BillFitzmaurice.info

kenkenni wrote:Gotcha! I been on ebay trying to source me a couple of hold-downs also. I'm also messing with the idea of
using small wood dowels to have the work piece slide against in conjunction with the saw fence to help keep
the boards locked in while also allowing movement along the table.

Never lock your work piece in whilst sliding it.Only lock when using a circular hand saw or router from overhead to keep the work piece still.
If you lock in from both sides and you have kickback or other adjustment problems the likely hood of injury is very high.
You will get used to working with the RAR it does not take long, you just need to be aware of the danger of overhead cutting and never take it for granted that it won't happen.I seen it too many times with overconfidence staff that used a machine they were not trained on and did not have a clue of the dangers.
Stick to the rules.

kenkenni wrote:No Bruce . I mean to drill small holes beside a piece of stock on the surface of the table top board the size of whatever small dowels
I intend to use. I will only drill just enough to seat the dowels up against the board allowing just enough room to easily push through
to the blade. It is only an idea for now. I will be getting proper hold-downs off ebay.

OH......now I see what you want to do. What you really need is a featherboard - one on the table to keep the board against the fence and one on the fence to keep the board against the table......

Or, find a used Craftsman table saw and buy it. Cuts will be cleaner, faster, and definitely safer.

i know the plans require you to draw out the horn lines on the tops and bottoms, but to save
time and to ensure they end up in the same locations I want to do them like in the pics here.
I draw up one completed layout, stack the pieces, and intersect the lines from the top of the
stack to the sides sorta like a line map I guess you could call it. When the pieces are separated
I just take my square and extend the lines from the sides to the top of the piece. I would like
to no if anyone has a different system that they use to speed up the process.

kenkenni wrote:i know the plans require you to draw out the horn lines on the tops and bottoms, but to save
time and to ensure they end up in the same locations I want to do them like in the pics here.
I draw up one completed layout, stack the pieces, and intersect the lines from the top of the
stack to the sides sorta like a line map I guess you could call it. When the pieces are separated
I just take my square and extend the lines from the sides to the top of the piece. I would like
to no if anyone has a different system that they use to speed up the process.

You will get errors in the measurements or a few millimeters either way.
Best to my thinking is to mark out that way for rough, cut your first panel as a template and use that to mark up all the following ones.That way that all will be the same.
You can screw a marked straight edge to the template to help you line up when setting out.

Mkulu wrote:

kenkenni wrote:Gotcha! I been on ebay trying to source me a couple of hold-downs also. I'm also messing with the idea of
using small wood dowels to have the work piece slide against in conjunction with the saw fence to help keep
the boards locked in while also allowing movement along the table.

Never lock your work piece in whilst sliding it.Only lock when using a circular hand saw or router from overhead to keep the work piece still.
If you lock in from both sides and you have kickback or other adjustment problems the likely hood of injury is very high.
You will get used to working with the RAR it does not take long, you just need to be aware of the danger of overhead cutting and never take it for granted that it won't happen.I seen it too many times with overconfidence staff that used a machine they were not trained on and did not have a clue of the dangers.
Stick to the rules.

Another way of locking down the work piece is to build a vacuum table for your machine.
They are very simple to make and can be run off a cheap household vacuum cleaner.
Here is a very easy link to a design and demo, you can make it smaller and with ply off cuts.
And it's not rocket science.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXD5r0haXFw

Story stick.

That Story Stick idea is somewhat what I was trying to accomplish. Another builder on here built his Jacks up by attaching the
sides first. Thinking about going that route too.

Today was a little frustrating but rewarding also. For some reason my sides were not cutting square no matter how careful I
was with setting up the cuts. I cut all four sides twice at least. Second time was a charm even though I had break out the
router to flush trim the edges. All the sides are squared up evenly now. The ruined sides became the smaller parts for the
Jacks so no material was wasted.

On another note. I realized that I will have extra material left over so now I'm thinking it's going to be used for an Auto Tuba
for my Honda Accord. Leaning towards the Tang Band as the driver because of all the good reviews.

Oh boy. You are going to loooove going for a ride in the car.

Yeah I've been wanting to build one when the time was right.

I have a question about the phase plug extensions. Just to make sure,
since I have a 6" phase plug I would need to add one 6" diameter disc to the
plug and on top of that add a 5" disc. Or I can add a regular 6" foam disc
and on top of that add a 5"foam cylinder cut in half right?

Tom Smit wrote:Oh boy. You are going to loooove going for a ride in the car.

All I'll say is "Shit eating grins!"

kenkenni wrote: I have a question about the phase plug extensions. Just to make sure,
since I have a 6" phase plug I would need to add one 6" diameter disc to the
plug and on top of that add a 5" disc. Or I can add a regular 6" foam disc
and on top of that add a 5"foam cylinder cut in half right?

You have a 2 Khz crossover, correct? The plans that I read mention that the plug should be a 5"

Tom this is what I got from the plans.

The size of the circle depends on the high frequency horn.
With all options except the 1.2kHz crossover compression driver, including no HF horn, the circle is 5 inches diameter.
With the 1.2kHz crossover compression driver option only the circle is six inches diameter.

Dammit! How did I miss that. Since the ASD 1001s are 2.5khz The phase plug should be 5" Good thing that's an easy fix.
Going to have to route out another inch from the phase plug.

Thanks for that Tom!

You're welcome.

I started gluing up the throat panels and duct ports today. Got to the baffle and was test fitting and realized
that the throat/duct assembly's edges are not sitting flush with the edges of the baffle. I have about a 1/8"
to 1/4" overlap over the edges of the baffle. Not too happy. I guess I got a little to crazy cutting up the Baffle.
The port/ducts assembly measurements are spot on, so I'll be using what I have assembled of them to go
back and re-cut the baffles using them as a general outline of where lines are supposed to be. Not giving up
though.

kenkenni wrote:Thanks guys. I read all the horror stories. Most of the cuts happened before the recall. The new blade guard and safety
accessories that they provided as part of the recall eliminated some of the issues. I will watch myself though.

The new blade guard and safety accessories protect Craftsman from product liability suits, only your care and diligence protect you from cutting your fingers off.