BillFitzmaurice.info

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:And as I already stated this warmth occurs in the mids, not the bass, so there's no point whatsoever to using a tube amp with a sub, unless you need the amp to serve double duty by heating the venue at the same time.

Sorry for the confusion, I was trying to crack a joke.

LelandCrooks wrote:Especially the highly compressed no dynamic range crap we get now.

Sounds like a problem with the studios more than a problem with the media format and playback technology. What would be a good way to protest that we'd like the dynamics back into the mixes?



About the Valve:

I watched the videos. Not inspiring at all. Emulation under the influence of ignorance is not uncommon behavior. Cargo cults were formed in the countries of Melanesia in response to exposure to technology of Pacific military activity they had never seen before. The tribes built mock air strips, imitation military paraphernalia, and worshiped the sky in the hopes that planes would come and bring them wealth. To this day, these activities are still performed in light of their absurdity.

"'Warmth' is a euphemistic term for what is a combination of odd-order harmonic distortion and compression, which is how tube amps color response."

I heard it was the opposite, that during clipping the tube amps distort in even order. I've never used a tube amp but that's how I figured a lot of tube amps got away with being low wattage. You crank it up, it clips, but you don't automatically realize it because it doesn't sound as shitty as when an SS amp clips. And an SS amp does sound kinda shitty when it clips right?

And yes...

http://musicpictures.com/ln_pictures/sy ... STEM_6.JPG

those are Crest 8001/9001s, all solid state high power amps with no valves. Sorry dude.

I am a fan of Dillinja and Lemon D tracks and will hold judgement on the sound system unless I ever actually hear it. I don't necessarily subscribe to the whole "if it sounds cleaner on paper it sounds cleaner in real life" ethos either, though I'm willing to bet Bill has the right idea here. I have respect for Valve for what it is and that it exists but with similar money, I'd have gone a different route.

thanks guys. iv learnt loads. and i dont care what you all think it sounds like, its one of the best sounding in the world i guess 6 0r 8 t 48s 4 dr280s n something for mid not 2 sure how many amps or what crest 9001s would be nice very pricy tho.

thanks for that pic ther 9001s i think
also what are the best drivers?

bigwill wrote:thanks guys. iv learnt loads. and i dont care what you all think it sounds like, its one of the best sounding in the world i guess 6 0r 8 t 48s 4 dr280s n something for mid not 2 sure how many amps or what crest 9001s would be nice very pricy tho.

It has been proven that turds are polishable....

bigwill wrote: i guess 6 0r 8 t 48s 4 dr280s n something for mid ...

Help us out by defining "mid", I know there have been a few discussions here about "kick bins" from a few in the DnB crowd so I'm guessing maybe that's where you're headed.

Generally the DR280's will easily handle any mid you throw at them, and by mid I'm including both the mid bass kick from the bass drum as well as any midrange from synth, vocal, etc.

You really don't need a 4 way system, T48's and DR280's will work just fine. Running a 3 way arrangement will also save you some $$ with the reduced need for amps, processing, and speakers.

so if for inetance 6 t48s n 4 dr280s. how much power how many amps and how would u set it up ie 2 t48 linked per channel? i think thats gona kick the shits n make peeps throw up/ u guys know so much more than i. the polished turds are cool. haha

perhaps 2 of these or something like that. do you link 3 speakers per channel 2 create 2 ohms? is this best?

bigwill wrote:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dap-Vision-5000W- ... 3ef6f1788d

WAY MORE than you should use or need. 3 T48's in parallel are a 3.33 Ohm load to the amp. You need only 1350 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms Stereo to drive 3 per side to the limit. It is not wise to over-power horn loaded sub, as you will never hear them complain. Plus, I doubt you will ever drive them that hard, anyway. If you do need to drive them to the limit, add more cabs to the pile. Read the sub placement sticky, and follow it. Don't separate your subs by less that 56 feet (a little over 17 meters)

are you sure T48's will go low enough for dubstep and d&b ? looks like it is -10db at 40hz and only start to get efficient around 60hz.

anybody has a comparison plot on a T48 vs THT btw ?

paul_ulrix wrote:are you sure T48's will go low enough for dubstep and d&b ? looks like it is -10db at 40hz and only start to get efficient around 60hz.

anybody has a comparison plot on a T48 vs THT btw ?

The OP does not mention DnB or DubStep, only Top 40, Pop and Hip-Hop. For Dnb and DubStep, you want T36's, or, as Wisounds has proven, THT's. At least 4 of either.

DJPhatman wrote:The OP does not mention DnB or DubStep

Talking of Valve Sound, starting with this post...

bigwill wrote:i want to build a system for drum and bass events. i want to build a few 1000 watt valve amps. what is best titan 48 or ? how should i do it what horns to use. any advice is needed please help thanks. Will

Oh, and is comb filtering an issue when your head's in the speaker box? That's the best listening position...

ok well tuba 36s, which 1 the mid size 25" wide with 1 15"? or 2 15" 36"wide?

bigwill wrote:ok well tuba 36s, which 1 the mid size 25" wide with 1 15"? or 2 15" 36"wide?

Build as wide as you can and still get it through doorways. I would stay away from the T36 at 36" wide unless you plan on permanently installing it somewhere.

You can build them anywhere from 20" wide to 36" wide - the wider it is, the better the low end extension and response.