BillFitzmaurice.info

LelandCrooks wrote:Sorry, a day late. Back in stock today.

alrighty then good to know. I will be needing more later, and shucks you are cheaper than the manufacturer by about a dollar with shipping. I definitely prefer to order from you, and I waited, but had to go for it.

IDK guys I may have tripped a little hard on the spray paint.
I started with:
Gloss Banner Red
Then flat black from the horn edges
and finally some metallic gold around the edges



The braces will be brush painted semi-gloss black and the entire outside will be black duratex.
Whadya think?

Kind of like looking into the heart of a rampaging locomotive boiler.

David Raehn wrote:Kind of like looking into the heart of a rampaging locomotive boiler.

ha ha...hadn't thought of that, but I like it. I had thought of some sort of internal fire/heat/gilding.

The part where they meet at the flat black looks "homemade." I say paint the inside red, the mouth gold, and let the gold reflect the red.

Finally got some Duratex in so beginning the exterior painting:

Yaaayyyy This Titan 39 wide body (28") is now done!! (I don't understand the "fairy dots" in the pic, I cleaned the lens)










Here I have a question: In the future when I have 4 of these and am stacking and V plating them, do I need to be concerned about a horizontal gap that
would be between the stacks if I were to put rubber feet on the bottom of the top stack of subs?

heavybdrums wrote:Yaaayyyy This Titan 39 wide body (28") is now done!! (I don't understand the "fairy dots" in the pic, I cleaned the lens)










Here I have a question: In the future when I have 4 of these and am stacking and V plating them, do I need to be concerned about a horizontal gap that
would be between the stacks if I were to put rubber feet on the bottom of the top stack of subs?

Don't put feet on the sides. The chevron corners act as feet and also lock the cabs together when you lay 'em down.

Bruce Weldy :
Don't put feet on the sides. The chevron corners act as feet and also lock the cabs together when you lay 'em down.

aighty, thanks Bruce. This titan and the second one will have feet (for the pair on the bottom) but the other stacking ones will not then. That makes sense.

I'll admit, I wasn't sure about your paint scheme in the first incomplete pic, but now that I see the finished ones, all duratexed and all, I'm really diggin' it.
It'll be sweet to see them v-plated.


Really reminds me of something like this:

heavybdrums wrote:Bruce Weldy :
Don't put feet on the sides. The chevron corners act as feet and also lock the cabs together when you lay 'em down.

aighty, thanks Bruce. This titan and the second one will have feet (for the pair on the bottom) but the other stacking ones will not then. That makes sense.

I wouldn't even bother with putting them on one pair. That way you don't have to worry which one goes down first. I've been stacking mine three high for the last two years weekly throughout the summer and sliding 'em around (on concrete) as needed with no real wear on the corners.

NukePooch wrote:I'll admit, I wasn't sure about your paint scheme in the first incomplete pic, but now that I see the finished ones, all duratexed and all, I'm really diggin' it.
It'll be sweet to see them v-plated.


Really reminds me of something like this:

I have to admit also that I wasn't sure myself. I started with spraying the Red all inside and got kinda buzzed on the fumes and then the rest came from that.
I don't know if you built models as a kid or not but I did and this experience reminded me of that. This design kinda grew on me after seeing it a few times..now all I have to do is sorta duplicate it at least 3 more times. Think I will use an organic particle mask for the rest (respirator).

commander_dan wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:And that's why you should get a brad nailer. I've never had to wait for a panel to dry. Screw 'em from the bottom and shoot the joint where the panels meet with an inch and a half brad....move on to the next panel.

+1. Brads are so much faster. I bought mine for a measly $89, best investment ever. Although I already had a compressor..

I'm not sure but don't they make a brad nailer that is electric or without a compressor?

heavybdrums wrote:

commander_dan wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:And that's why you should get a brad nailer. I've never had to wait for a panel to dry. Screw 'em from the bottom and shoot the joint where the panels meet with an inch and a half brad....move on to the next panel.

+1. Brads are so much faster. I bought mine for a measly $89, best investment ever. Although I already had a compressor..

I'm not sure but don't they make a brad nailer that is electric or without a compressor?

oh yea they do make an electric brad nailer. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-electric ... ockType=G2 Not sure it matters but it uses 18 ga brads max length 1&1/4". I think that would work fine.

But for most uses and other small pneumatic tools including blowing dust etc. this is probably a better choice: http://www.sears.com/porter-cable-pcfp7 ... ckType=G23
also note that this is a finish nailer (16ga) not a brad nailer(18ga) and shoots longer nails and reading the reviews of the electric brad nailer..it doesn't sound good as far as consistency of nail depth. But to be fair some of the reviewers had no idea that a brad nailer is not for example, to attach 3/4" shelf boards to battons...lol.