BillFitzmaurice.info

There's a pic somewhere of how to rotate alternate piezo backs so the lugs all line up and a couple of straight pieces of wire can go more or less straight down the middle. You're a smart guy, you can figure it out I'm sure.

Like so.





Makes the wiring a whole lot less cumbersome.

what a beautiful build. I thought staining the wood would better showcase its beauty.

BoostFab wrote:what a beautiful build. I thought staining the wood would better showcase its beauty.

Thanks. As for staining, I already did that on my first Jack 112 with the Koa access panel, and honestly, I probably won't do it again. I find myself making sure I don't scratch it when its being handled. As a bass cab, its cool and gets comments, but I wouldn't do it for a PA, which these are destined for.

For this build, the requisite staples/brads would be too much work to fill, match stain, etc for a non-Duratex finish. Its a chore enough (for me) to get it flat with Bondo, but, it goes really fast, and it doesn't have to be really flat (thank you Duratex), which I found out how flat it doesn't have to be after I sprayed the inside horns.

BTW - it was Antonz pic (in another thread) that gave me the go ahead to cut the tweets the way I did, on my first Jack as well as the Wedgehorn 6's.

Another reason why this forum is so great for sharing ideas and helping guys like me with my builds. Oh no! I said buildS - this was just supposed to be an exercise to build a bass cab for myself. . .

-Aaron

kekani wrote: Another reason why this forum is so great for sharing ideas and helping guys like me with my builds. Oh no! I said buildS - this was just supposed to be an exercise to build a bass cab for myself. . .

-Aaron

Haha! The addiction has begun! Did you buy the CD?

Tom Smit wrote:Haha! The addiction has begun! Did you buy the CD?

The thought had crossed my mind before I ordered my first plan. Seriously, if Bill didn't come out with the Jack Lite, I would be at a total of three (Jack 12, Jack 10 and Wedge 6). As it stands, I just need to get a set of Jack 10L (for my `ukulele player), and of course, I'm thinking of getting a Wedgehorn 8 while I'm at it, BUT, if that's the case, I'll just build a couple more 6's.

I REALLY have no need for any of the subs, and I don't have the space for the DR's (or the subs, which obviously sound too good with each other).

Still, the thought of the CD is on my plate right now. Let me get it off and get my set of Jack 10L's (no build thread on that one since these 12L's should be similar), and no Wedgehorn 8's.

Has anyone wired their tweets with a single wire threaded and soldered through the connections? Seems like a pain, but I tried it and it goes fairly quick. I'll post pics later.

-Aaron

kekani wrote: Has anyone wired their tweets with a single wire threaded and soldered through the connections? Seems like a pain, but I tried it and it goes fairly quick. I'll post pics later.

-Aaron

That's how we do it. Single strand wire looped around each respective lug. Then soldered all at once hands free.

AntonZ wrote:Like so.


Makes the wiring a whole lot less cumbersome.

Drey Chennells wrote:That's how we do it. Single strand wire looped around each respective lug. Then soldered all at once hands free.

AntonZ, do you do anything with the bare wire in the array?

Drey, are you using the bare wire also and do you do anything with it?

I did my last arrays this way and I used liquid electrical tape on the bare wire. It was a pain in the butt. If you guys are wiring them like in the picture and just leaving it that way, that's what I am going to do on my next arrays.

I used 20 or 22 gauge wire, soldered one end on, stretched to the next terminal and allowed some droop, bared the wire there, rinse and repeat for the rest. Pre-soldered the terminals and the bare sections, and then soldered the bare sections to the terminals.

Okay, here's the wire threaded through the tweets:


And the tweets soldered up:


Sneak peek at the dusty cabs, just wanted to see what they look like with the array:


The circuit board makes it so much easier to solder up the crossover/filters. I remember wrapping my head around this for days before I finally figured out how to get through this process. If I knew then what I know now - it would've been on this board. Dry fitted prior to soldering:

You should rearrange your coils so that one of them is vertical and the other horizontal to prevent crosstalk

Other than that - beautiful build and ingenious methods used here and there.. Love it!

Phaedras wrote:You should rearrange your coils so that one of them is vertical and the other horizontal to prevent crosstalk

Other than that - beautiful build and ingenious methods used here and there.. Love it!

Did not know there would be an issue with the coils. . .I'm glad I showed them. I think I have them the same on my Wedgehorns without issues, so far. Got more details on "crosstalk?"

kekani wrote:

Phaedras wrote:You should rearrange your coils so that one of them is vertical and the other horizontal to prevent crosstalk

Other than that - beautiful build and ingenious methods used here and there.. Love it!

Did not know there would be an issue with the coils. . .I'm glad I showed them. I think I have them the same on my Wedgehorns without issues, so far. Got more details on "crosstalk?"

I doubt you'd be able to hear a huge difference, but might aswell get it right when you spend so much time building a beautiful cab

Here's a pretty basic explanation of coil crosstalk.. http://www.audioholics.com/education/lo ... alk-basics

kekani wrote:[Did not know there would be an issue with the coils. ."

It ( magnetic flux ) is the basis of induction and transformer operation ( when desirable )
And "crosstalk" when undesirable.

It's probably a good idea to add some mechanical fixing for the coils rather than just rely on soldered wires. I strap mine down with nylon cables ties which may mean drilling strategically placed additional holes in the pcb. If you use screws (eg through the middle of the coil former) use a nylon screw and nut as metal in the centre of the coil will alter the inductance.


Roger