BillFitzmaurice.info

MA043HA wrote:

whines wrote:I've done it both ways, never going back to T-nuts.

that's great. The voice of experience! Care to explain why? Advantages/disadvantages when it comes to ease of installation? Does the non-Tnut method have a tendency to strip the screws in the wood with repeated installations? If not, why not?

I just noted that the older plans for the THTLP do call for T-nuts. Why the change?

Once you have slap tested, all things being equal, you are going to only have to drive screws one more time! ie install the driver at build finish.
If you insert the screws by hand initially, they will find their own way into the threads that have been created by previous insertion.

Tnuts can be a total PITA. They require precise placement, and careful alignment before you wind the bolts into them. Unless you use a method to ensure it doesn't happen (eg a small screw in one of the Tnut "flanges"), even with epoxy, they can come loose and spin, making it almost impossible, or at least very difficult, to remove the bolt without some sort of damage to either the driver or the cab.

Lots of people perceive an issue using screws, and that issue is one of their ability to hold the driver.
Needless to say, if this was an actual issue, it would not be a method in the plans...

MA043HA wrote:

whines wrote:I've done it both ways, never going back to T-nuts.

that's great. The voice of experience! Care to explain why? Advantages/disadvantages when it comes to ease of installation? Does the non-Tnut method have a tendency to strip the screws in the wood with repeated installations? If not, why not?

I just noted that the older plans for the THTLP do call for T-nuts. Why the change?

Besides what Grant said about T-nuts, it has been experienced by some that there are air leaks through the threads of the machine screw. Another thing is that many have ended up with epoxy or PL in the threads, and that bunged up the situation.

After the screws have been installed into wood, and then removed, it is easy for the screw to find it's own thread again. Just put the screw into the hole lightly, rotate the screw counter-clockwise until you can feel it drop into the thread after which you turn the screw clockwise finger tight. Do this with all the screws until they are all started, and then use a driver to finish installing. one has to use light pressure or one will not feel the screw drop into the previously made thread.

If, for some reason, the threads get stripped out, it is easy to repair just by installing a dowel-like piece of wood and then redrilling once the glue is dry.

Grant Bunter wrote:

MA043HA wrote:

whines wrote:I've done it both ways, never going back to T-nuts.

that's great. The voice of experience! Care to explain why? Advantages/disadvantages when it comes to ease of installation? Does the non-Tnut method have a tendency to strip the screws in the wood with repeated installations? If not, why not?

I just noted that the older plans for the THTLP do call for T-nuts. Why the change?

Once you have slap tested, all things being equal, you are going to only have to drive screws one more time! ie install the driver at build finish.
If you insert the screws by hand initially, they will find their own way into the threads that have been created by previous insertion.

Tnuts can be a total PITA. They require precise placement, and careful alignment before you wind the bolts into them. Unless you use a method to ensure it doesn't happen (eg a small screw in one of the Tnut "flanges"), even with epoxy, they can come loose and spin, making it almost impossible, or at least very difficult, to remove the bolt without some sort of damage to either the driver or the cab.

Lots of people perceive an issue using screws, and that issue is one of their ability to hold the driver.
Needless to say, if this was an actual issue, it would not be a method in the plans...

Thanks Grant!

Tom Smit wrote:

MA043HA wrote:

whines wrote:I've done it both ways, never going back to T-nuts.

that's great. The voice of experience! Care to explain why? Advantages/disadvantages when it comes to ease of installation? Does the non-Tnut method have a tendency to strip the screws in the wood with repeated installations? If not, why not?

I just noted that the older plans for the THTLP do call for T-nuts. Why the change?

Besides what Grant said about T-nuts, it has been experienced by some that there are air leaks through the threads of the machine screw. Another thing is that many have ended up with epoxy or PL in the threads, and that bunged up the situation.

After the screws have been installed into wood, and then removed, it is easy for the screw to find it's own thread again. Just put the screw into the hole lightly, rotate the screw counter-clockwise until you can feel it drop into the thread after which you turn the screw clockwise finger tight. Do this with all the screws until they are all started, and then use a driver to finish installing. one has to use light pressure or one will not feel the screw drop into the previously made thread.

If, for some reason, the threads get stripped out, it is easy to repair just by installing a dowel-like piece of wood and then redrilling once the glue is dry.

Thanks Tom and Grant! Nothing like a thorough explanation. I think I'm going to like this forum.

Still looking for an answer to this question if anyone can help me out:

Is the Behringer Nu4-6000 well suited for 2x THTLP and 2x Floorstanding loudspeakers (Statements II, Jim Holtz)

(One loudspeaker on each of four channels)

Thanks!

zpro wrote:Still looking for an answer to this question if anyone can help me out:
Is the Behringer Nu4-6000 well suited for 2x THTLP and 2x Floorstanding loudspeakers (Statements II, Jim Holtz)

Try here:
http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewforum.php?f=6

One of the issues with pro amps in the home environment is the fan noise and the inuke's are particularly loud. You can google inuke fan replacement mod to install a quieter fan but you will still want it in a case or another room as the fan noise is annoying during quiet movie passages.

Ok thanks for the info, I will look into other options.

If anyone has suggestions I am all ears...

There are amps that don't have fans, like the A500:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3 ... mount.html

Not a specific recommendation, I haven't used one myself, but others have. It's probably plenty powerful enough.

I drive my mains and surrounds with an AVR, my TT with a 100w plate amp mounted in it's own box.

One more question:

Planning on working on the finish for the THT this weekend... I was wondering what I should fill the screw holes with?

I am not planning on painting it, so perhaps something that will somewhat match the color of the wood?

I am planning on staining them or simply varnishing.

I know that I could use PL, but it is grey...

Thanks.

Stainable wood filler?

Ok thanks!