BillFitzmaurice.info

Wait, just realized, doesn't this mean the end angles are the wrong way as well?

kekani wrote:Wait, just realized, doesn't this mean the end angles are the wrong way as well?

I'ts only the angle that is the wrong way, but as I said, I can slice off about half an inch of the angled edge at 90deg, turn it over , and glue it back on the right way round.

Enjoying your build and your honesty!

Keep up the good work...

Not a lot of progress this week as I have been getting my rehearsal space sorted out.
I managed to get the sheaths on and sealed.

Got the first of the side braces on





Trimmed and cleaned up the overhang on the sheaths.



I also got a coat of primer undercoat on the inside surfaces that are about to be hidden forever

Hi Folks, Good progress this weekend
I'll start with fixing the little mistake on the HF module where I glued the flange faces on upside down so that the angle was the wrong way round. I simply cut the edges off with a circular saw.



And glued them back on the right way round



I fabricated the compression module horn assemblies



And fitted them to the flanges





Notice that I left a ¼’ gap at the ends where I will put a little cover plate to seal the module as per an earlier discussion.

After another little error where I aligned the centre brace with the middle of the front of the cab instead of maintaining the offset, I removed the brace and (with minimal damage to the surrounding timber) and glued it back in the right position.



I then trimmed and fitted the remaining side braces



And after masking the edges got a couple of coats of undercoat sprayed on.



I am pretty happy with the finish that I'm getting with the spray gun and I find it much more satisfying than painting with a brush, which I absolutely hate

HF modules are looking good with a test fit showing no issues.



I picked up some decent speaker wire today so I now have all the components other than the Duratex.
I am still not 100% on the colour scheme but I think I might go for red horn faces with black bracing.

SimonD wrote:I was able to fit the T-nuts. I recessed the woofer spacer with a 7/8 flat blade boring bit.



Fitted the T-Nuts



And mounted the spacers (after confirming that I could actually get the drivers in when the side covers will be fitted )

It took me a while to see, but I would think there is not that much "meat" left between your T-nuts and the driver, once installed. Tighten them real fast, and you risk pulling the T-nuts through the spacer. I would rather have had the T-nut on the other side, yet another 1/2" further away from the driver, if you know what I mean. I'm not a native english speaker, so searching a bit for understandable wording here. Not sure about wording, and about my point. Others may chime in.

Other than that, great build thread, lots of pictures, always good.

Hi Anton, the T-nuts are only recessed 1mm into the back of the spacer. That leaves 11.7 mm of "meat". That is plenty! I don't intend to over-tighten them and I will put a lock washer on the cap-head screws. It would take an enormous amount of force to pull a 20mm T-nut through the timber and I hope I'm not that "ham-fisted"
I take your point of going through both pieces of timber though. I could still do that if I run a drill and tap through the centre of the T-nut and put a lock nut on the back.
Cheers S

Somewhere under all those clamps is a HF module with the first sheath being glued on to it. I think I'll make a jig to glue the others

Happy to report lots of progress this weekend

I fitted the custom cover plates on the end of the HF modules. A fairly simple task of tracing the outline directly from the module and cutting it our with the band saw.





and glueing them in.





Next came the driver mounts that I cut out with a couple of hole saws. First the centre hole



Then the outside



And stuck them on



Also got the flange brackets and dowel installed (I left the dowels un-glued untill I have painted the modules)

After two coats of undercoat/primer, the cabs got their first coat of black.



and the first of the back halves went on. I have had them pre-bent for a few weeks so didn't have any dramas with cracking or splitting. I didn't bother with nails or anything as I was able to get them fitted nicely with the tie-downs and clamps.

With regards the dreaded nacelles, I have started making a template to drill the mounting holes. The plan at this stage is to make some timber tubes by drilling out the centre of pieces 5/8 (16mm) dowel. I will drill a hole in the module sheaths and mount the timber tubes through the sheaths down to the flanges but not through the cleats. I will use 8 x ¼ Cap head screws and T-nuts for each module.



It's pretty scary doing anything to the modules at this point as they take sooooo much work to get to this stage and I don't know if I could deal with a disaster. Drilling the holes in the sheaths is the really scary part as it can all go very wrong in a very short time.
The plan is to first drill the 1/4 holes in the flanges with the template. Then make a simple jig by attaching a piece of board to the drill press, big enough for the module to be moved around under the chuck. I will drill a 1/4 hole in the centre of the board and put a little 1/4 dowel in the hole. Then, without moving the drill press base, the module can then be perfectly aligned for each hole under the chuck using the 1/4 dowel stuck into the pre-drilled holes in the flanges. That's the plan anyway, any other suggestions would be gladly accepted!

SimonD wrote:With regards the dreaded nacelles, I have started making a template to drill the mounting holes. The plan at this stage is to make some timber tubes by drilling out the centre of pieces 5/8 (16mm) dowel. I will drill a hole in the module sheaths and mount the timber tubes through the sheaths down to the flanges but not through the cleats. I will use 8 x ¼ Cap head screws and T-nuts for each module.

It's pretty scary doing anything to the modules at this point as they take sooooo much work to get to this stage and I don't know if I could deal with a disaster. Drilling the holes in the sheaths is the really scary part as it can all go very wrong in a very short time.
The plan is to first drill the 1/4 holes in the flanges with the template. Then make a simple jig by attaching a piece of board to the drill press, big enough for the module to be moved around under the chuck. I will drill a 1/4 hole in the centre of the board and put a little 1/4 dowel in the hole. Then, without moving the drill press base, the module can then be perfectly aligned for each hole under the chuck using the 1/4 dowel stuck into the pre-drilled holes in the flanges. That's the plan anyway, any other suggestions would be gladly accepted!

You know, I saw Grant do something similar with the "tubes". I didn't get it, until I needed to. My laziness got the better of me and that's why I made the cleats out of 3/4" ply. Forstner bit through them and you have just drilled your "tube".

In your situation, I wouldn't even make full size cleats - just enough for the drill to make a "tube". Cut 16 pieces, glue, drill, done.

Although, Grant's PVC came out clean.

Of course, look who's talking - the guy that did the thread on how "not" to do it. . .