Slim Tuba HT Trials

[DJPhatman]

Thanks for the response. Miked that is exactly what I was thinking and also being that I am going to paint that
area black anyway then why not finish up the can. It dries on and looks like Duratex though not as thick. I used
it on my homemade mixer rack. No biggie though, thanks for the advice.

Again, why? The driver chamber will never be seen, unless you are installing a see-through access cover.

[miked]

If I ever did a see through access cover, I'd line the chamber with mirrored panels. That would really confuse the unwashed masses that don't understand horns.

[kenkenni]

Okay, here's the latest progress. Still making little tiny mistakes but also addressing them. This really is a learning
experience. They say practice makes perfect so we'll see.

Here is where I currently stand on the project.







So I am almost done. I have some great ideas about the final finish. Stay tuned

[miked]

Looks great to me! Looking forward to seeing the final product and hearing what you think about it.

[Radian]

A familiar sight. Coming together nicely.

If it's any consolation regarding the performance in work here...the THT slim has, as of late, successfully pulled a 14 sq-foot section of our living room drywall completely off from the stud work behind it. 12V will now have a large portion of our south wall flapping in the breeze on the stupid loud stuff.

I have yet to tally up the damages and send them off to Bill for collection....<cough> <cough>

[Charles Warwick]

If it's any consolation regarding the performance in work here...the THT slim has, as of late, successfully pulled a 14 sq-foot section of our living room drywall completely off from the stud work behind it. 12V will now have a large portion of our south wall flapping in the breeze on the stupid loud stuff. :

Pics or it didn't happen. I gotta see this.

[Radian]

Pics or it didn't happen. I gotta see this.

Nothing to see in a picture unfortunately. The wall is still there, it's just that the gypsum board is no longer attached to anything behind it. In a 3-foot radius around the sub, I can press the drywall in and out by hand a half-inch or so.

When in use, the wall surface simply "breathes" right along with the output of the sub. As things get loud enough, it starts rattling profusely against the studs.

I'll admit, it's cool to observe because the cabinet itself is rock solid, meanwhile everything else in proximity gets warped and twisted, doing the swansong.

At war volume, mine does pretty much the same as this fella's: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGTg8RfXj6M
P.S. - I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread. Just want to inspire the OP.

[iamlowsound]

Pics or it didn't happen. I gotta see this.

Nothing to see in a picture unfortunately. The wall is still there, it's just that the gypsum board is no longer attached to anything behind it. In a 3-foot radius around the sub, I can press the drywall in and out by hand a half-inch or so.

When in use, the wall surface simply "breathes" right along with the output of the sub. As things get loud enough, it starts rattling profusely against the studs.

I'll admit, it's cool to observe because the cabinet itself is rock solid, meanwhile everything else in proximity gets warped and twisted, doing the swansong.

At war volume, mine does pretty much the same as this fella's: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGTg8RfXj6M
P.S. - I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread. Just want to inspire the OP.

It is videos and posts like this that make me realize how much I NEED a THT or three.

lowsound

[Charles Warwick]

The wall is still there, it's just that the gypsum board is no longer attached to anything behind it. In a 3-foot radius around the sub, I can press the drywall in and out by hand a half-inch or so.

To avoid thread jacking, I won't push this any further, but it must be said, yikes.

I'm seriously a little worried about my basement now. I have a THTLP in the works and all of a sudden everything is looking structurally insignificant.

[kenkenni]

Hey guys. Still trucking along. I couldn't get any thing done this weekend. It rained from Friday all the way into Sunday
evening. But what I did manage to do was break-in my Dayton driver. I broke the seal on my SPA-250 plate amp, hooked
the driver to it, grabbed my DMM and set it for AC and adjusted the gain to get a reading of 10 volts as was specified in
the plans. I used Audacity to set a 20Hz test tone on repeat for 12 hours and the whole downstairs was vibrating, (I set
the woofer on its magnet on a carpeted floor in my bedroom). I had to find something that can absorb most of the vibration
that was occurring in the furniture below. It was amazing to hear the Dayton come to life in a low level break-in period. I
can't wait to install this in the cabinet. If it can get that low outside of the cabinet, I can only imagine what it's like installed.

I'm hoping to be done in the next week or so.

[kenkenni]

I was working on trimming out the woofer spacer today when I looked at it and realized
that I may only get 6 of the 8 screws in the spacer. Two of the pre-drilled holes are right
near where the horn width starts out narrow (like opposite panel 1), I can barely get my hand
under there. Should I have set the screws in their first than sealed up the panels? It's not a
show stopper by any means, as I think I can just fasten in a threaded screw in those two holes
I can't reach. I'm still in good spirits though. There are a lot of things that I will do different on
the next builds. I installed the 6/13 brace today and did some sanding on the exterior.
Tomorrow I'll cut the hole in the access panel for the terminal cup.

[miked]

Don't lose faith yet! You can do it! If you can't quite get the screwdriver in there, try a flexible shaft driver. Like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-fl ... 68514.html

That's not the best example of that tool, but you get the idea. Keep in mind that the entire perimeter of the driver must be clamped down somehow or you'll have air leaks.

[MissileCrisis]

Here's a tip, when braking in drivers, try to suspend them on planks of wood, so the driver doesn't couple with the ground and make it vibrate as much. I did what you mentioned and kinda tipped it on the carpet, let's just say the parents weren't too happy about the background MHMMMMM so I broke it in while they were away.

[kenkenni]

Thanks for the confidence guys. I took another look at the problem area and trying to get a
1 1/2" screw under that tight space just won't work, but I do have enough room to where I
can screw into those two holes from the top. I feel better now. Two more braces and then
the grand finale: attaching the second side. Gonna need some good advice from you guys on
this part. I'm thinking I would apply the PL to all of the panel joints, let it tack up a bit to where
it is sort of "cushiony" and then slowly lower the panel down and secure. That will prevent the
PL and the panel from sliding around as I even up the corners.

[kenkenni]

Here are more pics. I think I'm coming along pretty well. I'm running into the same problems Myn ran into
on his builds, but I was able to fix them. What a learning experience!



Ain't she a beauty?



Would have been trying to secure screws from the bottom if it weren't for Bruce. Thanks Bruce!



This is where I ended up a the end of the day. Don't worry about those pieces of wood in the top, they're just sitting there