BillFitzmaurice.info

Yesterday I attached the baffle and braces to the cab.



I also cut and attached panel 7 and the braces.






Tonight I cut and attached panel 8 and its braces.

The final panels have been attached.





I noticed I had the same problem as I did with my Auto Tuba. The final outside panel, in this case Panel 9 (the one at the top), ends up being off. I attached Side 2 and found that where Panels 9 and 10 join, Side 2 is about 3/16" taller than the panels. I suspect that this is the result of braces 1/7 being a little lower toward Side 2, causing the problem with Panels 5 and 9.

When I attached Side 2, I never marked the Side when I drew the panels on Side 1. What I did instead was allow my tape measure to hang from the top panel (Panel 9), marked the edge of the tape and wrote how far down I needed to drill a hole. This worked pretty good. I think I had only three holes what missed a panel, one of which was reading the tape measure wrong. I was nearly out of adhesive so I went less than heavy to glue Side 2. I don't think anywhere was less than a 1/8" bead, and extra at panel joints. I think I applied enough, considering it's self expanding so I don't expect any gaps. All that will be left is the driver chamber braces, cover, and jack.

What is the purpose of the chamber cover braces? I've cut all the braces out, but I don't seems to grasp what they do yet.

The chamber cover can flex too. We don't want any energy going into making the panels flex.

draehn wrote:The chamber cover can flex too. We don't want any energy going into making the panels flex.

Thanks!

I've run into two questions. First, I followed the directions to make 8 driver chamber braces. At the dimensions specified, I can only fit 4 of them into the cab. I have to space them 2" from the edges so the driver will fit in, this doesn't let me fit anymore. Is the all right?

The second question is how important is Premium PL for the braces inside the driver chamber? The only thing I have left to glue is the driver chamber cover braces. I'll probably go and buy another tube for this little amount left, because I also want to fill the screw holes when everything is completed.

About the chamber braces: if you were to trim the "H" so that the "B" is 1/2" less, would that work? (Area of triangle=1/2BxH) That would gain you an inch in total.
It seems that your cab is 18"? internal. Am I correct?

I would continue to use PL for confidence reasons.

The interior is 17" with an exterior of 18". Here's a picture of the interior of the driver chamber.



I also took a picture with the chamber cover clamped, the cover braces easily fit into chamber on either side of the driver.

I've forgotten how to properly wire the driver because it has two pairs of posts. I believe what I had with the THT was each wire had the ends stripped and a section mid wire stripped. I passed the wire through one post so the mid-stripped section was secured and then the end of the wire was on the other post. Does it even matter to do it like this, or is simply treating it like there was only one set of posts do the same thing? I'm using a Dayon DVC 15" 8-ohm driver. The sticker on the driver says 8-ohm + 8-ohm.

Are you able to move the chamber braces closer to the inside, and thus the ends would juuuuust clear the driver flange? This would allow the other 4 braces to be installed (to eliminate wall resonances).
The way you are suggesting is okay and will give you 4 ohm load, which, combined with acoustic impedance adds up to a higher impedance.

Reverse the other braces, putting the narrow end at the baffle.

Thanks for the feedback. I placed the other 4 braces opposite, as Bill instructed. I made sure that if I ever had to I can replace the driver without them being in the way - I hope.



Other than that, I wired the driver and closed up the cab. This thing is a beast, I'm not sure if I can get it out of the basement by myself. The only thing left to do will be to connect it to an amp and test for leaks. As long as that's not an issue, it will be fully functional.

I've moved the THT LP into my living room and I have it on end in the corner with the port facing the ceiling. It's in the rear right corner (if I'm sitting on the sofa which is against the back wall and I'm facing the TV), does it matter which way I have the port? Should Panel 8 be angled toward a particular corner, either the rear wall or side wall, or into the room?



Also, in order to move the speaker, I decided I would just gently drag it up the stairs from the basement. I just happened to find a moving box and to my luck, it's the exact size of the cab! A Medium U-Haul box is 18" x 18 1/8", so All I had to do was slide the box over the bottom of the speaker. Perfect!

You just did the big no-no of home theater speaker building............

Bringing it in the living room and hooking it up while the outside of the cab is still not finished.

You are not going to ever want to take it out for a few days and finish the outside after you have been listening to it for awhile

BTW I angles my panel eight to the backwall so I can't see it.

Thanks. I happen to like unfinished lumber, just about ask my projects are. It may get painted, but I'm in no rush. I got a new subwoofer to use!

I'm in the process of making bits and pieces for the kitchen/living area from ply, and leaving it either raw or clear finished. Cube drawers for the expedit shelves, wooden shelves for the kitchen, even serving platters and candle holders are planned from plywood.
Slowly, slowly, getting the decor to have a running theme of plywood grain... so when I finally make a TTLS and leave it unpainted, the girlfriend can't complain that it doesn't match the room!