BillFitzmaurice.info

Rowan611 wrote:Well I bought the AB, hooked it up to my SVS's and I think it needs to go back. To get any usable output from the amp I have to turn the knobs all the way up.

Pro amps need a +4dB signal. Consumer AVR sub outputs are -10dB.
I don't recommend pro amps for HT for this reason, and because you have no need for more power than a subwoofer plate amp will deliver anyway.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Rowan611 wrote:Well I bought the AB, hooked it up to my SVS's and I think it needs to go back. To get any usable output from the amp I have to turn the knobs all the way up.

Pro amps need a +4dB signal. Consumer AVR sub outputs are -10dB.
I don't recommend pro amps for HT for this reason, and because you have no need for more power than a subwoofer plate amp will deliver anyway.

Well ok then. I'll take it back. Thanks Bill

Taking a much closer look at the BASH 300; I have, what will probably be considered, a stupid question. How do I run the speaker cable to the sub or subs? I know I need to build a enclosure for it. Will it come with detailed instructions? I've just never used a plate amp like this.

Why do so many people use pro amps if there is such a huge signal difference?

Sorry, just hadn't heard of this before and I'm curious

Rowan611 wrote:Taking a much closer look at the BASH 300; I have, what will probably be considered, a stupid question. How do I run the speaker cable to the sub or subs?

The amp will come with short speaker leads, connect them to an output jack installed on the box you build for it.

Why do so many people use pro amps if there is such a huge signal difference?

Because they think they need a gazillion watts. With inefficient direct radiators sometimes they do.

Ok. I thought I saw a black band red cable just hanging on one of the pictures, now I know what they're for. Thanks again Bill..

Gazillion watts

I think I've decided to go with the BASH 300. Seems a lot of people here like this amp. I know I need to build an enclosure for it. I could start a new thread, but I'd like to keep everything here. Any tips? Pics?

I am planning on running the leads to a pair of 5 way binding posts.

Rowan611 wrote:

Stratispho wrote:

Rowan611 wrote:Well I can't use CutList since Mac's aren't supported. I will just figure it out on the actual 4x8s

There's a Sketchup Cutlist plugin for Macs.
https://code.google.com/p/cutlist/wiki/Installation

Thank you! That will help.

I've got the go ahead to start in July. Going to go get one of the amps tomorrow. I'm super psyched to start.

I killed 4 hours of time yesterday playing with this and going over every single piece of the speaker plans I bought. I'm amazed at how detailed the sketchup plans that Bill sends are. Very well done.

Stratispho wrote:

Rowan611 wrote:Well I can't use CutList since Mac's aren't supported. I will just figure it out on the actual 4x8s

There's a Sketchup Cutlist plugin for Macs.
https://code.google.com/p/cutlist/wiki/Installation

I run sketchup with no problem. I was referring the this website

http://delphiforfun.org/programs/cutlist.htm

Which won't work with a Mac.

Stratispho wrote: I killed 4 hours of time yesterday playing with this and going over every single piece of the speaker plans I bought. I'm amazed at how detailed the sketchup plans that Bill sends are.

It takes on average 30 hours to create them. Double that for the DRs.

Rowan611 wrote:I think I've decided to go with the BASH 300. Seems a lot of people here like this amp. I know I need to build an enclosure for it. I could start a new thread, but I'd like to keep everything here. Any tips? Pics?

I am planning on running the leads to a pair of 5 way binding posts.

You can be as fancy or as basic as you like. My boxes were each made out of four pieces of leftover 1/2" BB sized so that the plate can be dropped in and screwed down.

Make two opposing pieces longer to allow for some airflow from the bottom. (I'm not sure it helped, but it was easy to do and certainly doesnt hurt.)

Someday I'll put them into something fancier.

koturban wrote:
You can be as fancy or as basic as you like. My boxes were each made out of four pieces of leftover 1/2" BB sized so that the plate can be dropped in and screwed down.

Make two opposing pieces longer to allow for some airflow from the bottom. (I'm not sure it helped, but it was easy to do and certainly doesnt hurt.)

Someday I'll put them into something fancier.

Thanks!

