BillFitzmaurice.info

Thanks for the heads up Harley, just to confirm; it is safe to use around the driver itself? I figure the baffle must be a bit thin where the gasket is causing unsatisfactory sealing.

Titanium Hand wrote:Thanks for the heads up Harley, just to confirm; it is safe to use around the driver itself? I figure the baffle must be a bit thin where the gasket is causing unsatisfactory sealing.

I would not use it to seal a driver. Around yes, but with the driver out whilst curing.

Methink you guys are not on the same page.

Seems something is going on with the baffle that I don't understand. It shouldn't leak unless it's got an obvoius defect. Bondo and a sander would be the go.

What's the deal with "modified" silicon? Afaik silicon fumes do bad things to modern drivers.

Gregory East wrote:What's the deal with "modified" silicon? Afaik silicon fumes do bad things to modern drivers.

Look up Holdfast MSS 220 - that will tell you.

There are no ammonia fumes with it like there is normal silicon. It is also mould resistant.

I use it in all my HEPA filter installs ( operating theatres, clean-rooms, Isolation rooms, PC3 labs etc )

With an activator applied to the surface beforehand, it will stick to steel, aluminium and St St - so much so that you have to use a knife to cut the two pieces apart after curing.

Sounds like the ducks guts of sealers.

I did the tapping, it was actually a breeze. I had done it before in an engineering shop - but that was a past life I'm trying to forget Thanks for your advice Mr Harley.

I don't feel there is a defect as such in the baffle, it may not get 100%, yet for a circle cut with a jigsaw I feel that with the appropriate technique it should be operable.

To clear up my problem; Driver now mounted into baffle, tight as a proverbial....(use your imagination) between the driver and baffle there is the extra gasket provided with the lab 12. I can pinpoint the leak to around the edge of the driver in one small section. I was anticipating the use of some form of caulking compound to smear around the leak forming the coveted seal I require. Its such a slight leak, I have to exert considerable force onto the driver to push it down enough to hear the air hiss out.

I know the rules air tight or nothing.

So I've been scouring the hardware merchants hunting out a suitable sealant. I found on Myn's THT build thread a very interesting idea; Bill recommended that he could use hot glue to sort out leaks adjacent to the driver (his was in the gasket itself) sounds pretty easy as I feel my leak is between the gasket and the baffle where alignment is a tad off possibly causing skewing of the gasket and a leak.
I'm going to sleep on it and if nothing else comes up I'll have a crack at the hot glue.

I've spent all afternoon getting acquainted with 60 through 240 grit abrasive paper and 'Builders Bog' dust. I purchased an oil based primer / undercoat / sealer to start the painting tomorrow.

Is it necessary to remove the driver from the cab prior to painting? Do paint fumes screw with Lab 12's or am I safe

Thanks all

Titanium Hand wrote:Is it necessary to remove the driver from the cab prior to painting? Do paint fumes screw with Lab 12's or am I safe

I'd remove it for painting. Why take a chance? Easier to move the cab around without the extra wieght.

Covered in Dust an paint I've had an interesting couple of days!
I decided to go down the path of oil based paints. Using a foam roller I've applied two coats of british paints Primer/Sealer/Undercoat. Sanded it with 240grit in between the coats.

They are looking pretty good thus far. Evenly coated and the texture discrepancies between the Bondo and the Arauco have disappeared. I've not entirely settled on final finishing yet. Thinking of sanding to 400grit before rolling on 2 to 3 coats of black. I have seen numerous pots called 'Gloss Black Enamel', and feel that they may be the go. Alternatively I could apply coats of polyurethane over the top of the black.

Anybody got any ideas? Yes I did remove the driver. I was going to engage my panel beater friend to spray it but at the eleventh hour chose to have a go at getting a respectable finish myself. My dust proof room is working well thus far!

Unbelieveable Oil Based paint fumes are incredible, PL and Bondo have got nothing compared to the paint!
I went with Dulux Super Enamel High Gloss Black, it was pretty darn good to work with.
To create a texture contrast and save a hell of a lot of sanding, I prepared the back, top and panel 5A (door) as best as I could. Leaving the mouth and two sides to create a stippled effect.
Prior to adding the first coat of colour, I smoothed off the panels with the bulk going with good quality anti-clog 120grit. Followed by 400grit wet & dry. Soo much undercoat came off to get the desired level of smoothness, which was quite unnerving, well worth it though.
To remove the dust I swept the cabs with a soft hand broom followed with a t-shirt dampened with Mineral Turps. Then left them in my designated painting room to dry for 20 minutes. It was about 26 degrees outside yet my painting room was a downstairs bedroom part underground and well insulated constant temperature of about 18 probably.
I thinned the paint down a touch with turps along with soaking the roller and wringing it out before commencing painting. The external panels were a breeze to paint, even wearing a good quality respirator the fumes were still intense by the time I got to painting the mouths, which I gave limited preparation still turned out ok.
Used around 200mls for the first coat which was less than half the amount for undercoat.
The following day I was well impressed with the first coat, although dust still finds its way onto black paint no matter how hard you try. I spent a good hour and a half (at least) per cab sanding with block then hand with 600grit followed by 800grit wet and dry. A few spots went back to undercoat. This delivered a pretty nice finish, leaving only say 5% of the surface stippling but I can live with that. If not for the little bits of undercoat that were showing through I feel that with the right type of polish it would have come up a treat. The panels I didn't sand still looked great and shiny with the desired stippled effect.
After the second coat, this time using a 5mm nap mohair roller, they really look great. Still copped some bloody dust, but thats life. They now have a finish that I'm 85% happy with. I figure that I've come this far I may as well wet and dry them again with 800 or maybe even 1000grit wet & dry and finish them off with some type of automotive or furniture polish or wax?

Does anybody know of a product that I could use that will be compatible with Oil Based Enamel

Thanks very much