BillFitzmaurice.info

Grant Bunter wrote: Arr see, now you have to read fully.
Switch mode power supplies cycle faster to keep power up to the rails, and since that's what Class D amps have as a generalisation:

It tells you in those specs what the fuse rating is, dependent on country model.

It's not about the maximum power your amp can output as transients, it's about the most power it can consume (before the fuse will blow) to produce that output

So if you have eg 240V power, the fuse is rated @ 6.3 amps. If the fuse does it's job, that means it will blow after or around 6.3 amps. Which means that maximum required power from your power source would be 1512W or thereabouts.
Given that, you would think that, with a little overhead a 2.5Kv genny (or inverter) should be ample.

I imagine you would be well into hard clipping if you were running the amp to a level that was making fuses blow, much less any inbuilt protection circuitry.

You're correct though, you do need enough power for instantaneous requirement. We can't run a small stick welder or a medium sized compressor on our (old) 2.5Kv genny on the farm. Most noticeably the compressor, where all the load is trying to get that motor to turn the piston over that very first time.
We can hear the motor on the genny bogging down with an electric drill or an angle grinder.
All these things though are motor driven tools, and I'm sure that a switch mode power supply isn't quite so demanding...

Chris_Allen wrote:

ryan222h wrote:Not all battery powered stuff is created equal. I have the ryobi lithium ion battery 18V circular and it shreds just about anything it can sink its teeth into.

I have the same saw.

escapemcp wrote:The 5 minute wood adhesive gel which is listed on the "European Suppliers" page is out of stock.

Zack Brock wrote:I have a cheap rechargeable circular saw from Harbor Freight that does just fine on 1/2" plywood. Bought it four years ago for $20 and it hasn't had any trouble. Battery isn't lithium ion though, but I can get through a couple sheets worth. Its now $30:

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt-5- ... 68849.html

^ Same model as mine except mine is blue plastic housing instead of the red color they use now.

Another one of the best purchases I made was a Dewalt Track Saw; allows me to make absolutely perfect cuts, as good or better as I can on the table saw with a fence. And faster with less setup, just lay the track along the cut line. Smaller kerf blade too than my table saw. I can stack and clamp three sheets on top of one another on a bed of styrofoam, draw the layout on the top one, then cut out all three sheets at once perfectly with the track saw in no time.

And another vote for the panel jig - I use it extensively, it almost never leaves the top of my table saw. And then I dedicated another table saw, a Skilsaw brand, to tweeter cutting duty with Bill's tweeter cutting box jig. Works great!

I've also had great luck with local pawn shops. I picked up a router, a second table saw, a circular saw, my Bosch jig saw, two battery drills, all of them used on the cheap but in great shape by working a deal with the local pawn shop owner in my small town.

88h88 wrote:I wish the 30 minute stuff were named accurately, it's at least an hour before it sets fully. If you've got all your panels pre-cut then you've got a lot of downtime between fitting them all.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

escapemcp wrote:The 5 minute wood adhesive gel which is listed on the "European Suppliers" page is out of stock.

Good. You don't want to use it.

escapemcp wrote:or is there a fundamental reason why I shouldn't use it?

88h88 wrote:

escapemcp wrote:or is there a fundamental reason why I shouldn't use it?

I've used it, am using it now for my current build. There's nothing really 'wrong' with it but if this is a first build there will probably be mistakes with panels and the quick setting time doesn't give you much time to rectify things before it becomes permanent. With the 5 minute stuff it starts to go off almost immediately after leaving the bottle/tube so you're already having to rush to get things lined up perfectly as well as clamped up/screwed into position...

escapemcp wrote: Another quick question though: In the instructions, it mentions about acrylic latex caulk for filling gaps between the woofer gasket and the front of the frame. What is this please? Does it have a 'European' name

It also mentions on page 10 about using screws to attach the drivers, and then mentions that the screws must be long enough to go through the frame and driver gasket plus 1 to 1 1/4 inches. I thought bolts and T-nuts were used for attaching the driver? Also what is the extra inch or so for? And is the gasket the hard foamy spacer attached to the speaker (that is visible in the pic), or the extra papery spacer which comes with the driver (which was taped to the foamy spacer thingy)? Does that make sense? Attaching the driver (for checking fit) is the one area I was not 100% on, and I'd like to have it clear in my head before I begin.

Thanks in advance for any input

A