BillFitzmaurice.info

Guido, PL is not available in all countries, but doesn't stop people successfully building.... Just make sure it is an expanding/ foaming glue? Most are moisture cure, so litely dampen joins before applying said glue. To double up your safety, you could try a caulking type sealer, smear inside on your joins and bingo.
Others may add/ confirm/ or straight up disagree!

the gue i use is structan from the rectavit brand. it's pulyurethane based glue.
so like the plans say use a polyurethane woodworking glue. doesn't have to be
PL or structan , any brand will do as long as it expands enough to fill the gaps.
other people can correct me if i'm wrong.

greetz ketoet

Guido La Fond wrote:
And if i cannot get PL Premium???

Have some friends in Miami buy some and mail it to you.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Guido La Fond wrote:
And if i cannot get PL Premium???

Have some friends in Miami buy some and mail it to you.

Or try Leland at speakerhardware.com

Well the Guerilla is an expanding, so can it work or not???

Guido La Fond wrote:Well the Guerilla is an expanding, so can it work or not???

No. It is not a construction adhesive. If it worked it would be in the plans.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Guido La Fond wrote:Well the Guerilla is an expanding, so can it work or not???

No. It is not a construction adhesive. If it worked it would be in the plans.

Fair enough, point taken

Any more progress?

Guido La Fond wrote:Well the Guerilla is an expanding, so can it work or not???

I bought a bottle of Gorilla glue to see what it's all about. I repaired a wood chair with it, and I can't say I'm impressed; it was still wobbly and loose after using the chair for a day or so. I ended up taking it all apart, cleaned out all the Gorilla glue and re-glued everything with aliphatic resin glue.

I suppose the Gorilla could be used for kid's projects where strength isn't important.

Bottom line is, use the PL or equivalent. Anything else is setting yourself up for problems.

Gorilla Glue will bond and seal just fine. It does not have high strength with large gaps, like most OTS woodworking glues. So you want good tolerances while building which means good tools setup properly and someone who knows how to use them. I use Gorilla Glue on all kinds of woodworking and the wood comes apart long before the adhesive. It also expands very well and I've had zero problems on my 4T48's and 8 OT12. One WH 8 has been a slight problem but that's more build quality since the WH6 was my second build and I've upgraded drivers twice and learned a lot since then.

(It's good to see you back, gdougherty)

Tom Smit wrote:(It's good to see you back, gdougherty)

I stop in now and then. I've been too busy using all my gear.

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:36 pm

Ryan A wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote: huh?
I don't understand, why buy the 18 sounds and then take 20V off their war volume?
I would have figured, with a rig as big as the OP is intending, that every last ounce of juice would count...

Ryan,
the 3015lf limit is 60V and the 18sound 80V, I think there's quite a bit more output in the 18sound based cabs...

That's funny, the 18sound has less xmax than the 3015. How will it take 20 more volts? I think not. Is the 80v for use as a top, perhaps?

From the T48 plans:
"The 3015LF, 4015LF and Lab 15 limit is 60 volts. The limit of the 12NLW9300 is 70 volts, that of the 15NLW9300 80 volts."

Is there an SPL chart for either or both of the 18Sound drivers?

Also, it's only been 5 years. Assuming this monster rig got finished, could the OP please treat us to some pics?