BillFitzmaurice.info

Bruce Weldy wrote:

hifibob wrote: The Display just lights up but no text shows.. It doesn't work either.. Its done it to me a few times and I just unplugged it for a few hours and it started working again..

The DRPAs have ribbon connectors in 'em. Take it apart, pull the connectors and clean all of them with a Q-tip and some denatured alcohol. Or, you can use a clean pencil eraser. Then shoot 'em with some DeOxit 5 and put 'em back together.

The band I run sound for picked one up for next to nothing because the display didn't work all the time. Did the above fix and it has worked perfect ever since.

You might have a bigger problem, but doing what I described can't hurt it in any way.

Sweet thanks Bruce, that would be great if that solves the problem.. Its brand new and only has a few hours on it but I bought it off ebay for 600 bux so I have no warranty

Bob: I think the DRs are great as-is. No need to install any cosmetic edging or whatever. Being that their ultimate home is permanently installed in a club, where they will blend in with the black ceiling/walls/dark room, why bother? You have built Stealth 105mm Howitzer Cannons; let them hide in the bushes and *BOOM* pick off unsuspecting *BOOM* gear snobs *BOOOM* one by one.

hifibob wrote: Sweet thanks Bruce, that would be great if that solves the problem.. Its brand new and only has a few hours on it but I bought it off ebay for 600 bux so I have no warranty

hmmmm......shouldn't have connection problems on a new one - but, like I said, you can't hurt it.

It is always a good idea to "Discharge to Ground" any built up static electricity when opening/working inside of electronic equipment containing IC's.

Some use a "Ground Strap" attached to a ground point at one end and the other end is placed around the wrist.

I prefer to simply touch my hands to an exposed chassis ground point(shiny metal surface) inside the item being serviced and don't shuffle your feet afterwards.

I have experienced discharge sparks up to 1/4" in length depending on current footwear/carpet/humidity conditions.

It goes without saying equipment should be serviced unplugged/unpowered if possible.

Better safe than sorry.

Respectfully, Rickisan

hifibob wrote:
Should I seriously consider the DCX2496?

With the amount you have riding on your system I'd say a non-eq'ed second rig, maybe 2 of your T60's and 2 DR's that are in the middle should be constantly ready to go (wired with a second speakon cable parallel on seperate amps which of course would not be powered on unless the main system gets knocked out for whatever reasons). This will be enough to keep your show going while you fix the problem, just be sure to have the DJ do a really big sweep so it's a natural transition when you power the main system back online .

It also works to have the DCX preconfigured with a switchbox such that the press of a button reroute's the DJ's audio through the DCX and then through the amps (first solution may be simpler).
I mean heck you can find one for 150-200 used/like new. Let us all know if/when you get the DRPA rock solid.

Rickisan wrote:It is always a good idea to "Discharge to Ground" any built up static electricity when opening/working inside of electronic equipment containing IC's.

Some use a "Ground Strap" attached to a ground point at one end and the other end is placed around the wrist.

I prefer to simply touch my hands to an exposed chassis ground point(shiny metal surface) inside the item being serviced and don't shuffle your feet afterwards.

I have experienced discharge sparks up to 1/4" in length depending on current footwear/carpet/humidity conditions.

It goes without saying equipment should be serviced unplugged/unpowered if possible.

Better safe than sorry.

Respectfully, Rickisan

Thanks for the tip Rickisan.. I did open it up today without a shock but no luck.. She's dead

MissileCrisis wrote:

hifibob wrote:
Should I seriously consider the DCX2496?

With the amount you have riding on your system I'd say a non-eq'ed second rig, maybe 2 of your T60's and 2 DR's that are in the middle should be constantly ready to go (wired with a second speakon cable parallel on seperate amps which of course would not be powered on unless the main system gets knocked out for whatever reasons). This will be enough to keep your show going while you fix the problem, just be sure to have the DJ do a really big sweep so it's a natural transition when you power the main system back online .

It also works to have the DCX preconfigured with a switchbox such that the press of a button reroute's the DJ's audio through the DCX and then through the amps (first solution may be simpler).
I mean heck you can find one for 150-200 used/like new. Let us all know if/when you get the DRPA rock solid.

That's a great idea! This 260 dying has got me nervous its gonna quit during business.. Will having a back up amplifier being paralleled into another amp affect the impedance even though its switched off?

It would mean more switches and more signal cable and plugs, but they are cheap compared to amps:

1 switch for input (or two for stereo), in one position the signal is going to the DRPA. Flick the switch it's going to the other unit.

1 switch for sub out. In one position it's coming from DRPA, in the other position it's coming from the other unit

Same for left and right tops.

If you get ganged switches with the toggles linked together, they will all throw at the same time.

Mount it all in a metal box so you have shielding and don't introduce hum...

Back at it again!! 5 more tubas coming up...

The adventure continues!

Great shop. Good work. Awesome progress. Incredible subject matter.

I thought I was over my jealousy until I saw that you also have a floor drain.....

Must be nice.

draehn wrote:The adventure continues!

Great shop. Good work. Awesome progress. Incredible subject matter.

I thought I was over my jealousy until I saw that you also have a floor drain.....

Must be nice.

Haha.. Thanks draehn I appreciate it! The drain is nice just gotta keep the saw dust out of it.

I noticed before (so now I'll ask), what is the stud wall for? It seems like it is removed from the wall by approx. 6".

Tom Smit wrote:I noticed before (so now I'll ask), what is the stud wall for? It seems like it is removed from the wall by approx. 6".

I stole this space from my motorcycle shop. It use to be our parts room so I built a second floor to relocate the parts so I could build speakers the wall behind the studs has big horizontal steal braces that stick out so I had to space the wall out to accommodate them. Oddly it worked out to my favor cus it alows me to store stuff.

hifibob wrote:

Tom Smit wrote:I noticed before (so now I'll ask), what is the stud wall for? It seems like it is removed from the wall by approx. 6".

I stole this space from my motorcycle shop. It use to be our parts room so I built a second floor to relocate the parts so I could build speakers the wall behind the studs has big horizontal steal braces that stick out so I had to space the wall out to accommodate them. Oddly it worked out to my favor cus it alows me to store stuff.

Cool.

Sorry its been so quiet guys.. I was at a little stand still with the club's parking. Meanwhile I banged out the another 4 T60's.. I cant wait to hear all 8 of them I'm waiting for a my Driverack to come back from repair or a my new one I got for a back up to arrive and I can start playing again! Here's a shot of the Tubas stacking up!