Table Tuba build!!

[digital_chris]

If you're pushing the cab hard a 30Hz high pass filter would be in order. Peak to peak capability of the driver is over a half inch, which is a lot.

I actually have the 30hz hpf in place for the sub amp but I'm worried about the woofers in my front speakers. I just don't know enough about speakers to tell when I'm driving them too hard. There were a few scenes in a movie that I watched last night that were pretty aggressive on my speakers, I think. Sounded great but, too much? Idk :-/[/quote]

[Radian]

Sounded great but, too much?

Buy or dig out a multimeter....put your mind at ease.

[digital_chris]

Well, I hooked up my Fluke and saw up to 8-9 volts at the peaks of those certain scenes. I did have it turned down a little from what it was before but still at a good volume. Even if I'm hitting in the mid teens for votls, it's not that much juice going to the speakers. On the other hand, I hear that the tall spikes in power are the spikes we can't see on a fluke so I could be pushing my speakers too hard and not even know it

On a different note, my Foster amp came yesterday, right when I started to sand the cab, lol. That only means I have to finish dressing up my TT FAST!!!

[Radian]

On the other hand, I hear that the tall spikes in power are the spikes we can't see on a fluke so I could be pushing my speakers too hard and not even know it

Ahh hog-wersh...

Depending on what model Fluke you've got, it's peak min/max hold AC transient response is 1 ms (or better on specific models). That's good for picking up AC transients below 500 Hz. It's what you paid the big bucks for.

This is a feature not only unique to Fluke DMM's, but other high quality units from several respected manufacturers as well. Industry relies on equipment of this caliber 24/7 to troubleshoot and protect assets of significantly higher value than subwoofers.

http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/dow ... 12_a_w.pdf

Use this feature of your meter and you'll be in the clear to explore the limits of your new sub.

[digital_chris]

Unfortunately, I have an older model and I don't think it has the min/max feature. I can't remember what model it is but it is similar to the 8060a. I'll check in the morning.

[digital_chris]

UPDATE! I got my amp installed today! Now I need to go downstairs and finish up the TT

After the amp was installed, I realized maybe I could of put the amp on the other side of the outlet to make it a shorter run for the power cord but in the future, I'd actually like to remove the power cord from the front and have it come out the back into it's own power feed to give the install a cleaner look.

I did put it on the right for a reason though, which is because the AVR will be on the right side of the entertainment center and it will be a shorter run for the subwoofer cable.

Check it out!



Yes, I still need to touch up my trim




I also noticed the last few pictures I took inside that room are way off color, the door is freakin' yellow (yukk), not white like it should be. Oh well, gotta work on my photography skillz :p

[mems]

Same color and trim I have in my living room. Looks great. I can't wait to get to a point where I'm installing equipment like this in here. This is inspirational for sure. Nice work!

[digital_chris]

Thanks mems! Check back in a few days for the final install of the TT! I can't wait myself

[digital_chris]

Staining is NOT fun for a beginner

I just started staining my cab tonight. Using Minwax water-based stain, color Onyx, man I thought this would be easier. I figured I'd do the top first so I pre conditioned it and that went well. Then the staining? That's another story. I applied my first coat and waited too long before I wiped off the excess so it started drying before I could wipe it evenly, needless to say, it came out like garbage. After it dried a while, I sanded that down a bit to even it out and added another coat, came out better but not nearly as dark as I was hoping. So, I waited the recommended 2 hrs and applied another coat, STILL not dark like it should be. Ugh, such a pain. I thought the stain would soak in a lot more. I messed up one of the legs too, the wood filler I used sticks out like a sore thumb even after a good sanding. I think I might sand the WHOLE thing down and either try it again or see if one of my buddy's is a good wood finisher.

I thought this would be an easy process but I'm not having fun with it right now

[LelandCrooks]

Staining is NOT fun for a beginner

Staining is not fun period.

[Drey Chennells]

Sorry to hear that. Staining can be a breeze if some basic prep and application rules are followed. Going back in and sanding down post stain is not what you want to get stuck doing,gumming up your paper, inconsistent levels and such..Pre conditioning evens out the finish with less grain pop but will decrease saturation and require more coats as you've discovered. The wood filler is though, not all filler takes stain well, check the tub for suitability and sand down the filler as much as possible. Use more conditioner if you can over the legs and spot seal the filler, may help for consistency when you reapply.
good luck

[digital_chris]

Thanks for the knowledge Drey

Alright, pheww (wipes sweat off forehead). I am almost done staining the cab. After doing it a little more, I have a much better sense of how long to keep the stain on and how to wipe/blend, etc. It has taken 3 coats to get the desired depth and after that I will be putting a clear matte finish on top, should look well.

I'll keep the thread posted

[Harley]

Staining is not fun period.

Especially when you spill red wine on The War Office's bedroom carpet

[Drey Chennells]

I have a much better sense of how long to keep the stain on and how to wipe/blend, etc. It has taken 3 coats to get the desired depth and after that I will be putting a clear matte finish on top, should look well.

I'll keep the thread posted

sounds nice!

[bossman]

I didn't even know you could use stain on MDF. I am curious to see how it comes out.