BillFitzmaurice.info

Well the glue ups are done! Got all 6 melded arrays done.. I've never used airplane glue, is this stuff strong like CA? The stuff I bought comes out white and dries clear?

Looking good, Bob. Isn't that simple jig just the cat's meow? I built two jigs for the piezos as I had straight arrays too, and I'm so glad I did. Makes this task much simpler than trying to freehand it. Just make sure you flip the array over and glob some glue on the fronts where the halves meet as well. I used PVC cement (that Leland sells) when I did my arrays. It is black, thick like tar, gets you stoned from 19 feet away and literally melts plastic. That's how it "bonds" the plastic. It melts it together. Worked great though.

If you don't want to buy black ABS glue (from Leland), you can get a very similar result with acetone.
Keep on dribbling in bits of black plastic cutoffs from when you you were making the cuts on the piezo's, until you get a nice black thicker consistency.
Then use at will...

Maybe the Jack 12 array is different but the plans say make all cuts the lug end, curious as to why you alternated cuts?

johns811 wrote:Maybe the Jack 12 array is different but the plans say make all cuts the lug end, curious as to why you alternated cuts?

To make wiring them up easier. All the + terminals are now in a straight line. Same w/the - terminals.

miked wrote:

johns811 wrote:Maybe the Jack 12 array is different but the plans say make all cuts the lug end, curious as to why you alternated cuts?

To make wiring them up easier. All the + terminals are now in a straight line. Same w/the - terminals.

I did the same thing with My wedge build not by choice but more by accident.

Hey guys, how much should I damp my cabs? I did the sides and the top is that enough?

I would put more:
Up near the ports, behind the crossover up to the baffle, and around the driver on the baffle...
Did you remember to put pillow stuffing in before the sheaths went on?

I would add foam on all surfaces including the module back (x-over excluded). pg 41

Did you put the stuffing around the horn throats, as well?

Tom Smit wrote:I would add foam on all surfaces including the module back (x-over excluded). pg 41

Did you put the stuffing around the horn throats, as well?

Ahh Thanks Tom! I knew I had read it somewhere but I couldn't find it in the plans. Getting blind in my old age lol. I did get the throats filled and learned to fill them when installing the PVC next time

YW

Inductor still need rotating

sine143 wrote:Inductor still need rotating

+1 Stand the smaller one up on it's rounded end and hot glue the shit out of it.

If you see anything bare, cover it in foam or stuff it with polyester. Cover all flat surfaces with the foam, and loosely stuff any voids. It's worth the extra effort.

sine143 wrote:Inductor still need rotating

+1 Stand the smaller one up on it's rounded end and hot glue the shit out of it.

If you see anything bare, cover it in foam or stuff it with polyester. Cover all flat surfaces with the foam, and loosely stuff any voids. It's worth the extra effort.

Thanks guys! I got impatient today and fired up two DR's!!!!

Well considering I only had my 10 band EQ in my Iphone.... Holy shit! LOUD CLEAR and CRISP! I only had about 5 volts max ran into them, I cant imagine them at max voltage. Now I just have to figure this Driverack 260 out and hook up my 4 completed T60's..

I cant believe you've made it this long without making with the boom boom. about 18 hours after I get the access panel on i'm banging stuff around usually lol.