BillFitzmaurice.info

Hmm. Well, you could just live with it, panel 8 is the top, so it would be visibly out of square. PL would probably still fill the gap between the 2nd side and panel 8.

If it was me, I would cut panel 8 off the cab with a circ saw, sand down the mating edges back to normal and start again with a new panel 8. Use a sled to cut the panel off so that you don't deviate into any other panels, and leave 1mm clearance and sand the rest. But that's me and I'm pretty fussy.

Someone with more experience may have a better solution..

What's your method for installing the panels in regards to fastening? I would recommend a Brad nailer if you can (Ie if you have a compressor). It's quick, and you can tack one brad on one end of the panel, tack the other end and then check for squareness before you run brads along each edge. That way, if the panel has drifted out of place, you can use a hammer to tap it back into place, as the single brad will bend. Then put another brad in next to the first, and re check for squareness, alter again if necessary, then fasten away.

What's this quick set PU that you're using? Regular set time is better as it allows you more time to alter anything before the glue sets... 5 mins is way fast IMO.

Thanks for the advice guys i appreciate it. See i would do that if i had any more wood availible to me. But the closest source of birch ply is up the country amd costs a fortune to ship down. I was thinking what if i used some sort of thin blade e.g. Hacksaw blade or something similar and hugged the face of panel 7? Then if i filled in the space with PU glue? I dont have the bame of the glue on hand at the moment but will update shortly

This is the tool you need. It can un-PL anything that you happened to PL. It is an oscillating saw that barely touches the wood. It will separate that glue joint without making a mess.

CoronaOperator wrote:This is the tool you need. It can un-PL anything that you happened to PL. It is an oscillating saw that barely touches the wood. It will separate that glue joint without making a mess.

You are the light of my life.

CoronaOperator wrote:This is the tool you need.

+1. I very seldom use mine, but it's invaluable, as it can do things that nothing else can.

commander_dan wrote:What's your method for installing the panels in regards to fastening? I would recommend a Brad nailer if you can (Ie if you have a compressor). It's quick, and you can tack one brad on one end of the panel, tack the other end and then check for squareness before you run brads along each edge. That way, if the panel has drifted out of place, you can use a hammer to tap it back into place, as the single brad will bend. Then put another brad in next to the first, and re check for squareness, alter again if necessary, then fasten away.

What's this quick set PU that you're using? Regular set time is better as it allows you more time to alter anything before the glue sets... 5 mins is way fast IMO.

I do actually have an air compressor at my disposal so maybe I should look into one since I'm going to be building my Otops once I find the time to finish my tubas. The PU glue i'm using is nothing too special. Got it from a local builder providers. (can't find any pictures on hand and the glue's all the way in the workshop..)

You guys are my heros. The oscillating saw was absolutely unbelievable and rescued the panel perfectly. I was absolutely beaming and spent a further 8 hours in the workshop cutting and finishing pieces. I have a few pictures of the outcome of using the saw and i was pretty amazed to say the least.
Cut my panel 9s and 11s, as well as my 2/8 braces and 1/10 braces and installed the former. Managed to install my 9's and the 2/8 braces without a hitch. I called it a night once i had trimmed up the sides of the handles in panel 10. I figured 2 vertical handles should be ample (one in 7 one in 10) for carrying the subs around. But i could be sorely mistaken.

I have a pair of speakon backplates to install in panel 10 before installation of the panel itself. Is the best way to do that to cut a rectangular hole the size of the inlet in the backplate then seal it up with gasket foam?

Meticula wrote: The oscillating saw was absolutely unbelievable and rescued the panel perfectly.

Meticula wrote:Cut my panel 9s and 11s, as well as my 2/8 braces and 1/10 braces and installed the former. Managed to install my 9's and the 2/8 braces without a hitch. I called it a night once i had trimmed up the sides of the handles in panel 10. I figured 2 vertical handles should be ample (one in 7 one in 10) for carrying the subs around. But i could be sorely mistaken.

Go for handles on opposite edges (so that you carry it around from opposite corners - like a diamond). Having 2 handles on (or very close to) the same edge means lots of knocked knees when carrying!!! Ouch!

Meticula wrote:I have a pair of speakon backplates to install in panel 10 before installation of the panel itself. Is the best way to do that to cut a rectangular hole the size of the inlet in the backplate then seal it up with gasket foam?

Pretty much - or watch Leland's excellent video!

Thanks LC!

Im subscribed to his channel and completely overlooked it. Wow!

Well guys.. it's been absolutely ages and I don't know why I never finished off the build thread! The final stages of the build took a long time, had a lot of personal stuff going on and my finals for school. The good news is though that the subs are finished and they sound better than I ever could've imagined, or remembered! I'm about to start building my omnitops for a festival on the 8th of july, but i don't think i'll have time to write a build thread. If i do, it'll be short and sweet much unlike this one. Hopefully with a lot less mistakes and questions!

Some finished pics for you all, I was going to do something fancy with the braces but you know what, I think it looks cool enough without altering them!

That's wonderful to hear!

Good work Meticula. There's nothing as satisfying as making something that does what it does well.

I was just wondering, what's the plan for finishing these off...? Rounding over the edges, painting, v-plate, and a processor to go with the nice amp, etc. If you have all that sorted but can't get your O-tops done in time you can use any sort of tops and improve the sound a long way with auto-EQ and decent bass. Once again, good work.