I was thinking of building it with some slats routed into the top and length of one side for airflow, or top and both sides. I was going to be pretty anal about it. Plan on painting it black before i put it together. Going to look for some nice 5 way binding posts. I'm just worried about it looking out of place with the rest of my gear (that's all black). I really wish you could get it in black. I know, overkill right?

Order placed! Should be here on the 26th! YAY. Also got permission to go get the router I found used on CL; Milwaukee plunge router. Now, I just need the plywood and we can get this build started.

Rowan611 wrote:

koturban wrote:
You can be as fancy or as basic as you like. My boxes were each made out of four pieces of leftover 1/2" BB sized so that the plate can be dropped in and screwed down.

Make two opposing pieces longer to allow for some airflow from the bottom. (I'm not sure it helped, but it was easy to do and certainly doesnt hurt.)

Someday I'll put them into something fancier.

Thanks!

I was thinking of building it with some slats routed into the top and length of one side for airflow, or top and both sides. I was going to be pretty anal about it. Plan on painting it black before i put it together. Going to look for some nice 5 way binding posts. I'm just worried about it looking out of place with the rest of my gear (that's all black). I really wish you could get it in black. I know, overkill right?

Not necessarily. You can take my idea one step further as follows:

1. Make box about 1 1/2 inches taller than what you originally plan for. Size width and depth of box so that plate will slip just inside box. (Bear with me.)

2. Glue cover on top. You should now have a box with no bottom.

3. Cut around 1 1/5" of top. If you do this carefully, you will have a perfectly fitting cover. (Table saw is best) I can offer some more tips on how to do this, if you go this route.

4. Around the inside of the box, glue support strips for the plate amp so that it can be screwed inside the box.

5. Add hinges for cover. (And a chain to keep cover from falling backwards).

6. Finish as desired.

Some things to consider will be the rca and power cords. The top will need to be deep enough to clear the bend of the power cord and connecters. They will also need a discrete path out of the box.

Or you could also simply build a box and mount the plate amp on the back face.

With woodworking, the sky is the limit!

koturban wrote:
Not necessarily. You can take my idea one step further as follows:

1. Make box about 1 1/2 inches taller than what you originally plan for. Size width and depth of box so that plate will slip just inside box. (Bear with me.)

2. Glue cover on top. You should now have a box with no bottom.

3. Cut around 1 1/5" of top. If you do this carefully, you will have a perfectly fitting cover. (Table saw is best) I can offer some more tips on how to do this, if you go this route.

4. Around the inside of the box, glue support strips for the plate amp so that it can be screwed inside the box.

5. Add hinges for cover. (And a chain to keep cover from falling backwards).

6. Finish as desired.

Some things to consider will be the rca and power cords. The top will need to be deep enough to clear the bend of the power cord and connecters. They will also need a discrete path out of the box.

Or you could also simply build a box and mount the plate amp on the back face.

With woodworking, the sky is the limit!

Awesome. Was hoping you could explain step 3 and 5 more. Are you suggesting hinges for the back or front? Sorry, I'm an extremely visual guy so reading instructions can be tough for me if I can't visualize it.

Rowan611 wrote:

koturban wrote:
Not necessarily. You can take my idea one step further as follows:

1. Make box about 1 1/2 inches taller than what you originally plan for. Size width and depth of box so that plate will slip just inside box. (Bear with me.)

2. Glue cover on top. You should now have a box with no bottom.

3. Cut around 1 1/5" of top. If you do this carefully, you will have a perfectly fitting cover. (Table saw is best) I can offer some more tips on how to do this, if you go this route.

4. Around the inside of the box, glue support strips for the plate amp so that it can be screwed inside the box.

5. Add hinges for cover. (And a chain to keep cover from falling backwards).

6. Finish as desired.

Some things to consider will be the rca and power cords. The top will need to be deep enough to clear the bend of the power cord and connecters. They will also need a discrete path out of the box.

Or you could also simply build a box and mount the plate amp on the back face.

With woodworking, the sky is the limit!

Awesome. Was hoping you could explain step 3 and 5 more. Are you suggesting hinges for the back or front? Sorry, I'm an extremely visual guy so reading instructions can be tough for me if I can't visualize it.

Yeah, it's kinda difficult to explain without pictures.

This article might help:

http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/P ... -7393.aspx

Add some simple butt hinges to the back of the box and a chain. Something like this: