BillFitzmaurice.info

Phaedras wrote:Here's a pretty basic explanation of coil crosstalk.. http://www.audioholics.com/education/lo ... alk-basics

That was a great link, and a really quick lesson for such a simple thing. Now I gotta go and cut the zip ties and reorient. Hopefully I can do it without resoldering.

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm - Good link too

This helped me go from this:



To this:

No resoldering needed.


I guess I'm just not too good at photo documenting when I'm nearing the finish line. In any case, I figured I'd spare redundancy and skip over the damping, finial wiring, etc. I do have a single strap handle on the other side, and may (or may not) install another one- I'll try it like this for a while. AND, I haven't done a front grill cloth frame. . .yet. Again, I'll run it like this for a while.


Some final notes:
Just over 31 lbs, so only a 3 lb weight saving from my first Jack. Honestly, I was expecting it to be lighter. However, they're the same weight as an EV SX100, not to mention the sound.

Because the panels are 1/4", some hardware doesn't work without modification.
The strap handles with hnuts have another 1/4 spacer on the inside.
Top hat has a spacer on the outside, and the screws needed to be cut short so they don't protrude through (I may have mentioned this already).

Because I built the Jack 112, and spent so much "mental" time with that build, I had some issues where I needed to be clear with the plans for the 112 lite. Ie: array spacing is different from the front edge; sides attach differently. As Bill says, read the plans. Also didn't help that I squeezed in a pair of Wedgehorn 6's before this build - not good for a noob like me.

Since I have a new 14" bandsaw (my crappy 9" bit the dust, and i needed something a little bigger, but smaller than my resaw) I probably won't be using router templates as much (still don't have a jigsaw). Thanks to all of the references and assistance here, and seeing the final product, I have a much better understanding of what "close enough" is, as well as what really matters.

Staples shouldn't be replaced by brads.

Bondo the staples/brads, not the panels, or there will be a lot of work sanding. D/a sander was well used.

Cutting ALL the parts first (this is the hard part, really) makes the build quick, and fun. Except for finishing and playing of course.

Be square where the plans say to be square, this will not be a regret.

Very strong midrange, like the first Jack, except now I have a pair for the PA. My amp barely fluttered the first meter light and my other half told me to turn it down. Efficiency is incredible. Clarity is amazing. Most of you already know that.

There's another aspect of these most of you already know, but first let me preface by saying,"I'm starting to have some regrets taking a chance on Bill's designs. Not quite hating this site, but leaning that way."
There, I said it. Here's why. . . I placed one of the Jack Lites on my first Jack 112 and switched off the array in the lower cab, series to 4 ohm, and in the words of Adam Richman,"Oh my goodness, oh my goodness."

Not unlike my amazement when I first heard the horizontal dispersion and great efficiency of my Wedgehorns (which truly made me a believer), the sound, no, tone coming out of two cabs for bass compared to one is difficult to describe. Like I stated, most of you already know this. My bass teacher would call this "fat". Sorry to say, when I went back to what would be my normal cab (Jack 112, single), as good as that was, I mean IS, there is no comparison. This has nothing to do with volume either.

Now for everyone chomping to make comments about building that extra 112, not happening just yet. Got a pair of 110's on the horizon for PA & you know I'm just going to have to see how 2x110 Lites sound as a bass cab.

Got 2 weeks before the next "important" gig, so we'll have time to dry run.

After all that, if both jack versions were the same weight, I'd build the lite version again. Even if the milling was the hard part (no rocket science needed), assembly was cool. Of course, I haven't seen the updated version of the Jack 112 (non-lite).

I will do the sacreligious thing and craft a grill cover eventually. Remains to be seen whether its left on or not.

Thanks to everyone that provided guidance and "remembrances" on this build - that helped a lot.

Aaron

Great end result. Is that a flat black on the cab/array or is it just the picture?

Kekani,
Thank you!
I've followed your build threads, awesome...

Well done!...and thanks for sharing!

loudsubz wrote:Great end result. Is that a flat black on the cab/array or is it just the picture?

Thanks. Cabs have Duratex, the arrays are naked, except for the dowel, which is flat black. Oh, I did use a scraper on the joints between the tweets to get rid of the seeping abs glue, which was minimal. I did the whole array, and basically took off the textured surface between the tweets, just in case I decided to not do a grill cover. That was the easiest scraper job I've done - wood is much harder.

Aaron

kekani wrote:Some final notes:
Just over 31 lbs, so only a 3 lb weight saving from my first Jack. Honestly, I was expecting it to be lighter.

Wow, that's not a lot different. That surprises me.

jswingchun wrote:

kekani wrote:Some final notes:
Just over 31 lbs, so only a 3 lb weight saving from my first Jack. Honestly, I was expecting it to be lighter.

Wow, that's not a lot different. That surprises me.

It depends on what the others were made of. For adequate stiffness the Lites must be made from 5 ply 1/4, and that usually means BB, which is heavier than Arauco, for instance. 5 ply 1/4 inch Italian poplar would knock off another 5 pounds or more, but that's not easily found in the US.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

jswingchun wrote:

kekani wrote:Some final notes:
Just over 31 lbs, so only a 3 lb weight saving from my first Jack. Honestly, I was expecting it to be lighter.

Wow, that's not a lot different. That surprises me.

It depends on what the others were made of. For adequate stiffness the Lites must be made from 5 ply 1/4, and that usually means BB, which is heavier than Arauco, for instance. 5 ply 1/4 inch Italian poplar would knock off another 5 pounds or more, but that's not easily found in the US.

Bill is right about the BB 5 ply 1/4, especially since its all solid, there's actually some heft to it. Also, I added in a top hat and full melded array (and gobbed on the ABS on the backside). BUT, its still lighter than the original, and I cannot stress enough that if given the choice, I like how the Lite version goes together and would do it again. Yes, WAY more parts to cut, but I'm trying something right now referring to a statement I made earlier about having everything cut from the beginning. I'm calling it a "Jack 110 Lite (x2) speed build". I basically went from wood to bent horns in two days. Most of it was cutting wood. Trying to put my money where my mouth is I guess. Man, those 2510's are considerably lighter than the 2512's. I can't even document that build because its going together so fast. Of course, now its the middle of the week, and progress has slowed.

In any case, here's a sacrilegious pic of my Jack 112L. . . yes, grill covers. In auto speak, this would be called a sleeper.


Aaron

It would be intersting to see a hybrid jack, basically a normal Jack for ease of build with the curved mouth for looks.

Kirk Baptista wrote:It would be intersting to see a hybrid jack, basically a normal Jack for ease of build with the curved mouth for looks.

I made the statement that these go together pretty quick, if you have everything cut. So, I thought I'd put my money where my mouth is, with a pair of Jack 110 Lites, which, I'll post a quick build thread for those that are interested.

Aaron

Kirk Baptista wrote:It would be intersting to see a hybrid jack, basically a normal Jack for ease of build with the curved mouth for looks.

Since the 1/8 inch curved mouth must be braced it would be rather silly not to take advantage of the bracing that's already there and make the rest out of 1/4 inch.