through the brace, but it might be long enough
: use a chisel to finish removing the brace
: use a spade bit (after Bill made the suggestion)
This is definitely a challenge, but, I think that you have the skills to accomplish the task.

I'm starting to believe that Seth's solution is the best. That screw-in adapter looks to only go about an inch deep - a forstner bit could stay inside the top panel to keep it aligned only going that deep. Found a screw-in pole for $10 - different brand, but it's an M20 thread. I think I'd like that at 20 inches better than the adjustable one at 30-54". At 20 inches the top of the SLA will be a little over 6 feet tall. That's plenty of throw for this size system....trying to go higher and louder will bury the sub.

And if I need to get louder - I can always pack up my small rack with a driverack and a power amp and take along a T39.

What the hell.....DONE. I ordered 'em.

Thanks Seth...

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Sun Dec 13, 2020 12:10 pm What the hell.....DONE. I ordered 'em.

Thanks Seth...

Happy to have been helpful. You're welcome Bruce.

I've never used the screw in style, but they're reportedly a very stable solution without any wobble or play in the pole at all.

Looking forward to hearing how well it goes getting it in there and your impression of the mount in general.

Do you have casters in your T24? That pole could be awfully handy to use for wheeling it around without having to bend over.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Sun Dec 13, 2020 1:33 pm Do you have casters in your T24? That pole could be awfully handy to use for wheeling it around without having to bend over.

Oh yeah....it's got wheels. I'm a big believer in wheels....

The only problem with the T24 is that it's really hard to lift. Just no good place to hang on to it. I've considered just putting a handle on the top back. Maybe even some cheap cup handles - one at the top of the mouth and one in back.