BillFitzmaurice.info

I've just found a company in Sydney, TorTech, and bought two transformers to replace the existing one. One is 230 Primary 2X16V secondary at 30va. That will give me about 17V at 240V @ 0.93A (the original is 0.45A). The second is 240V primary and 10V secondary @ 50va (the original is 10va). A little bit of overkill but they will both fit easily. AU$30 each and $15 freight. I'm still well short of the $550 for a PX from a local supplier . I am not sure if both these transformers are stock items as I rang them up and had a chat and he said he had them on the shelf but that they were not on the web page. http://www.tortech.com.au/
I'll do a thread on the conversion as soon as I get the transformers. Cheers S

Hi Folks, I got the first coat of DuraTek on box 1 last night but unfortunately it had an alergic reaction to the white primer that I had used on the top and bottom panel so that some white patches were showing through . I decided on the "task of least persistance" approach and let it dry for a few hours then put another coat over it. Thankefully when I checked it this morning it was perfect, no sign of any surface bleed

I wont make the same mistake with the T39s

Progress wise, I am ready for final assembly as soon as the DuraTek is done. I ordered some black Penn handles to replace the chrome ones that I bought previously. I couldn't go to so much effort with surface finishes etc. and ruin the asthetics with shiny silver handles could I?. I am also looking for some black wood screws for the Penn corners if anyone knows a supplier in Oz?

I plan to put some electrickery into them by the weekend

I plan to put some electrickery into them by the weekend

Good work Catweazel

SimonD wrote: I am also looking for some black wood screws for the Penn corners if anyone knows a supplier in Oz?

I saw one trick which was to push the screws into some cardboard, hit them with a spray bomb, and let it cure. Bingo, black-headed screws.

Tom Smit wrote: I saw one trick which was to push the screws into some cardboard, hit them with a spray bomb, and let it cure. Bingo, black-headed screws.

Even if you find black screws you want to do that. The oxide coating used on black screws doesn't prevent rust, paint does.

Thanks for the info guys, I was lucky enough to pick up some Florentine Bronze plated screws from the local Mitre10 hardware store.



I am still waiting for the new black handles to arrive but all the rest is complete. I'll load them this evening and give them a test.











I have to say I am very happpy with the overall finish etc.

Now on to the T39s

Nice indeed!

LelandCrooks wrote:Nice indeed!

+1

That's an awesome red there!

Good build
I like the contrast in color.

Thanks guys, just a couple of shots of the final assembly.







In the studio at last, I think you can see where the red theme is coming from







I also got to mount the old mackie permanently in the room.

SimonD wrote:

Be careful....when you stand 'em up like that all the sound will run out the bottom.

Bruce Weldy wrote:

SimonD wrote:
Be careful....when you stand 'em up like that all the sound will run out the bottom.

Ahhhhhh, thats what the problem was at last weeks rehearsal, I though we sounded a little flat

Hi Folks, As I will be running these up for the first time tonight I have been looking for some setup info but am overwhelmed. Can someone please answer these simple questions:

1) Where should I be measuring the voltage from? amp output, crossover terminal, speaker terminal......?
2) What is the maximum voltage that I should be putting into the DR250s with the Kappalite 3010MB(8 ohm) and 2 x ASD1001S (8 ohm)
3) What is a suitable frequency for the test signal?

Cheers S

1) from the amp output
2) when it's excrutiating loud! That will likely happen before you can hear the speaker distort